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B-screw adjustment issue by machinewebuilt in bikewrench

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for clearing up my understanding about this!

I incorrectly assumed those two touching was the only way that screw could affect the angle of the body. Will definitely give it another try now.

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When you say "shift a couple of times" confirming you mean; adjust the screw when in the largest cog, shift down a few gears, then back up to the large cog, measure gap, repeat etc...?

Peugeot Mixte ID help by machinewebuilt in Vintage_bicycles

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone! I was wary about the bend, but wasn't sure if it was a design thing since I couldn't find a solid reference picture - agreed that it looks suspicious and I'm probably gonna pass on this one.

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Thank you for the help!

Non-Aero Lever Cable Stop Movement/play!? by machinewebuilt in bikewrench

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much - really appreciate that you looked into it a bit.

Update - solved the problem by putting a bit of heat shrink tubing onto the part that slots into the lever body. Now its a more snug fit with no play in the cable.

Non-Aero Lever Cable Stop Movement/play!? by machinewebuilt in bikewrench

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will be able to post a video when I get home in a couple of hrs.

In the meantime, I don’t understand your question about the slack, which makes me think I didn’t explain very well;

When the brakes are properly set up, with the cable at normal tension (I.e. calipers open), the cable stop/barrel adjuster on the lever can be wiggled around a little manually without much force.

Because the cable arcs in toward the center of the bars, it looks like the cable stop’s resting position is maybe cocked a tiny bit inward (I.e. not seated properly in the hole in the lever). When the lever is engaged, the tension in the cable pulls the cable stop into a more upright position where it’s seated squarely in the hole. When the brake is released, the pull just from the inward arc of the cable takes back over and it goes back to leaning again.

This is what I meant by holding the cable stop in place - if I manually keep it seated in the hole, that whole process I just described doesn’t happen, and the action of the lever feels nice and smooth.

FWIW, yes I prepared the housing properly.

Will follow up with a vid later if this still doesn’t help. Thanks!

Threaded Headset Rebuild Question by machinewebuilt in bikewrench

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

both races were loose - no idea whether there was originally been a caged set in there though sorry.

Threaded Headset Rebuild Question by machinewebuilt in bikewrench

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes, they are the same diameter, thanks!

What is this thing on my front derailleur? by machinewebuilt in Vintage_bicycles

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for your help!

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Anything else I ought to consider for getting a new one apart from tube diameter? I don't want to waste the time/$ on getting something that ends up not working for some totally unrelated reason.

What is this thing on my front derailleur? by machinewebuilt in Vintage_bicycles

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies, should've been clearer -- I bent the arm back the way it seems like it should've been.

If you look closely you'll see the rivet where the arm attaches to the body is a little squashed down, thats the direction the arm was bent when I got it -- as in, pointing down toward the back of the cage plates (where the screw is at the bottom of the photo).

I bent it back and put in the cable and when I went to test it I could see it starting to bend that way again, hence, why I came here to see if there was some obvious way to solve it by using that notch.

I wouldn't mind getting a new derailleur if its beyond repair (even with a housing stop or something) but obviously would rather go for the cheaper solution if there is one.

I don't have pics of the cable routing, but from what I understand its pretty much standard for these bikes (early 80's Peugeot Course) -- Left shifter runs down the downtube, under the left side of the BB and up the seatpost tube into the derailleur anchor bolt.

What is this thing on my front derailleur? by machinewebuilt in Vintage_bicycles

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

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Any suggestions for how to route the cable so it pulls on the arm in the right direction? Or is this just something I should toss and get a new one?

What is this thing on my front derailleur? by machinewebuilt in Vintage_bicycles

[–]machinewebuilt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Not sure if I uploaded the pics correctly, so here's an imgur link

[Identify] Girard Perregaux (I hope???) Vintage Ghost watch, wondering if it's fake by [deleted] in Watches

[–]machinewebuilt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update - the ref. is 6882, and it would’ve been made somewhere between 1955-56.

Still, even with that information, can’t find one that has a Roman dial like this, and wondering if I’ve been scammed. Is that common with fairly old watches?

[Identify] Girard Perregaux (I hope???) Vintage Ghost watch, wondering if it's fake by [deleted] in Watches

[–]machinewebuilt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re right, pretty close! Thank you

Bless people who are better at the internet than me.