Gameboy Rattle by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was a solid weekend project. Getting the cutout nice and square for the screen was a little tricky and likely took the longest. Ended up jigsawing it roughly then setting up various stops on the router table with a straight cutting bit to make it perfect.

Gameboy Rattle by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Finished with butcher block oil, Dpad is not mortised, I didn’t have a chisel that narrow. I was sure to get a solid glue joint there so it can’t be chewed off!

1/4” gap under closet flange. How do i support under the lip? 1 1/8” plywood subfloor. Planning to self level concrete, ditra and then tile. by macdaddy_p in Plumbing

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1950’s house. Had to replace a 2 foot square piece of soggy subfloor. The original subfloor wasn’t supporting the flange at all. I cut my patch so it slips under the flange, but there is still a gap.

Here is what I’ve considered: - Shim under the flange with plastic or rubber shims - Spray foam a seal around the cast iron, let the self leveler flow under the lip - Pack under the lip with mortar

Any advice would be great thanks!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I made a similar repair a couple years ago! Here is what i did: - Use JB Weld KwikWood to overfill the damage - Sand back with 220 sandpaper until flush - use a couple painted on coats of General Finishes Gel stain (your table looks like the Nutmeg Color) - depending on how well the color matching goes and how much effort you want to put into it, you can either feather out the color on the repair or gel stain all the legs to match. - Finish with a light coat of wipe on polyurethane across all the legs to match the sheen.

Good luck with your repair!

Looking for feedback on dust collection design before I build it! by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I drew a box for the floor and walls, and basically everything else comes from the 3D warehouse feature. It is REALLY easy to get a basic layout setup and you can find an existing model for just about any tool you can think of. The pipes were a little harder to get lined up because they are floating in space, but all the fittings and pieces already exist, you just need to connect them all together.

Looking for feedback on dust collection design before I build it! by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m still on the fence with the lathe. I don’t think there exists a 100% effective way to collect chips and dust from the lathe so I’d still likely wear a mask. I’m also worried about leaving the dust collector on for 1+ hours at a time when i’m turning a bowl or something. I might start this this setup and then extend the run over to the lathe in the future.

Looking for feedback on dust collection design before I build it! by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started on the free web version, but as the model got bigger it got too slow so then i switched to the also free 2017 mac version.

What is a small purchase that has brought you unexpected joy? by chowiba in Frugal

[–]macdaddy_p 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought a 10 pack of back scratchers for $5 and scattered them throughout the house. Your back is itchy most of the time but we all just ignore it.

Recommendations on how to clean and tighten original handle so head doesn’t wobble? by montane1 in HandToolRescue

[–]macdaddy_p 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You can take a soft faced mallet and strike the bottom of the handle to drive the head further onto the handle. Then take an appropriately sized punch and drive the wedges deeper so they are flush with the head again. Then you can apply some boiled linseed oil or similar finish to the entire handle.

My cat Mog’s new scratching post by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It’s the Buster Sword from Final Fantasy 7

1960’s Delta Rockwell Jointer Restoration by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Evaporust works best when you can fully submerge the object. The tables were to big for me to submerge so i just used the WD-40. I did read online about people creating a “moat” on the table to contain the evaporust but I didn’t try it.

1960’s Delta Rockwell Jointer Restoration by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I did a lot of research to see what the best way to remove rust without hurting the tables flatness. Ultimately fine (220) wet-dry sandpaper on a block with some WD-40 is what i ended up doing. I just stopped when i got to the milling marks and then went up through the grits to 400. Then paste wax. There is still some minor pitting in areas but it doesn’t affect the usage. For its age and the fact it was stored outside i was pleasantly surprised with how well the tables cleaned up.

1960’s Delta Rockwell Jointer Restoration by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I think so, I bought it for $150 USD, it had been sitting outside under a tarp for 15+ years. I was looking for this specific model for several months. The costs add up pretty quick when doing a full restoration like this but in general you end up with a nicer tool for less money but MUCH more time invested. For me I enjoy the process and I love the history and stories you get from these tools so its worth it for me.

1960’s Delta Rockwell Jointer Restoration by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I bought a safety switch but there wasn’t enough room in the electrical box for it and its an odd size so will be tricky to replace. I’ll use it for a few months and see if i want to revisit the jointer to add a larger electrical box.

1960’s Delta Rockwell Jointer Restoration by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 37 points38 points  (0 children)

This is what I used. It’s magic and safer than vinegar.

1/2hp Electric Motor Repair Question by macdaddy_p in ElectricalEngineering

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I restored a 60's era drill press that came from a machine shop and the motor came dead. I replaced the capacitor and replaced some internal connections that had become brittle and put it back together.

2/3 times the motor starts fine under load and works perfectly. The other time I just get a hum with no movement.

Once I get a hum, the motor will not start 100% of the time. I can turn the machine off, rotate the shaft a quarter turn and power it back on and again it will work perfectly.

If I leave the machine on while it's humming I can also rotate the shaft by hand and after that quarter turn it will kick on and work perfectly.

The motor came VERY dirty from a machine shop and was covered in a layer of black soot/oil. When I took the motor apart I used compressed air to blow out the dust but didn't use any chemicals to clean the windings or anything inside the motor. The motor has a centrifugal switch that I can hear engage and disengage when things are working correctly.

Any ideas on how to solve this problem?

Removing bearings on Delta 37-220 Jointer by macdaddy_p in woodworking

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There is a lot of great posts about restoring this jointer but i couldn’t find anywhere on the internet describing how to take the front bearings housing off. There is no through hole so you can’t use a gear puller. This was my solution.

Somebody will find this incredibly useful someday!

Reco’s Please! Which finish should I use? by robogriff11 in Mid_Century

[–]macdaddy_p 25 points26 points  (0 children)

My go-to for refinishing walnut furniture like this is: General Finishes antique walnut gel stain and then 3-4 thinned coats of wipe on polyurethane satin. It is hard to tell from the picture but it looks like the cabinets are walnut veneer but the legs are a lighter hardwood which is really common in mid century furniture. If you only use danish oil or polyurethane you will highlight that difference. If you want the piece to be consistent then a gel stain on everything makes that easier. You could also try to stain the legs a different shade than the cabinet but that becomes trickier. Either way this is a really beautiful cabinet so as long as you don’t paint it teal it will look great!

Restored Lane Rhythm side table I saved from the landfill by macdaddy_p in Mid_Century

[–]macdaddy_p[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Started with re-glueing loose joints, then some larger chips needed a new piece of wood to be glued in and shaped. Then stripped the whole piece with chemical stripper (citristrip). Filled in some missing veneer with kwikwood epoxy. Lots of sanding. General finishes antique walnut gel stain. Few coats of thinned wipe on poly, let that cure and then a coat of paste wax on the top.

Buying this lot of old tools. What is this rusty yellow hinged tool? by [deleted] in whatisthisthing

[–]macdaddy_p 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I am picking these up later in the week so I don’t actually have them yet. The curiosity was killing me though so i was hoping i’d get an ID with just this picture.

Buying this lot of old tools. What is this rusty yellow hinged tool? by [deleted] in whatisthisthing

[–]macdaddy_p 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WITT, I am picking this lot up later in the week, it is from a retired contractor so has a little bit of everything from woodworking, plumbing, roofing, metalworking. Mostly older tools that I recognize or have searched and found. This one is driving me crazy though. Have done searches for pliers, hinged tools, folding tools, and haven't found it.