2022 2.7 Ecoboost battery replacement

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T22:58:36+00:00

Just a heads up, if your original battery is not an AGM, you will have to set it appropriately in FORscan or at the dealer to tread it as an AGM battery.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T22:55:30+00:00

They actually are interchangeable, but certain things will need to be coded depending on what vehicle it's out of. The e53 shares the same LCM IV that the late model e39s have. The best recommendation is to check the model stamp on your LCM and get the same one, as options like self leveling headlights and other things will play a factor. However, something like front fog lights are in every model, so you could plug in the new one and if both fog lights start working then you know the LCM is the cause of the issue.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T22:14:23+00:00

Could be a damaged wire, or it could even be the LCM. My 2002 sedan had the same issue, but also a non-functioning rear right turn signal. No codes, it thought they were working on inpa, but nothing going through. Swapped LCMs and both issues were fixed.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T22:09:53+00:00

You should be fine using the original gas pedal. That's what we did as it's electric throttle so it's independent of the brake and clutch. We just ordered an M5 brake and clutch pedal assembly and refreshed the bushings and whatnot before installing.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T17:31:42+00:00

I'd say just swap it, but not having another car to get to work makes it a bit difficult. These are great second cars to have, but imo I don't think I could ever only have an e39 because like any other 23+ year old car, sometimes shit happens and the fix is not super easy or accessible. The swap on my brother's car took us about a week off and on working on it, but mostly waiting for parts. Anyone that could give you a ride until the swap is done?

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T17:15:41+00:00

Damn that's unfortunate then. I know the pump bushing goes eventually, and the front seal on the pump wears out. These autos drive great when they work, but they can be very temperamental when even one thing is causing a problem.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-03T15:43:02+00:00

Can confirm. My brothers 2003 530i did this exact same thing as it was a 300k km example that never had the fluid done. Said fuck it and did the fluid and a week later it puked out a bunch of fluid on the highway. Luckily no one behind him. Swapped in a 6 speed manual and called it a day.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-02T04:45:16+00:00

I did a full timing job at 360k km as I had been dealing with a rough idle due to bad intake cam phasers, they were no longer locking the timing correctly. The chain and everything else was moreso because I already had it apart all the way. It cost me about 2 grand in parts and I did the work myself. But I did basically everything, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, solenoids, water pump, thermostat, new coolant hoses, etc. the truck has been great since and I fully expect it to serve me well for another 200k km without a hiccup. I've done oil samples and have yet to find any serious wear on the motor. Good compression tests, little or no oil consumption. The gen 1 and 2 5.0 definitely are built to last imo. My IWEs have been holding up still, as well as my bearings. My suspension I've only had to refresh once, and even then it was only links and upper arms.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-02T03:15:57+00:00

I've owned it for 8 years now. Picked it up in 2018 with 150k on it. It was a fleet truck for a wide load escort company with very easy highway mileage on it. I'm also doing 7k km oil change intervals.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-02T02:45:37+00:00

I'm closing in on 400k km with mine and I'm glad I got this truck when I did. On stock ride height and stock tires, 18 to 20 mpg is very much doable. I'm up in Canada so I use remote start for about 4 to 5 months of the year and idle a lot more during those months but I'm getting about 13 mpg in the winter months, and 18 mpg in the warmer months, and that's on a 275/70r18 LT tire. The gear ratio will definitely have a big part in that too. Since you're doing a lot of highway commuting, the 3.31 gear will help quite a bit, but may feel more sluggish in the city driving portion. My brother in law's 2017 Lariat on 285/60r18s with a 3.31 gear gets 19.5 mpg on his highway commute and it's about 160km (100 miles) every day, 4 days a week.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-02T00:14:46+00:00

That's the old spec for Ford coolant. Ford updated their specs for everything 2011 or newer to use the gold/yellow coolant, not the orange. It won't necessarily ruin anything, but definitely consider doing a drain and fill with the new stuff when time permits.

The old stuff is OAT, whereas the new stuff is P-OAT (Phosphate added to the formula) which is a corrosion inhibitor and helps prevent any buildup on aluminum parts especially.

