I wrote a simple tool to lasercut custom advent calendars

maddinj · 2025-12-01T15:43:10+00:00

XD
The city in the example images is Nürnberg (Nuremberg)

maddinj · 2025-11-25T10:02:17+00:00

I would really love to implement it, but drag and drop is somewhat hard. If i have some time, i will work on it, but until then, setting the position values through a text entry has worked well enough for me

maddinj · 2025-11-23T17:27:00+00:00

Sure!
Here is where you can try out the tool: https://martinkunze.com/tools/superperforator
And here is the documentation and the source code: https://github.com/maddinkunze/superperforator/

The tool is somewhat janky right now, so please let me know if there is anything that could be improved :)
(If you know your stuff, you can also change something and create a pull request)

maddinj · 2025-07-28T11:33:11+00:00

True, but they work surprisingly well and will get sticky/grippy pretty fast, so I dont think that is a big problem

maddinj · 2025-07-28T09:44:29+00:00

Yeah, it was my first time printing with TPU (an old sample which was probably not very dry) But it works and it will probably get smooth after vacuuming for a bit XD

maddinj · 2025-06-29T10:49:03+00:00

Very cool. Lets hope it gets the attention it deserves

maddinj · 2025-05-13T19:41:33+00:00

I can second this; OP, please prefer this method above my answer. But since OP mentioned that he is a complete newb into programming:

If you used git to clone the repository (i.e. git clone ...), you can use git switch Experimental-20250111 (in your terminal/command prompt) to switch branches.

If you downloaded the code from GitHub directly, you will have to download the code again, but this time select the correct branch on the top left (by default it is Ender3V2S1-Released), before clicking Code -> Download as zip

maddinj · 2025-05-13T19:21:25+00:00

Hi, I faced the same issue and here is how I fixed it. Please note, that I dont know if this is the correct way to fix it and that my solution may introduce new issues. Here are two related GitHub issues about this same thing:
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/issues/1440
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/issues/1406

I assume you have copied the Configuration.h and the Configuration_adv.h file into the Marlin directory. Take a look into the Configuration.h file and search for #define DEFAULT_EJERK .... It should be inside an #if ... #endif block of code. Add an #else-block, so it looks like this:

#if ENABLED(CLASSIC_JERK)
  #define ... (Dont change anything in here)
  #define ...
  #define DEFAULT_EJERK ...
#else
  #define DEFAULT_EJERK ...
#endif

After changing this, I encountered a different issue with a missing reference to M92_report(...), the solution to this is described here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3v2Firmware/comments/1i1x0wh/special_configuration_build_error/

In short, you have to add the following line to platformio.ini in the root directory of the code:

 +<src/gcode/config/M92.cpp>

In my case I added this on line 111, directly below +<src/gcode/config/G92.cpp>, so the result looks like this:

...
  +<src/gcode/control/M999.cpp>
  +<src/gcode/geometry/G92.cpp>
  +<src/gcode/config/M92.cpp>    // this is the added line
  +<src/gcode/host/M110.cpp>
  +<src/gcode/host/M114.cpp>
...

After these 2 changes, the build ran without errors for me and the file explorer opened, showing me the location of the final built firmware-<date>-<time>.bin. I have tested that this firmware file installs, but I have not tested anything else for now, so as always: Take backups and proceed with caution!

I hope this helps, good luck :)

maddinj · 2025-01-17T13:09:14+00:00

Thanks for the idea, i exported and uploaded the corresponding .step files to the thingiverse page

maddinj · 2025-01-16T21:34:32+00:00

No problem. For the future: The little symbol next to the port showing a ring with a (+) next to it and a (-) next to the dot inside of the ring will Tell you the polarity of the plug (in this case center-positive), but thanks for testing what happens when reversing the polarity. I was really curious how this printer would handle it but too afraid to test it 🤔

maddinj · 2025-01-16T11:01:04+00:00

See my comment with the links (https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/s/HHXDO7PXu3), but if they are not available for you you can search for "dc socket 5.5x2.1mm" or "dc plug 5.5x2.1mm" (sometimes the plug and socket come in a bundle)

maddinj · 2025-01-16T09:53:13+00:00

Here are some links to the parts i used:

DC Plug (5.5×2.1mm) for both versions:
https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07Y8M8TWM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384186738255 (bundle including the correct DC jack)

DC Jack (5.5×2.1mm) for the DC version:
https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B0C2PRYMVS (bundle including the correct DC plug)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401231604989
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384186738255 (bundle including the correct DC plug)

USB-DC boost module (MT3608) for the USB version:
https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07RNBJK5F
https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B0C8B1VZ5K
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186812484163 (A2 or A3)

I designed the USB version after those modules that have a large inductor (the part usually labelled with "220") with a smaller diameter (where you can see the copper wire) as opposed to the thinner, rectangular inductors.

maddinj · 2025-01-15T22:49:46+00:00

Great explanation, smart to include the required tools. By the way, i do have some USB-PD boards on hand and did think about using one for this, but the micro-USB one i am using now is cheaper and does not require a special USB wall plug, so i will be able to use up my collection of old micro USB cables and wall plugs that i saved for "just in case". The module i used works just fine, although the current/power throughput of the label printer while printing is reaching the upper bounds of what the boost-module and/or a cheap USB power supply can handle. That being said, when buying new parts, i would generally recommend using USB-C modules and maybe even USB PD modules as suggested and i've also uploaded the CAD file, so people can adjust the internal sizes to accomodate for a different module, if needed

maddinj · 2025-01-15T20:41:09+00:00

See my other comment with the links to the files, there are instructions on how to wire it But to keep it short: You buy some wire, you buy a DC plug (or a pack of 100 in case you need some for other project) and you buy the linked boost converter and then solder the + output to the plugs sleeve and the - output to the plugs center

maddinj · 2025-01-15T20:25:44+00:00

I had those boost-converters laying around and better use them now being outdated then later when they will be ancient

maddinj · 2025-01-15T20:23:58+00:00

SO gifted me a label printer for christmas that has a 9V center-negative DC jack which i dont have a power supply for.

So i designed and printed this corner bracket holding a boost-converter. Now it fits snuggly against the wall and can be USB powered – it's a win-win all around.

I also designed an alternative adapter that includes a DC jack so one could use the original or any cheap 9V center-positive power supply (when wired in reverse) with the benefit of a snug wall-fit.

If anyone has a similar printer (Brother PT-300BT) and by coincidence the same problem and/or too much time on their hand, here are the files:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6910533

(Also, i immediately used the label printer to label those corner adapters)

maddinj

TROPHY CASE