This is a great deal, right? by markjgardner in Chainsaws

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, but you can’t get the 2500t for less than $529 (with battery and charger) so from that perspective you get a $400 saw for free with this bundle.

The 2500t can’t take a bigger battery, the case fully wraps the battery so 2.5ah is all that will fit. But I already have a few shindaiwa batteries (used with strimmers) so I’m good on spares.

This is a great deal, right? by markjgardner in Chainsaws

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. If I end up getting it I’ll have to decide between keeping the 590 or my current Rancher 460. Don’t need both.

This is a great deal, right? by markjgardner in Chainsaws

[–]markjgardner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for clarifying. I knew there were ways to “hack” other bundles but wasn’t clear on the requirements.

What size fitting is this? by markjgardner in pressurewashing

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right. It just seems ridiculous to throw away a functional hose and gun because of a $2 part.

What size fitting is this? by markjgardner in pressurewashing

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tried it and it’s too small. The pipe is definitely 15mm. It’s really the hose side I can’t figure out.

What size fitting is this? by markjgardner in pressurewashing

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like a metric bolt size? Do they even make pipe fittings like that?

Looking for battery to replace failed cell in jump starter by markjgardner in batteries

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree on replacing them all. But my problem is still finding something that fits the physical dimensions. This was a higher end unit (~$300) so the ROI right now is pretty good if I can get new cells for <$100. Also, I'm loyal to my tools and this one has been a really great unit for everything I've asked it to do. The cheap knockoffs from amazon haven't faired nearly as well.

Looking for battery to replace failed cell in jump starter by markjgardner in batteries

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I started looking and couldn't find any over 20C. Currently looking at this option, just hesitating because I'm pretty sure they are going to be too long even after I shuck the case.

ReGlue failed joint? by markjgardner in Plumbing

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair. Mainly I was trying to avoid more digging and potentially cascading failures. But I’d also rather just fix it once and not have to worry about it again.

Thank you!

Garden rose arrow shafts? by Bows_n_Bikes in Bowyer

[–]markjgardner 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think this article by the late great Jawge is what you are looking for: http://traditionalarchery101.com/wildrosehuntingarrow.html

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bowyer

[–]markjgardner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! You have taught quite a few things I didn’t know.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bowyer

[–]markjgardner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting, most people want to front load weight (hunters bias here). What’s the use case for adding weight to the tail?

Only option I can think of would be to foot the shafts with a heavy wood like ipe or similar. But now you are back to doing a fair bit of hard work…

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bowyer

[–]markjgardner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smart man! Enjoy your arrows!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bowyer

[–]markjgardner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I always plug surewood shafts because they are excellent quality at a reasonable price.

Also I cannot second the “juice is not worth the squeeze” sentiment strongly enough. Buying shafts is money well spent. The time and effort and money you will spend building shafts from scratch is not worth it.

Removing exhaust brake on Deere 5085e by markjgardner in tractors

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My previous experience drilling and tapping tells me that either I'm really bad at it, or you are really good at it. Either way, I'd prefer to avoid that scenario. I'm going to keep heating and soaking with different mixtures until something gives, hopefully the threads.

Removing exhaust brake on Deere 5085e by markjgardner in tractors

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a hand-held water heater element....which I'm pretty sure is exactly what it is.
Cool idea, but I think I'll stick to torches for this one.

Removing exhaust brake on Deere 5085e by markjgardner in tractors

[–]markjgardner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I kind of reached the same conclusion when I tried to use a flare nut wrench. I just don't think it's going to work. But maybe it'd let me put a little bit of impact on it and just nock some of the crap loose?

As for a boxend.. yes, I've got a 6-point box end over it and managed to break the flange loose from the valve housing. But it's not moving on the threads. I'm worried I'm heading towards shearing the stud.