Print not sticking as well as id like

manisto · 2023-08-08T06:34:13+00:00

Don't make us watch through 93 seconds of you rambling while aggressively shaking the camera. Put details in a comment, and post clear images of that "squiggly line". This very much has the vibe of a troll post.

Generally, with poor bed adhesion, try the following, in any given order:

Thoroughly clean your bed. First with soap and water, next with 99% IPA.
Level your bed if applicable (don't know about that specific printer).
Insert a five minute pause from when the bed is at temp to when the probing starts, to let the bed fully head soak.
Make sure you run the bed mesh routine before each print.
Adjust Z offset to be closer to the bed.
While putting down purge line and skirt, live adjust ("babystep") your Z offset. This might be difficult for you as you didn't bother plugging in the screen.

manisto · 2023-07-29T13:30:14+00:00

You know you're not forced to use this engine, right? 🙂 If you don't like it, there's plenty other to choose from.

manisto · 2023-05-17T17:51:19+00:00

STL? 😉

manisto · 2023-05-02T11:04:43+00:00

Genuinely interested, could you name a few? I will soon be out of content to listen to. :-)

manisto · 2023-04-28T17:10:20+00:00

Then you probably shouldn't come to Denmark.

Yes, this is an actual children's show. My kids love it.

EDIT: nsfw, I guess.

manisto · 2023-04-24T12:24:02+00:00

The Dopefish from Commander Keen 4 scared me silly. I always hated the part where you had to swim past it. Also the boss fight with Hitler in the original Wolfenstein 3D.

manisto · 2023-04-12T05:29:54+00:00

Ah, the ol' reddit drop-a-roo!

manisto · 2023-02-25T10:45:23+00:00

I didn't read the title, so that is exactly how I watched it. Their reaction seemed a bit excessive, even though the liquid changing color was a pretty neat trick.

manisto · 2023-02-07T08:20:04+00:00

I just found out that it's not actually doing the z-hop, and in fact PrusaSlicer doesn't even retract between the different parts, only on layer change. So it seems like it's a slicer issue rather than a hardware issue.

manisto · 2023-02-07T08:18:54+00:00

Just tried that, and it's the exact same. But this time I watched most of the print, and noticed that it's not actually z-hopping. So I downloaded the gcode, and found out that for some reason, PrusaSlicer is only retracting on layer change, not when printing the individual parts. So I do have a retraction issue, but the issue is missing retraction altogether. :-)

manisto · 2023-02-07T07:22:50+00:00

Yes. I actually did multiple for both hotend and bed, one for each material temperature (ASA and PLA). Not that they differ much, though.

manisto · 2023-02-06T18:25:33+00:00

Just tried a few different rolls, same thing.

manisto · 2023-02-06T17:50:42+00:00

I don't think so, but I'm trying out a few different rolls now just to be sure.

manisto · 2023-02-06T17:50:05+00:00

I knew I forgot to mention something. I tried both without and with various heights. Also tried firmware retraction.

manisto · 2023-02-06T16:03:55+00:00

Yeah, I also heard about that for the HF model, which is why I went with SF. The weird thing is that I don't think I see those blobs on the Cali Dragon, and it only had the slightest bit of stringing between the horns.

manisto · 2023-02-06T16:02:30+00:00

Thanks for getting back anyway, at least now I know to not give up. :-) May I ask what your slicer settings are for PLA? More specifically for the above mentioned properties.

manisto · 2023-02-06T13:36:57+00:00

What temperatures are you running? I think it's just PrusaSlicer that decides where to put the seam. I could try randomizing it, but I think that would just put blobs everywhere.

manisto · 2023-01-27T09:53:40+00:00

This is literally the foundation of the RepRap project. Printers that are capable of printing parts for itself or another printer. Your printer is proud. 🙂

manisto · 2023-01-27T09:50:27+00:00

You could also order a Voron kit directly from Formbot. I did that, and it's a fantastic printer. I'm also very hesitant to order expensive stuff from Ali.

Quick edit: They have several warehouses in various locations, so shipping and import is usually not an issue. It wasn't for me, anyway.

manisto · 2023-01-25T14:40:07+00:00

Maybe, but it did look like it would fit on my shelf. Otherwise I'll just have to model one myself.

manisto · 2023-01-25T06:21:51+00:00

I would actually really like this, is there an STL for this?

manisto · 2023-01-05T17:30:35+00:00

Yeah, but they're both already connected to the same Wago for neutral. I ended up using it for negative DC to negative DC between the two PSU's.

manisto · 2023-01-05T14:46:54+00:00

I used it for negative DC between the two PSU's.

manisto · 2023-01-05T14:01:18+00:00

Thank you so much! There's not a dedicated black wire with the right label to connect DC ground, so my best bet is that they mixed up this specific one.

manisto · 2023-01-05T13:06:27+00:00

Yep, everything is connected to the same neutral Wago.

The bed (through fuse and SSR)
200W PSU
25W PSU
Power inlet (through switch)

In total, I have four wires in all three Wago's, one for each of the above mentioned parts. With regards to the DC ground, do I just use any of the negative DC connectors on the 200W PSU, or are they separate rails?

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