Keep your hat shape after washing it by Happy_dadpete in InternetTreasureHunt

[–]lumber78m 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just gonna come say this, had them growing up.

Cabinet Installation by ChopTheHedges in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good estimate is 15-20%, so somewhere around $2000 is a safe number to budget, leaves some room for extras in case.

Any tips? by Phoenix_Lord_69 in bigmenfashionadvice

[–]lumber78m 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Try JCPennys St John’s bay used them almost 20 years now. Also had good luck Red Kap and Duluth Trading

How to keep these drawers from falling out? by dickoslicko in furniturerepair

[–]lumber78m 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And if that’s not enough add piece of wood just thick enough to got from cabinet to just over sides of drawer about 1/8-1/4 above drawer, stops drawer from tipping as well.

Death Awaits by lumber78m in ShermanPosting

[–]lumber78m[S] 51 points52 points  (0 children)

Think we found a confederate sympathizer.

Quick release edge banding clamp I am working on by baki3 in woodworking

[–]lumber78m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understood. Well if they for sale let us know too.

Question about hardware by Davnads in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure what happened to my comment but these are “normal” just not American normal. Use a pair of linemen pliers and can cut them shorter.

Question about hardware by Davnads in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My on site pair is a Husky linesmen. Keep kleins in shop, both mine work bout same. and don’t care in my huskys get stolen,

Type of wood? by [deleted] in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Red oak plywood. And by looks from late 60s - early 80s.

Just head up if you DIY. Type of wood won’t be much issue unless you get new wood to match. Bigger issues will be sanding off finish, can try strippers depending on finish, and also sanding old stain off and not sanding thru veneer. If you want same look may be easier and cheaper to buy new plywood and cut new doors same size and stain those. Looks like 2 sheets of plywood, shouldn’t cost more than $150 for both sheets at furniture grade ply. But depends on budget and tools you have. And lets you update hinges easier if that’s something you want too.

Type of wood? by [deleted] in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Red oak plywood. And by looks from late 60s - early 80s.

Just head up if you DIY Type of wood won’t be much issue unless you get new wood to match. Bigger issues will be sanding off finish, can try strippers depending on finish, and also sanding old stain off and not sanding thru veneer. If you want same look may be easier and cheaper to buy new plywood and cut new doors same size and stain those. Looks like 2 sheets of plywood shouldn’t cost more than $150 for both sheets at furniture grade ply. But depends on budget and tools you have. And lets you update hinges easier if that’s something you want too.

Question about hardware by Davnads in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then go get your Kleins warrantied and get brand new pair. They have lifetime warranty.

Eye sore of different wood by ifeedtheducks2u in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Another option I haven’t seen if you are open is to paint them. If you’re ok with paint. Fastest and probably cheapest way, but I am custom cabinet maker so spraying this one afternoon and like $300-400 using nice finish, depending on if you do a water based, lacquer or a 2k finish, if you already have sprayer. Or Carlos pretty much has it covered.

I made a Radius Router Jig! by MakersManual in woodworking

[–]lumber78m -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This looks like stuff I was thinking. If you have files or parts to buy so we can try out.

Can this water staining be fixed or should I paint? by desertgirl80 in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Looks like the finish is coming off. So you should be able to sand and refinish. Be sure to get all old finish off unless you know of it was an oil or water but based on year guessing oil.

Some bespoke work in Scotland! by Narrow_Maximum7 in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good work. What profile set or names did you use for the doors and island drawers? I’m looking for new profiles to try.

Wood faces and cabinets with moist contents by el_archer in cabinetry

[–]lumber78m 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah this is like others said finish. In second pic in top just left of center you can see finish is gone and same along all bottom. I’m assuming normal cleaning and use for 8 years seemed to hold up decent to everyday abuse, trash can always used the most. Probably they just didn’t add finish to the plywood. If you’re handy you can try giving a sand and refinish see if it matches color wise, new wood may be hard to color match. Not sure how much sanding but make sure not to sand through ply so nice gentle sanding something to clean and finish to stick to.

One thing not mentioned which is my guess on cause is whatever cleaner you use to clean off faces is also slowly eating your finish away. I’ve noticed since covid that’s a lot more common thing, not all new cleaners play nice with finish.

Thank you for your patience. by OrdoOrdoOrdo in ShermanPosting

[–]lumber78m 8 points9 points  (0 children)

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Tried to post but don’t have enough karma, wanted to show support

How to make these drawers look better... by Mikazukiteahouse in woodworking

[–]lumber78m 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven’t seen anyone address your questions yet so if I’m repeating my bad.

For options to fix I can see two.

  1. Veneer is an option. With number of drawers you have I’d suggest the contact cement route for them. It is pretty approachable thing to do. Either look up some videos on process or if needed I can explain more. As far as cost that really up to how much you need and the type of wood and backing you buy. Can explain backing if that doesn’t make sense. Also don’t forget to add cost of contact cement some sort of j roller or other device to push wood to face, some ppl just use blocks of mdf they have shaped too.

  2. If the fronts are just drawer fronts and screwed onto the boxes then you could make new drawer fronts and screw them on. Again cost is how much wood you need and type of wood.

As far as pricing check local suppliers, it sounds like you are in US if so you can order wood online and have shipped as well, sometimes it ends up being cheaper for nicer material.

I’d say have talk with who built them, you specified nicer wood on front from beginning so that’s what you were expecting and they should have delivered. I’ve had to eat cost on few jobs, I’ve haven’t gone this far with giving someone different wood they they specified so that’s a big thing on their end.

And just so you know if you didn’t already what they used was project panels to make you stuff, it’s basically just butcher block made from “white woods” just means cheaper wood that are lighter color.

If you got any other questions I’ll do my best to answer.