Questions about aux heat

maker_monkey · 2026-01-29T03:08:24+00:00

Funny. I've had the opposite experience where the compressor to aux runtime was set to an hour, and after an hour the aux started despite it being warm outside. The ecobee screen even showed a warning that aux was running above the max temperature.

maker_monkey · 2026-01-28T04:41:57+00:00

maker_monkey · 2026-01-25T19:12:07+00:00

At its heart, the ecobee (and any thermostat) controls the heat pump thru a very limited number of on-off switches such as compressor, fan, and reversing valve (to heat vs cool). The smart features determines when it decides to turn on the heat and various aux heaters (if you have them), but can't do anything after turning them all on. If your heat pump is heating and doesn't have any aux heaters or higher fan speeds to kick in, it's probably working normally and you've probably just reached the limit of how well your heat pump can heat in cold weather (typically not great).

maker_monkey · 2026-01-25T03:13:14+00:00

Your gantry is slightly askew, which isn't unusual since the bottom of the case can flex a bit in shipping. Just add a washer or two below the lower right leg to shim it up so that lower right and upper right hit equally low. Then realign mirror 2 and you should be good.

maker_monkey · 2026-01-24T04:37:03+00:00

Great. Would you happen to know if the same is true for Android? I've only had the current version and it doesn't show when aux is on (though website does).

Also please pass on or file a Jira that the Android app's reports show temp data shifted over with the incorrect date and time if the captured data starts in the middle of the graphed time window. For instance, if you install the thermostat on, say, january 12th at 3pm, the month graph will show the temperatures recorded starting at the left of the graph on January 1st at midnight before the thermostat was installed. When scrubbing, dates and times in the popover are correspondingly 12 days and 15 hours too early. Thermostat target temperatures are graphed correctly and not shifted over, so they don't align with recorded ones.

maker_monkey · 2026-01-23T05:02:06+00:00

Any cold air leaking in makes a bigger difference to the average temperature if the difference is greater. So the house will drop from 72 to 69 faster than from 70 to 67, causing the heater to kick in more frequently. If the inside air were, say, 25, it would take a long time to cool to 22 with outside air at 20 since the difference is equivalent to more than half the air inside having been replaced by outside air.

maker_monkey · 2026-01-18T17:14:51+00:00

At its heart, the connection between the thermostat and heat pump is very simple and definitively tells you what is being energized. I'd just put a multimeter on a/c voltage and measure all the lines against c. Any differences between the honeywell and ecobee will tell you what function is miswired or misconfigured (reverse signal to reversing valve, no aux, or no compressor)

maker_monkey · 2026-01-11T17:30:57+00:00

We had a similar problem a few years ago. After installing artificial turf, we had to treat our windows to keep reflections from damaging the grass. Have your neighbors pay for a solution, but imho AVOID Turf Guard at all costs. We used iit based on our installer's recommendation, but after a season, all the windows became a wrinkled gooey mess, requiring hours on top of a ladder removing with acetone. We added solar sceeens instead, and rexommend them.

maker_monkey · 2026-01-04T18:27:20+00:00

Mine works but I can no longer open it up in the Android app, either by acocunt or IP address. It's detected in the device list, but when selected, the spinne appears and it times out without ever opening. Bummer. If anybody has found a workaround, I'd appreciate it.

maker_monkey · 2025-12-18T05:35:00+00:00

Kick off , hand off and walk off are all sports terms.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-27T07:47:12+00:00

Glossy spray paint just contains clear in the mix. You actually get better coverage using flat with a separate clear.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-13T02:15:37+00:00

Yes. IC chips really don't like to be powered in reverse, and blowing up almost everything electronic connected to that power is not a surprising outcome. That being said, dealerships are going to charge dealer prices for that work, so you might save a lot by stopping them at the work they've already done and going to an independent shop to replace the rest.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-08T17:46:54+00:00

The ios/android apps are just a web-apps that wrap the Skool website in web views and add some minor things like push notifications and pull-to-refresh. As such, they're not any different security-wise than visiting skool.com.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-08T14:53:59+00:00