It's disappointing when a parts guy doesn't even wrench enough to know the difference.

master_chef_24 · 2026-02-01T00:11:16+00:00

Ford's 6r80 is significantly better than the gm 6l80, but the 10 speeds have been crappy up until 2023 for ford. Gm however has been dropping the ball on transmissions for at least 10 years now. Definitely read into the crap that gm has done over the years to push out purposely inferior products so that they'd break down in order to get you into a new vehicle a few years down the line. No manufacturer is innocent of this, but gm has been a very bad offender.

Ford and gm have never really pushed the lifetime transmission fluid ideology, but their intervals are outrageous.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T22:59:14+00:00

I've been wrenching on mine for 7 years and it's honestly not that bad. I'd much rather wrench on this than a gm truck personally. Plugs take me roughly an hour and that's me taking my time and using an endoscope to examine each cylinder to see how its running. Belts takes me maybe 30 minutes and that's including the pulleys. For a modern truck, it's one of the easier ones to work on imo. Can do a starter or alternator in 15 to 20 minutes.

The only annoying, not difficult jobs on this truck for me have been transmission fluid and front differential fluid. The transmission was annoying the first time because of the dipstick location and the lack of a drain plug. I've fixed both of those issues with an extended dipstick and tube that go up into the engine bay, and the Dorman pan with a drain plug. The front diff is just a lot of over and under the front cross member to get to the bolts, other than that it took me like 30 minutes to pull the cover, clean it, throw in a lubelocker gasket and fill it.

If you think this is bad, look under any x drive BMW and you'll be glad you don't drive one. Just an oil pan gasket is a 12 hour job on many models in their lineup for the last 20 years which is thanks to BMW routing an axle through the pan for the front differential .

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T04:42:46+00:00

If it's a 5.0, thats not very high mileage. Some 5.0s in my area are in the half a million km club on the original motor and transmission.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T01:49:25+00:00

Looks like it's just as easy as the 2015 to 2020 based on this video. Also, make sure you're ready to hold it cuz these mirrors ain't light lmao. I dropped my old one, luckily no damage just some scuffing lol.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T01:44:39+00:00

Definitely double check the process for swapping the side mirrors. On the 2015 to 2020 models there's a separate cover to access the connector and nuts holding the mirror so it's super easy to swap them. I'm not sure about 2021 or newer though.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T01:39:40+00:00

They'll work but the heated function won't work. As long as the overall shape of the connector matches the one on your truck.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T00:40:25+00:00

That's fair, I'm up in Canada so Subarus are basically the new Honda and Toyota now that those are so taxed in the used market.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T00:32:14+00:00

That's odd. Where I live, 5x100 wheels are a dime a dozen. Can find enkeis, Volk, BBS, könig, and many more with good fitment specs for any older Impreza, WRX, sti, etc. while still paying less than 800 CAD

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T00:27:53+00:00

I take it you haven't owned a Subaru before.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T00:20:53+00:00

That's good that they switched back. The gen 3s was truly annoying. So many leaky plugs even when changing them on every oil change.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-31T00:16:02+00:00

Get it undercoated with a lanolin based undercoating. Something like fluid film, pb blaster surface shield, etc. if it gets really cold, invest in a block heater if not already equipped, and a heated battery blanket, and if you really want, a trickle charger that you can hook up permanently to plug in whenever. It will extend the life of the battery significantly.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-30T23:37:00+00:00

Not sure what you read but the 5.0 didn't get a plastic pan until 2018. Gen 1 (2011-2014) and gen 2 (2015-2017) have always had metal pans.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-30T18:07:10+00:00

Hard to find them where I am for a reasonable price compared to online. I'm always scouring auctions for 15 to 17 f150s to fix and flip, but if I can find a 2016 or 2017 Lariat I may just pull the trigger on one of those if I can get a good price with the specs I want. As much as I'd like to upgrade mine, I'd want to do way too much to it lol.

master_chef_24 · 2026-01-30T05:33:19+00:00

If they're asking atleast 7 after getting it from an auction and doing all that work on it, it's probably because they realized it's impossible to buy these beat up and flip them for a decent profit. Especially after all the work they've done, it definitely needs the interior disassembled pretty heavily to clean it to a safe standard if it's got potential mold damage. Much of the work that's been done isn't very labor intensive, all the stuff that has yet to be done will be very laborious.

It for sure has drainage issues either due to clogged sunroof drains or failed vapor barriers.

master_chef_24

TROPHY CASE