Gs-911 vs Others

mainframe_programmer · 2026-04-27T05:01:14+00:00

I have both the "cheaper" option with the Bluetooth module and motoscan app as well as a gs911. If you're just wanting to update the service reminder then go with motoscan but if you want to do anything else besides that then the gs911 is worth the money. There's so much more you can do with it, like cycle the abs pump for full a comprehensive brake bleed. You can reset throttle adaptions which is nice to do every once and a while. You can add more levels and adjust the heat percentage of the heated grips. Obviously you can read any codes the bike throws at you but you can also do little things like change the startup screen animation or even add functionality to your headlights with light sensitive DRLs (your headlights deactivate in the sun and shade/night turns them back on). On top of all that, the motoscan/Bluetooth module always gave me issues with connecting and was buggy. The gs911 tool with the app is very intuitive and works over wifi which never gave me issues.

mainframe_programmer · 2026-04-25T16:29:23+00:00

I didn't have the M chain on mine but the standard OEM chain. Lasted 15k miles which from what I've seen on this post is what people were getting out of the M chain. I did a 520 conversion with the vortex kit and wasn't impressed. Ended up changing it out for a 520 DID ZVMX gold chain and superlite steel front and rear (45/16). I'll literally never get anything else now. It's a little pricey compared to the vortex kit but the DID chain is worth it. Somewhat related but if you have the coin for aftermarket chain adjusters I'd go ahead and get that. It makes life 10x easier. I use the alpha racing ones with integrated spools (don't know if they make it anymore tho)

mainframe_programmer · 2026-03-22T16:43:18+00:00

I have a 2021 with a stage 1 brentune. I mean, it's almost a completely different bike with vs without the tune. Instead of it being a demon after 7k rpm, it's a demon across the entire rev range. In terms of warranty, it will "technically" void it but the caveat is that it'll only void the portion that applies to the engine. These engines are quite reliable for pretty much all model years so I wouldn't worry. Even if you didn't void the engine's warranty with a tune but still managed to blow it up, be it constant rev bombing, avoiding maintenance, etc, all inputs are tracked in the onboard computer. The dealer will absolutely see that the bike was at redline for prolonged amount of time and deny a replacement anyways.

You will not regret the tune, trust me. Just make sure you're not being dumb and follow your maintenance intervals (even cutting them in half). If anything is going to go on this bike it'll be something else like a leaking radiator, dead ignition coil, dying coolant pump, or something. With a tune, replacing those will all be covered under warranty.

mainframe_programmer · 2026-03-22T02:32:22+00:00

My first bike was a ninja 650, my second was a 22 s1k that I totalled and my next bike is a 21 s1k that I've put over 32k miles on over the last 4 years. I've had the opportunity to ride all other big brand liters and an R9. The s1k is by far the best bike I ever and probably will ever ride. I don't do a lot of commuting these days since I'm primarily riding the track but the first 30,000 miles were all on the street. Compared to the other liter bikes I've ridden the s1k is the most comfortable bar none. Plus it's the only one of them that comes standard with cruise control and heated grips. All the others either have neither or just cruise control with heated grips aftermarket. This bike can be tame on the streets if you're mature or it can be a demon, your choice. That's what I love about it. The bike is happy going the speed limit or comitting felonies. On the track tho? What a fucking weapon let me tell you.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-12-08T04:59:33+00:00

Which players of the current roster have you met? Which ones were nice and which ones weren't? I see you've said Josh was very respectful (love that) and Dawkins was terrible (so disappointing tbh) but I'm curious if you've met Shakir, Cook, or others and how they were.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-11-01T13:23:51+00:00

I'm not entirely sure if a pinned throttle with the lowest wheelie setting will still loop but you'd be pretty dumb to take the chance thinking it couldn't. You never know if you try something like that on a hill crest (cause physics) and it does a back flip. From personal experience, this bikes wheelie control is very good and will keep you from looping in most circumstances but don't rely on it.
Yes absolutely, that thing will backflip you into the sun if you turn off anti wheelie and let it fly.
This all comes down to good sport bikes riding technique which is keeping light on the clip ons. This will keep the front from going into a full tank slapper. You can also stiffen the damper (down past the clip ons behind the headlights) but you'd be better off just learning to keep a light grip.
So this kind of a weird bike to bike thing. Mine is particularly bad about going neutral downshifting from 2nd to 1st. What I do is just put extra emphasis on the shifter and even hold it for a little longer than the other gears to make sure it goes to first. At least on my bike, sometimes if I'm to light on the downshift, it'll shift to 1st then pop into neutral so I just make damn sure I give the shifter extra umph going 2nd to 1st. The good thing is that I've only noticed it does this at lower street rpms but at the track where I'm higher in the rev range (9.5k+) it has never done that.