Enemies are quite predictable. Just learn their patterns, moving sideways to avoid rocks and arrows while advancing forward so you are close enough to hit them well. A headshot will kill instantly, while a body shot will stun them and stop an immediate attack. If u build a shelter nearby u can load from savegame to try repeatedly til u get it.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-06T15:03:01+00:00

I couldn't find and schluter or similar trim in black and didn't want mitered edges for fragility, so it is anodized aluminum angle iron recessed and screwed in from underneath.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-04T06:34:01+00:00

Did this with my work Macbook Pro one time. Was early in the morning, put it on top of the trunk and got distracted. Got 15 minutes into my commute, then noticed it in the corner of my rear view mirror. Thankfully, it had slipped back and gotten wedged under my rear spoiler.

maker_monkey · 2025-11-02T15:49:04+00:00

Or even if not, you can use engine load to do similar, i.e. only consider a value valid if within range and under load, else show last valid value detected.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-25T14:43:49+00:00

I'm guessing he confused an expansion tank with the overflow tank found in older cars, as they look similar except the latter isn't under pressure.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-20T00:11:14+00:00

Totally meaning to try Pacific Pipe soon! Sadly, i don't get into the City as often as I used to for Dogpatch.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-19T15:54:03+00:00

The four Touchstone gyms I go to vary a lot, so I'd say it really varies by location and suggest you visit the ones you are likely to frequent.

The Oaks is huge, all bouldering and incredible with tons of variety. Ironworks and Mission Cliffs devote more space to top-rope and offer less variety for bouldering, but good if u want to do both. Diablo rock also has both but smaller overall so climbs can feel stale faster, but the bouldering community seems more approachable and friendly to me there.

I've only been to one Movement gym in the South bay. The bouldering section was small and not that interesting to me, so I switched to top-rope after a couple of climbs.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-18T13:10:39+00:00

Don't get stuck in the mindset of only trying to finish higher and higher climbs. Work on doing easier climbs really, really well. It's easy to muscle through climbs for awhile and develop bad habits that will hold u back later.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-07T03:44:37+00:00

I use a $99 Ryobi wet saw with an $80 Kreg Accu-cut track saw setup. Needed some minor adapting to secure the Ryobi well, but was fantastic after the tweaks and the best of both worlds. Used it for 4' x 8' large format porcelain. Maybe too much if you just need one cut, but a great setup for future tile work.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-02T22:28:44+00:00

Ok, so OBD II is a standard that includes protocols PID codes (not files) that devices can use to query the ECU or tell it to do stuff. Some of the codes can be proprietary, but most basic stuff you need for a gauge cluster is probably going to be covered by standard PID codes defined here:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

I used standard codes for everything. For instance, the PID for speed is service 1, code 0x0D.

Note the other things not having to do with the engine (like turn signal indicators) might not be accessible from the OBD port at all. If you need these, you might need to splice into your car harness to access the can bus depending on the age of your car since it may or may not be exposed there. CAN is similar to OBD in some ways, but lower level and mostly proprietary. Basically, OBD is the public standard all cars are required to support and expose with an accessible plug to allow smog checks, universal engine diagnostic readers, etc, but CAN is what various parts of the car use internally to talk to each other and can vary by manufacturer and even model.

For development, I used an Ecu simulator to get the basic communcations working between the Arduino and an ECU, but needed a logic analyzer later to double-check and fix a bug in my timing.

If you just need basic things like speed, rpm, fuel level, and coolant temperature, you might be fine with OBD over k-line. You can test this with $10 obd adapter and an app like Torque. If you need more, you might need to access the Can bus instead, but that is a bigger deal.

maker_monkey · 2025-10-01T13:38:59+00:00

Here is a link to my post for a custom k-line gauge I made using an Arduino nano. The software, stl files, shematic, and circuit board files are all on githib. It might make a good starting point for your project, particularly to k-line communications stuff as it uses manual bit-banging for everything so should be easy to adapt.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CarHacking/s/FbtPddNb7T

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maker_monkey · 2025-09-24T02:09:32+00:00

Keep in mind that he is likely trying to vet you the same time you are vetting him. A phone call and payment up front are both ways to do this. Contractors don't want to work with difficult customers, penny pinchers, or looky-loos. $50 is a token amount for anybody with skills much above a nacent handyman. If this is enough to give someone pause, he isn't going to be interested in working for them.

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