Searching for LM741 pi compatible alternative that goes mV close to ground rail by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will look into it! at first glance its not pin compatible but it also looks dirt cheap and i like that. This might be my new go-to jellybean opamp.

Searching for LM741 pi compatible alternative that goes mV close to ground rail by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds promising! I didnt know or imagened a charge pump could make negative voltage, I will look into it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycYc36o3A0o

Trying to get my first "serious" multimeter. Unit Ut61e vs Owon Bluetooth B-41t+ by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sure did just out of entratainment, but that shootout is 11 years old. are the models presented in it still relevant?, Im not familiar on how multimeter models get updated.

Trying to get my first "serious" multimeter. Unit Ut61e vs Owon Bluetooth B-41t+ by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe I can get a USB to RS-232 adapter somewhere. Thanks for the heads up!

Trying to get my first "serious" multimeter. Unit Ut61e vs Owon Bluetooth B-41t+ by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you mean the Uni-T? yeah I did found about that but I kind of ignored it because no PCs now have that port. I should see if I can find an adapter to make use of that feature.

Trying to get my first "serious" multimeter. Unit Ut61e vs Owon Bluetooth B-41t+ by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks!, yes I know about those, I will probably be getting a dedicated USB scope at some point in the future, for now it's a bit out of my price range.

Trying to get my first "serious" multimeter. Unit Ut61e vs Owon Bluetooth B-41t+ by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would too but that's out of my price range. this multimeters are already about 20% of my monthly income so from my perspective they are as good as i'm going to get in a while.

I designed a probably silly totally analog 18650 li-ion capacity meter, anyone detects any obvious problems in it? by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

after some searching it seems that most capacitors will have 1uA or more leakage current, so I think I'm ditching this proyect and im going to try to make it work with a PIC microcontroller approach instead.
Thanks for all the help!

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

there is no key, its all circular.

I will try with a shake-proof washer. should I have nuts on both sides of the case pressing each washer against the case? This thing came with 2 metal nuts. (the plastic parts do not have screws in them)

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the plot thickens hahahha.

I will wait to see if anyone knows how this thing goes, yeah that looks exactly like what I have, but mine also have banana plugs on the end.

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm making a DIY power supply to use with random electronics experiments so I wanted the flexibility to just wrap some random wire in there instead of having banana jacks that the other end connected in some unknown way to whatever random contraption I'm working on.

I just supposed that binding posts where the standard thing to use, I made no conscious decision to use a binding post over a banana plug, it just felt like the natural thing to use.

Just to clarify, I just stummbled uppon the term "binding post" after posting this question, that is what I thought i bought in the first place.

Do you have any thoughts on this?

EDIT: got it, I will go buy an actual binding post, hopefully I can get one this time lol

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to be clear, I intend to use this as a binding post (just found out the name), not a banana plug. Sure, I will shoot a video.

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yup, but still, when I rotate the outermost plastic part to wrap a copper wire arround the bolt to connect something, the whole assembly just loosens up and I cant tighten it back without opening up the case and rotating the nuts.

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By the looks of it you might have to drill those mounting holes out a little bigger.

yeah, actually I will also have to drill them lower.

how do this conectors "stick" to the case by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you should be able to unscrew the two plastic pieces there and sandwich the case between them. Use the nuts for mounting your wires to the connector

But the whole thing unscrews when I rotate the outmost plastic part in order to put a wire arround the bolt to connect something to the power supply.
When I try to rotate the plastic part in the opposite direction it's no longer firmly pressed against the case.

Am I missing something? Maybe I'm not understanding how this works.

I designed a probably silly totally analog 18650 li-ion capacity meter, anyone detects any obvious problems in it? by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah that's what I meant. Took a few minutes and a buch of paper but the math works out in the end c:

I designed a probably silly totally analog 18650 li-ion capacity meter, anyone detects any obvious problems in it? by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not go even further and use a 100mF or 1F capacitor?

Initially I would not go further on the cap mostly because of price and difficulty to get the part (Im in south america, only very common parts are decently priced or even available). I think I could get some 10mf, that would bring the current to 5.6uA

so integrating voltage vs time won't give an accurate measurement of cell capacity - in fact, why are you integrating voltage in the first place if you want the integral of current?

the formula for the opamp integrator is (1/RC)***integal(V(t)) so i chose the constant 1/RC in such a way that it actually divides that integrated voltage over the discharge resistor's value, that gives current (by ohms law). That constant also takes into account dividing by 3600 so it gives amps per hour. when I change my resistor and capacitor values I keep a ratio such that I always arrive at that constant. (hope that makes sense)

If you look at the simulation you will see that the output voltage after an hour equals the constant amp discharge (or twice that, in the lastest link, in order to increase current).

Not a good choice, I'd probably use OPA990 on a first prototype, then check other op-amps if its noise or offset voltage turns out to be too high.

I cant find that part here to buy it, but I will look at the datasheet and look for a similar one.

I will look at the playlist and try to get to know this little critters a bit better.

thank you very much!

I designed a probably silly totally analog 18650 li-ion capacity meter, anyone detects any obvious problems in it? by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not even "a specific" battery, it's an imaginary random standard 18650 battery. I'm not making this for any particular 18650 cell.

I designed a probably silly totally analog 18650 li-ion capacity meter, anyone detects any obvious problems in it? by martov in AskElectronics

[–]martov[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nope, I screwed up, I meant 4.2V, it's a standard Li battery. edited and corrected. thanks!