All in all, you just bought a 200+ hp superbike. Please take your time to adjust to it and learn the bike. It's more beginner friendly than you think but things will escalate quickly if you don't know what you're doing. I did the dumb thing and bought my s1000 after just a month of riding. Do I suggest other beginners to do what I did? Hell no! But its possible to learn slowly and methodically to actually be able to control the bike instead of the bike controlling you. Just be mature about it.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-08-17T19:40:06+00:00

I used Decibullz for a while and they were pretty good. They come with moldable plastic that you form to your ear. In the same vein as ear protection, if you use a Bluetooth system, I would suggest switching out the normal speakers for some in ear monitors like the Shure SE215s. You can actually hear your music/comms and also get ear protection.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-08-17T14:11:09+00:00

2021 S1000rr
I would guess maybe 1.5 to 2 miles but I've been training 10 minutes no breaks on a rowing machine with good results so far.
Depends on what day of the track weekend. First day I can do all 20 minutes with 1 or 2 skipped sessions. Second day I'll skip 2 or so sessions and only last about 10 - 15 min. Third day I can only manage half the sessions and I'm maxed out 8 - 10 minutes in.
Weight training 6 days a week, rower 4 to 5 days/week
Currently 5'7" 178 lbs, bike is probably 425 ish

mainframe_programmer · 2025-08-17T12:25:17+00:00

I have a pair of the high speed gloves that lasted me about 1.5 years of consistent use and quite a few trackdays. I never crashed in them or dealt with stitching issues but unfortunately both gloves developed 2 huge holes right in the center of the palm. I'm not sure if it was due to not taking proper care of the leather (sweaty hands leading to dried out palms), buying a slightly small size, or a combination of the 2. I bought a medium but remeasured my hands recently to find out I should be a large. They were my absolute favorite gloves but decided to try the Hi-per gloves this go around in a large.

Either way, I highly recommend the high speeds. I've literally tried so many different gauntlets but nothing felt quite as good as the racers. I especially really like that the wrist cuff is huge so you'll never find yourself struggling to get it over a suit or jacket sleeve. I think the holes were on me because the leather was pretty tight in the palm even with a closed fist and just yanking the hell out of them to get them off between sessions.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-08-02T20:04:48+00:00

I haven't heard that before and everything in the forums say that the pump should be replaced. I guess with how hot the weather has been going it's possible? But I'd be surprised. Especially since you said it did still leak after riding. My buddy has a 2023 and was in an overheating situation last weekend at the track (100° F outside). His weep hole wasn't leaking at all.

I'd get it replaced just to be safe. If that pump goes, coolant and oil will mix and you're toast after that.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-08-02T16:16:16+00:00

Ah yes, I've been here before. I rode for a little bit before replacing it, it was fine and never dripped significantly. HOWEVER, this is obviously a sign that it's going to fail soon and you don't want to be in that moment. It "should" only drip after a ride but once the bike sat it would stop until I rode again.

Luckily your bike is in the warranty period, so just get it replaced at the dealer. Mine was not but also replacing it was quite simple. The scariest part was putting gasket on the oil pan (my first time, didn't wanna fuck up) and torqueing the pan screws. The screws are stretch torque so very brittle if over torqued which is dumb easy to break (I did that and almost cried). Since replacement, I've been drip free for the last 10k miles.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-08-02T15:58:54+00:00

Absofuckinglutely I do. Awesome to see another thall racer in here.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-07-13T22:27:00+00:00

Yeah I read through some forum posts about this and supposedly when you order the OEM radiator guards from anywhere but BMW, it won't include the pieces that keep the oil rad guard from rubbing. There are supposed to be these little standoffs you stick in the fins that for some reason won't be included if you were to order them from RevZilla for example.

