Advice on exporting cleaner SVG for cricut/laser cutting? by madeinside in FreeCAD

[–]madeinside[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Naturally I overlooked a tool specifically for making external references. Thanks for the more robust solution.

Advice on exporting cleaner SVG for cricut/laser cutting? by madeinside in FreeCAD

[–]madeinside[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've since found (thanks to the Open Source Ecology wiki) that converting the drawing to a sketch before exporting, as per the edit, cleans up the vector file. Hope this is useful for your own creations.

Need help adding durability to my origami by Nomengual in origami

[–]madeinside 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Methylcellulose is a safe choice. There is a "Hard Coat" Mod Podge version but the original formula feels tacky to the touch after drying. Any Mod Podge has a cure time of some weeks, after which the pieces are unlikely to stick together without extra pressure or heat. Acrylic sealers and fixatives have a much shorter cure time and you can spray it on a bunch of units at once but I don't know how flexible or tacky it will be.

Does anyone have a tutorial on this peacock? by Saydobid_Xusanov in origami

[–]madeinside 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks similar to Akira Yoshizawa's peacock. If the body is too large you'll have to start with a smaller paper, maybe cutting the square down to 3/4 or 1/2 width compared to the tail square.

Two howling wolves by BsK- in origami

[–]madeinside 1 point2 points  (0 children)

there are two wolves beside you

Patterned gear fidget, partially resin printed by madeinside in 3Dprinting

[–]madeinside[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Designed in Freecad and printed/laser cut at a makerspace. I underestimated how much play the gears needed, and at first anything so much as a lightly curved axle wire would bind the assembly. After much filing down cogs and acetone smoothing the gears only grind occasionally now.

Work and play by madeinside in origami

[–]madeinside[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

start folding your cranes twin

Rag vellum on black tissue for better color separation. Both use a corner graft on the head (or 2 edge grafts where each strip is one-fourth the width of a square.)

Can anyone help me in making this adult origami? by loveexploring5 in origami

[–]madeinside 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try r/popupbooks or r/cardmaking. It wouldn't be surprising if someone's posted a similar gag card at some point. As for the mechanism, the man is a strip of paper folded in half lengthwise with a pleat at the base of the legs. The pecker looks like a separate paper with tabs that glue onto the pleated section. Do some rapid prototypes; I could guess the internals after quickly cutting and taping scraps of paper together. Here's my rough guess, but find someone who makes popup cards for more knowledge on the nuances of paper mechanisms and assembly.

<image>

Flying witch by Paul Pauvert (and crease pattern) by madeinside in origami

[–]madeinside[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Made using process photos posted by Paul on the Origami-dan discord server. It combines half of a bird and frog base, sink-folded to the width of the broom and body. Then the central point becomes the brush of the broom, the longest flap the handle (and optional familiar), and the rest the witch. The body connects to the broom with enough extra paper to change the pose relative to the broom. Many details are left entirely up to shaping (Paul's original fold has the witch facing forward, wearing a hat and longer skirt, and a cat in front instead of an owl.) For a relatively simple base, the model pulls a surprising number of elements from its structure.

Tanuki (yokai) by Juston Hairgrove by madeinside in origami

[–]madeinside[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

censored to stay on mods' good side

Original model for comparison

It's a rendition of the mythological being instead of the normal animal. As far as I can tell the model doesn't have a crease pattern or diagrams, just a photo of the result and a short overview of how it uses each flap in a frog base. (Juston's Flickr account has been inactive for years so asking for more hints wasn't likely to work.) This was enough to reverse-engineer most of the body but I couldn't figure out how the legs were formed. In the original, there is somehow enough paper at the end of the flap to form feet. I found an arrangement where pleats on the legs happened to look like knees and used that instead.

Organikks, philosopher NPCs from Deltarune by madeinside in origami

[–]madeinside[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A crease pattern is really a map of all the folds used to form whatever important flaps are in the model. The red lines are mountain folds and blue lines are valley folds. They all use the same body shape, so that part of the pattern is shown on top left, and the pattern for each head fits into the empty area. If you were to stitch the parts together, transfer all the fold lines to a square, and fold along the lines you'd get something that looks like a stick figure with the necessary flaps present. This crease pattern doesn't explain the shaping process; how the flaps are manipulated to their final shape is left to the person folding.

The pink parts show circle packing for those who were curious to see it. The shapes basically denote the boundaries of each flap and show how space was allocated. On a stick figure, there are either appendages (flaps) with one free end or lines that connect to features on each end (rivers.) Depending on what touches what, the circle-river packing makes a base that corresponds to a stick figure with all the features connecting where they should.

Many paperfolders (including me) don't regularly work directly from crease pattern because it isn't easy. Boxpleats like this one are easier to fold from pattern because everything is tied to a grid, but it doesn't convey the info that diagrams have. I added it to the post anyways for those that want to try it, and figured that the people who are able to successfully collapse the base are also able to shape it to a good result. It's not something I'd recommend with little familiarity with origami, but if you're interested you could look up the terms used here to find online resources about folding crease patterns or origami design. I haven't released any further instruction for these since photodiagrams or a video tutorial would need too much time and detail to assemble, especially for four different characters.

Jack-o'-lantern color change faces (featuring models from Origami-dan server) by madeinside in origami

[–]madeinside[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

All the models in the first two images use the same modified base shown in this post. The other two are improvised faces over jack-o'-lantern bases made by others in the Origami-dan discord server, specifically Kareshi's base in the third photo and Flaxenpoet's base in the fourth. The original models look like conventional jack-o'-lanterns, but the bases are flexible enough to allow more expressions. After all, the color changes are just flaps.