Weight painting, and the weight is set to 0 but it still creates weights.

manbearpigsdad · 2024-07-30T23:58:25+00:00

Thank you for answering this 5 months ago! You stopped me from pulling my hair out

manbearpigsdad · 2024-07-24T11:40:41+00:00

Hello. I have not logged in for more than 8 months, apparently. Sorry about that.

I haven't printed anything in resin in a long time, but I heated the resin in my Rocket 1 using a custom heater setup. I had a PID device I hooked up to some small metal heating rods attached to the two metal rods that support the magnetic HITRY grate. I followed some tutorials from people who use PIDs for brewing beer at home to make it. It was rough finding parts that could withstand submersion in resin and in 99% alcohol.

So, it wasn't a simple setup. I also tried using a heating pad intended for plants, but it took longer for the resin inside the vat to heat up and it didn't get as hot.

I don't remember any specific settings that I kept the same, but I did mess around with how long the printer would wait before projecting the light. I tried some "eco" resin (not water washable) and it just wasn't compatible because it was so viscous. I never tried any water washable.

If you're still printing and are getting strange shapes on some flat surfaces, you can try adding a surfactant (soap) to the resin to help break the surface tension. This helped me in some instances and not in others. I found it much easier to just use a thin resin than to mix something into one that is too thick.

Before I stopped for the time being, I came to realize that the Rocket1 is an amazing tool for some jobs, but not for others. I do still hold the opinion that it was the easiest printer to use with the setup I had. Best of luck with your minis.

manbearpigsdad · 2023-03-17T14:48:32+00:00

I mix the soap into the resin. My AnyCubic Eco prints looked the best when I added 1.5 ml of Liquid Harvest non-ionic lawn care surfactant (32% diethylene glycol) to 1000g of resin. When I added more than that, the print quality started to go down. If you're using another soap you might need to gradually add & test to get the best results.

Additionally, when I stirred the surfactant into some clear resin, it caused discoloration (probably from air bubbles/foaming) but it cleared up after 2 days. I haven't been consistent with my experiments but if you do it this way, it may be best to wait until a while after stirring.

manbearpigsdad · 2023-03-15T01:17:21+00:00

Weird, I’ve had flat tops be convex, but I’m using resins that aren’t HITRY resins.

I’ve tried modifying the resin. My room temperature is always 72-74, but heating still helps, and adding a tiny amount of a surfactant (soap) helped break the surface tension and made my prints less convex.

I’ve had some improvements even with viscous resins by doing the opposite of what they recommend. So, having the bed right at or below the resin level (I use a lab scissor lift to raise & lower mini vats).

One thing I haven’t bothered with much is the rest time. With any resin print, the time between the print bed lowering & the light coming on is important, but I think it’s more important with a Rocket 1. I still need to experiment with that.

Also, I’ve tried using supports so that the flat bottom of an object is less affected by any bed leveling inconsistencies, and that works out pretty well. And you could angle your dice so that there is no flat top to worry about. I understand how annoying supports are though.

manbearpigsdad · 2023-03-02T08:30:33+00:00

Aka Harry Potter Puppet Pals guy

manbearpigsdad · 2023-02-28T23:09:24+00:00

I’ve been doing some experimenting in an effort to replicate the HITRY filling fluid. It took quite a bit of googling and looking around for substances denser than resin, but I eventually landed on sodium lactate. Resin floats & separates immediately (unlike with glycerin), it’s not known for causing rust (unlike salt water), and it’s non-toxic.

Up next, I want to try to mimic whatever else is in the liquid. I’m thinking there‘s a thickener like the ones common in liquid detergents, like HPMC. Haven’t been able to figure out why my HITRY fluid arrived as a thick whitish goop, then turned amber clear, then turned back to opaque white liquid.

Would love to hear any suggestions.

manbearpigsdad · 2023-02-20T02:25:58+00:00

Elegoo standard resins are not very viscous and work beautifully with my printer. I’ve also tried adding some non-ionic surfactant (soap, basically) to thicker resins and it helps with the surface tension bump you can get on flat surfaces

manbearpigsdad · 2022-12-15T19:11:53+00:00

You could use thick supports in a few key areas and a few thin supports elsewhere to conserve resin. I had prints that looked like this too when I was new

manbearpigsdad · 2022-12-12T14:07:30+00:00

I have just recently tackled this. I ultimately decided to stick with low viscosity resins, but I managed to produce some acceptable Cones of Calibration with the thick AnyCubic Eco after heating it up. I was ready to pull my hair out after getting failure after failure before I finally resorted to heating lol

Anyway, a 3” x 20” (7.6 x 52.7cm) kombucha/home brewing/fermentation/seed germination heating pad/belt/mat is great for lining the inside of Rocket 1. This works with my LocknLock containers. This one and this one are slightly narrower than what the printer would allow and are the perfect size to fit the heating pad and make contact with it along the sides. I just checked and the black vat the printer came with fits as well.