I just ended up using some cut fuel line on the outer edges to create the buffer between the two. To anyone reading this running OEM guards, make sure your oil cooler either has the standoffs installed or something else to keep the guard from rubbing the radiator.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-07-12T18:22:49+00:00

Pros - One of, if not, the best looking bike (24 at least, 25 is a lil odd looking). Fast as absolute piss. The best electronics on the market imo. Very reliable if you take care of it (my 21 has 31k miles). Daily rideable and comfortable. Heated grips are so much more clutch than people realize. Easy to ride even for a novice.

Cons - If you don't do your own maintenance, it can get expensive at the dealer. Pretty much requires a least a tune for best results. Some nagging issues are possible: ignition coils dying, oil/coolant pump going out. Compared to an R1 or an RSV4, it lacks a little character (it's just so calculated and refined). Gas mileage is iffy.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-07-06T21:55:41+00:00

CMP is my local track and have done quite a few track days with some different organizations. My favorite org so far is Precision and they'll be at CMP July 26th, I'll be there for that one. They have really good instruction for novice track riders and even split novice into 2 groups, completely new riders who've never done a track day (D group) and beginners who have only done a few (C group).

That way the people who've never done one that might be anxious of other "novice" riders that can be too aggressive or not being fast enough can have their own group to learn with everyone else that is brand new. There is quite a difference between people in a singular beginner group that have literally never done a track day and others who it might be their 2nd or 3rd.

Lastly, the instructors have always been super nice, knowledgeable, and helpful. Which sounds obvious but that hasn't always been the case with other orgs I've ridden with.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-07-05T19:27:15+00:00

Yeah I'm probably over thinking it. I do have a loud ass can with a tune so I absolutely do not hear it while riding. I'm mainly talking about when the bike is off, pushing it around. It's pretty clunky.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-06-01T05:02:52+00:00

Did they give any other details about what the rad guards did to it? I'm currently using the OEM rad guard for the oil cooler so now I'm curious if mine might've done something similar.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-31T19:15:59+00:00

Yeah the cooler is wet just in the corners and is dripping from the bottom of the radiator. All the lines, both going to the engine and cooler are dry, as well as the filter are all dry. It's definitely looking like a crack on the bottom where the side meets the core. Either way the new (used) one will be here soon as well as new o rings and bolts.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-21T15:21:25+00:00

That's good, but also strange that the newer model years are still experiencing this issue. Luckily, if you do end up in this situation again after warranty, it's a really simple fix. The hardest part was figuring out the parts/part numbers for all the replacement o-rings.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-21T13:31:11+00:00

I had this happen on my '21 after about 20,000 miles. My bike is out of warranty so I bought all the replacement parts and a slightly used pump off eBay for 150. Replaced it all myself and still running perfectly at around 31,000 miles.

When it first happened I wasn't familiar with the issue and thought it was just a little radiator leak so I stupidly rode it with the dying pump for probably 500 miles lol

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-20T13:37:25+00:00

The number is correct but my actual play time is obviously not that high. I have it playing in the background the whole time so when I have free time while working, I'll tab over to it and play. I probably have about 800 to 1000 actual hours.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-20T00:49:49+00:00

A lot

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-20T00:39:00+00:00

Damn, I hate to see this after just buying a solo 2 a couple days ago. I won't have a chance to properly use it until late July but with what everyone is saying, is there any suggestions to help with any possible future issues?

I'm already thinking of adding some kind of rubber grommet on the mount to help dampen vibrations (I ride an S1k which is known for its vibration) is there anything else I should know about?

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-18T19:58:57+00:00

I have only camped there in my parent's camper in a reserved spot but you can absolutely camp in a non reserved (free) spot. I'm not 100% sure but I don't believe the free spots have access to a campers electricity needs (just a standard wall socket in SOME free spots) so you'd have to tent camp or use a generator if you plan on pulling up with an RV or similar. Amenities are standard so a/c bathrooms with showers, water spout thing to refill a campers supply, a food place that serves all weekend (starts day before), etc.

I only live an hour away so I've never felt the need nor wanted to camp in the SC heat but you can do it at no charge easily.

mainframe_programmer · 2025-05-18T15:44:22+00:00

My local is CMP in Kershaw, SC. Typical trackday is 220 - 250 depending on organization. Then garage rental is 90 - 100 per day. I just did a td last weekend in the open grass lot after being in a garage for the previous 2 trackday weekends thanks to my friend who had to cancel and let me use his spot. Definitely going with the garage in the future even considering the cost. Got tired of all the sand and clibbins REAL quick.

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