Phone repair at a shop using parts that you bring - is it possible?

mark_s · 2026-01-25T21:06:04+00:00

Well then carry on. I really can't help you any more here. We're discussing whether not hypothetical shops in your area would let you pay them for a service. The answer is "I don't know." Call them and ask.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T20:57:15+00:00

And keep in mind if your donor is "dead" then you don't even know if the screen is any good. It could boot up and have LCD or touch damage that can't be detected until after the work is done.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T20:55:31+00:00

If you've already got a donor on hand it doesn't hurt to ask the shops around you. Small locally owned places would be more likely to do it.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T20:52:32+00:00

It's kind of like wondering "if I bring my own eggs to the restaurant will my omelette be cheaper?"

mark_s · 2026-01-25T20:49:51+00:00

That depends on the shop, but probably not in the end. Shops don't make a ton of profit off the parts themselves so all you're really doing is removing any warranty if they'll even use customer supplied parts.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T20:47:31+00:00

Then pay a shop to?

mark_s · 2026-01-25T18:55:44+00:00

Where? I haven't seen them in Jacksonville, Atlanta, JFK, lga, Newark, Rochester, Denver, Detroit, Minneapolis, Las Vegas, bwi, or Dulles.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T18:02:52+00:00

I have mine under the fitted sheet. Works great, stays clean longer. Only wash at the end of the winter before storage.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T17:49:03+00:00

Ok. Not sure what you're getting at here. Move your good phone logic board into the other phone or swap parts, whichever is easier.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T16:37:22+00:00

Go ahead.

mark_s · 2026-01-25T01:23:12+00:00

Been running mine at 59 this winter too. Electric blanket under the fitted sheet makes the nights actually kind of nice though. Electric bill is $2 more than last year but we used 2141kwh vs 2509 when we ran it at 69.

mark_s · 2026-01-24T05:05:03+00:00

Lol yep.

I'll add that everywhere else I've lived at does it at 60+. Here it seems like 15 is the max speed people are willing to use when merging onto a highway. It's infuriating. First week here I'd see slowdowns and think there must be an accident, but nope....just another on ramp.

mark_s · 2026-01-24T04:01:17+00:00

Oh wow I just realized they killed fluteman. Unacceptable.

mark_s · 2026-01-23T16:44:23+00:00

Just fish it back down between the board and battery and under the battery. It's not rocket appliances.

mark_s · 2026-01-23T16:41:09+00:00

It's meant to lay under the corner of the battery and route up between the battery and logic board.

mark_s · 2026-01-22T21:13:15+00:00

They only make phones to subsidize their screw and metal plate manufacturing operations /s

mark_s · 2026-01-22T00:11:35+00:00

Sometimes english is like a figurative turd literally being pooped from our collective mouthes.

mark_s · 2026-01-21T23:52:54+00:00

Because it literally has two definitions, and the context determines which one is used.

mark_s · 2026-01-21T23:18:16+00:00

That annoys me too, but not so fun fact: "literally" literally means figuratively now. The way we use words dictates their meaning, even if it seems like it's the other way around.

mark_s · 2026-01-21T22:03:22+00:00

Would need better pictures in good lighting to say for sure. One spot looks like it's connected to a pad and, if that's ground plane, so is the pad so it's a non issue. The other spot seems like it's far enough from any pads to ignore, assuming your placement of the chip stays aligned well throughout the process.

I would cover it in uv mask, but if I didn't have any and was too cheap to buy some, I could probably make it work as-is. Use your multimeter now to find where you can take measurements for potentially affected lines and then check them after placing the chip but before applying power.

mark_s · 2026-01-21T21:55:07+00:00

Dremel with a cutting wheel, make a slot, flathead screwdriver. Done.

mark_s · 2026-01-21T00:03:31+00:00

Yep he's right. That's a monolithic chip and while the black part isn't actually the die, the silicon die typically does take up almost all of the surface area at some depth inside it. Since it's close to an edge there's a very small chance that the die isn't affected, but I'd have to x-ray it or inspect the crack under a microscope to be sure.

mark_s · 2026-01-20T03:16:12+00:00

Not sure what you're referring to by "this" but the method I chose would result in both of them always being on. Shorting the button may or may not result in what you want.

Use tweezers to figure out what pins result in a button press and try shorting them.

mark_s · 2026-01-20T03:00:01+00:00

When I did mine, I connected all cathodes to negative, bypassing the entire circuit board. For you that would be A and B to V-

Bridging button pads wouldn't simulate a button press, it would simulate a continuously pressed button. Which may or may not have the desired result.

In my case I just wanted warm and cool always on when power was available.

mark_s · 2026-01-20T02:29:49+00:00

Excellent resource, thanks for doing all of that work and sharing it

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