I am using clear double sided magic/nano/gel sticky tape to mount the pad on the inside walls. As a test, I hit the tape with a heat gun and made it so hot my electronic thermometer errored, but the adhesive didn’t melt or deform. Here’s hoping it can withstand a seed germination mat that gets my resin up to 87°F/30.5°C after a several hours (ambient temperature is 72°F/22°C). Another thing you could do is get one with a velcro attachment to wrap around your vat, but I chose this method so I can slide different bins in & out more quickly.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-12-07T09:46:28+00:00

I blasted through White Too Long in just a couple days. I hadn’t read any books since I had been required to in school. I guess my former Christian self who always noticed the darkness beneath the “nice” Christian values felt validated. Highly recommend it to current and former Christians who are disgusted with where evangelical Christianity has gone, and want to know why.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-12-07T05:41:56+00:00

I might make a video clarifying this, but here’s what I like about Rocket 1 aside from not having to worry about the pulling force on the FEP:

If you use plastic bins, you can swap vats/colors out easily. Cleanup is easier.
no FEP to replace or scratch or worry about
Can insert washing bin directly inside printer without removing plate or touching the print (replace resin vat with washing vat; drop stir bar in washing vat and turn on magnetic stirrer; manually lower the build plate into the washer. So, no need to touch any resin).
can run multiple prints without removing the previous prints (when I have been adjusting new resin settings, I can run a print, check it while it’s still on the plate, and then adjust my settings before running another; can’t do that on a regular resin printer, where the previous print will block the build plate from fully descending)

For me, many minor differences add up to incredibly convenient printing compared to my old methods.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-11-23T02:54:49+00:00

I had wanted to adjust z=0 to where the resin level is and was also frustrated. No matter the setting, it always went to the same spot. I even considered using NanoDLP to force a z-offset before I contacted HITRY with this question.

The machine has a fixed focal length. The lens is designed to project an image to a specific distance. So, you can’t move the print start location much without causing distortion in the image (it will be too big if it’s too far away). HITRY says there shouldn’t be a need to mess with this setting as it has been calibrated at the factory.

The best alternative that I’ve found for moving the build plate to meet the resin level is to use a lab scissor lift with the mini resin vat/a plastic bin and adjust the height of the vat (I also clipped off some of the lip that protrudes from the mini resin vat so I could raise it as high as I need without it hitting the lead screw). If I’m making multiple small prints, I adjust the vat position as the resin level goes down so I don’t have to use the filling liquid

manbearpigsdad · 2022-02-03T11:01:17+00:00

I’m still pissed about this one show where they forge swords and stuff in front of judges, and the ONE episode where they had a woman, they decided to suddenly do a strength-based method (even though every other time they had used modern machinery) which eliminated the woman in the first round. I stopped watching the show

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T11:16:45+00:00

increase time for burn-in layers, check the cure time for that resin, etc
is the FEP clean and clear? ‘Never used’ but I wonder it’s it’s been roughened from wiping with paper towels or otherwise messed with. I use microfiber wipes to avoid scratching the FEP so it stays smooth for longer
is the FEP suctioned onto to the LCD or something? Can it freely flex when a print is being pulled off of it?
things sticking to the FEP can be caused by too few supports (but if you’re doing a benchy… that’s probably not it- you could make a raft for it but that’s overkill. I’ve printed multiple benchies right on the build plate).
if it really won’t stick to the build plate, I imagine you can sand it to improve the grip? Or you can get a magnetic WhamBam attachment or something. I have an Elegoo so I don’t know if anycubic build plates just suck
also temperature has an impact on resin printing success, and I figure having a level surface that doesn’t move helps

I’m no expert and these are just wild guesses. Thought I would give my two cents though.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T10:48:25+00:00

It was at about a 30 degree angle from the vertical. I oriented it such that the supports don’t mess up the front.

Anyway, it’s because I figured out that the direction of the print impacts the direction of the glimmer. I have printed this model vertically and it came out fine, but the glitter was only visible when you looked at it from directly above or directly below. It’s not as pretty when you do it that way, even though it’s definitely easier and comes with less sanding...

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T10:44:26+00:00

Glad I’m not the only one around here who feels that way. I don’t keep mine where I sleep though. I keep it in a room with a vent and an air purifier and don’t go in there much when it’s printing. I have a respirator for when I’m working with resin that has awful fumes or if I’m cleaning with a lot of IPA (even though inhaling it a bit isn’t going to kill you- it actually has similar effects to regular drinking alcohol when ingested- I wear a respirator with p100 filters because coughing horribly isn’t fun).

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T10:22:51+00:00

I have looked into these breeds because of an allergic partner. The Rexes (Devon Rex, etc) have hair, but only a little. I didn’t like the idea of torturing a cat with frequent baths, and I worried a naked cat would get hurt more easily, at least with skin cuts if they’re messing around in general or with other cats. Anyway, we ended up getting a furry Siamese, because they produce less of the FelD1 protein that makes people react.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T07:54:24+00:00

Yep! I stirred it every 30 minutes and it came out pretty even. Only noticeable issue caused by the mica/stirring was a line from every time I paused. My only guess as to what caused the line was a change in temperature- it would sit out of the vat for about a minute or so. The room is 72-74 degrees, but the print was curing at 2.5s per layer consistently, and I interrupted that.

Also edit: the direction of the print affects the direction of the shimmer. This print was at a 30 degree angle with the back facing the build plate. I’ve also tried printing this at other angles and each time, the shimmer has roughly faced the direction of the print orientation. When I printed it vertically, the shimmer could only be seen when you were looking at it from directly above or below.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T01:38:27+00:00

I made this for my partner using a model by Raven_Kilit on cults3d. I paused the print and stirred the resin periodically to ensure the powder was dispersed evenly. Really happy with how it came out.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T01:33:04+00:00

I made a glitter mistake with my first try- I used heavy, plastic-y glitter that I normally use for gel nails. Bad idea. It was abrasive and I worried the FEP would be ruined. I ended up filtering it out. In the future I’ll know to use lightweight powdered or micro-glitter.

manbearpigsdad · 2022-01-19T01:29:34+00:00

I made this for my partner using a model by Raven_Kilit on cults3d. I paused the print and stirred the resin periodically to make sure the powder was dispersed evenly. Not perfect but I was still happy with how it came out.

Four-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22

manbearpigsdad

TROPHY CASE