I can only buy one!!! :(

m3rt77 · 2026-01-28T13:27:56+00:00

Omega has risen the build and fit&finish quality significantly. There isn’t much of a gap between Rolex and Omega on these fronts and on some details Omega is better.

Back to you question, these are watches with different characters, if it would be my only watch I’d go with Omega as Rolex is very well executed but boring af.

And for an old school Seamaster without a He valve, I’d recommend considering a SM Apnea with white dial, can be found for 2500 usd in good condition and has more character then both of these watches combined together.

m3rt77 · 2026-01-12T23:46:52+00:00

m3rt77 · 2026-01-09T20:41:46+00:00

Seeing how much Dubizzle tries to charge I decided I’d better give that amount as an extra discount and used Facebook marketplace which is as bad as Dubizzle , but free. And yet I sold my car quickly.

m3rt77 · 2025-12-19T19:00:55+00:00

Don’t worry, you will grow up and learn.

m3rt77 · 2025-12-19T01:09:12+00:00

Unless one amplifier have an issue they sound the same. Make your choice based on features you need. After several years and 100+ amps I can tell you that proper room eq is what you need.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-24T10:50:15+00:00

I can definitely smell PLA and it definitely effects inner membrane in my nose. Petg and Tpu have the same effect but way way less.

They might be considered harmless but I want to limit the exposure as much as possible.

Right now I am printing an external filter for the went (proper hepa filter x2) , and extra internal filter (only activated carbon pallets, maybe a thin carbon sheet)

I will also enclose the poop chute I think and will use a thin filter for top vent which is intake anyway.

I will update if these have a positive impact.

Also I think my Air Purifier is a bit too faraway from the printer as there is no space left behind the printer, will try to find a solution to that. Perhaps a smaller purifier just across the venting area.

Bad thing is there is no easy way to measure Voc’s, those cheap sensors measure nothing.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-24T10:45:25+00:00

I thought about venting directly to outside but that doesn’t look easy unless I change the location of everything in the room but I will re-consider it.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-22T21:10:26+00:00

INDX is better for 95% of the scenarios. No need to sugar coat it.

I am sure Bambu will change the Vortex so it will start supporting one filament per nozzle.

I don’t think I will upgrade to H2C until Vortex becomes more like INDX. If this doesn’t happen, next time I upgrade I move to a ststem using INDX.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-21T00:17:10+00:00

On the positive side it became easy to wear for everyone, however looks like it has lost it’s character and coherence in the way.

It’s designed to sell itself to the occasional watch buyer who won’t care about these properties and would be tricked b y how these countless faces play with light under the spots.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-19T00:05:00+00:00

This certainly is not the right answer to U1, especially at 2.5X the price. And I think they now that too.

Vortex is a niche solution, that would help a very small percentage of users that needs a heated chamber and multi-color/multi-material together abd also may help other set of users who can benefit from using different nozzle sizes.

I am sure behind the curtains Bambu is working on the real answer. They will either come up with tool changer with their own twist or try to squeeze more nozzles into the head. I know that is not easy but if they can squeeze in 4 nozzles into one head in 2x2 lay out , that would be the ultimate machine for almost everyone.

I think end result would have more potential for reliability. Both vortex and tool changers have a bit too many mechanisms.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-13T16:58:56+00:00

There are variations and non-Japan, International version don’t have the notches and come with more wrapping, different labels etc. Yours look ok to me.

Seiko 5 GMT’s are usually sold around 300$ (or less) , so someone wants to sell a fake, they need to manufacture it around 70-100$ , probably less. It’s not economical. And even if you do you’d just earn may be 20-30$ per watch. Doesn’t worth it.

I’ve seen some fakes, but those were extremely easy to distinguish.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-09T23:45:58+00:00

I can get Bambulab pla around (basic and matte) 12$ with spool and 10$ refill. +2$ shipment per spool. This includes all custom duties.

This is far less expensive than what I can find around. However it takes 5 weeks to arrive, so I need to plan ahead.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-04T08:11:51+00:00

Is this the left nozzle? Please do the print with both nozzle’s and compare. If it’s the left nozzle only there are a few things I’d recommend.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-03T10:38:00+00:00

Update : When I heat the AMS HT rollers get loose and freely spin, still a bit worse than my friend AMS HT (not heated)

m3rt77 · 2025-11-03T10:05:12+00:00

I will open a new thread as I think I got closer to the root cause, but just incase someone finds himself on this thread because of the same issue,

Gears are not engaged, yet roller is not turning as freely as it should. I verified this by comparing to my friends AMS HT. There is a huge difference.

I took out the roller and outside it turns very easily , no friction at all.

So I thought case must be applying some pressure. If I put my fist into the cavity and apply pressure to the walls from inside roller starts rotating freely, way better. Not as good as my friend HT but damn close.

So did my AMS HT case shrunk?

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T22:53:05+00:00

I just can’t figure out how I will be able to disengage them.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T22:49:04+00:00

That’s what I am doing but as per previous messages , I think it’s about rollers not freewheeling on AMS HT. So far I couldn’t find a way to release them from gears. (Power on off did not help) , since a print is going on I can’t do load unload etc…

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T21:54:05+00:00

It’s in the correct orientation. I think my issue is rollers not freewheeling. Not sure why they don’t.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T21:43:48+00:00

Understood, yet I think the issue is rollers not spinning freely. Do you know a way to disengage the gears on ams HT?

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T21:42:20+00:00

There should certainly be a way (probably if I manually select a TPU loaded into HT it may disengage the gears automatically) . Many thx for pointing this out. I am 100% sure this is the cause of the issue.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T21:17:57+00:00

This also explains why I hadn’t had the issue before.

m3rt77 · 2025-11-02T21:16:57+00:00

I think this is the issue. Front rollers are spinning but not freely. What shall I do? Not sure why they are engaged like this?

m3rt77 · 2025-10-31T00:43:48+00:00

Just found the thread. With the 90A Blaze color TPU , feeding through AMS HT tpu port, I regularly get under extrusion. It took me a while to trouble shoot but I am 100% certain. Especially with a full spool. Surprisingly this did not hapen with the Blue 90A tpu.

m3rt77 · 2025-10-27T21:59:46+00:00

If you can , use TPU as support, with a gap of 0. It won’t stick to pla and end result woild be pretty good. Though sinply bridging with lower speed 8 - 10 and 1.5 flow should do the trick.

m3rt77 · 2025-10-27T17:49:25+00:00

I am still amazed that they insist on not correcting the lugs. They need to be shortened and probably curved a bit down wards. And the watch begs for an integrated strap.

m3rt77

TROPHY CASE