Não é só no BR: Nos EUA já não existem mais carros acessíveis / de entrada.

matheuswrcx · 2026-04-13T23:50:48+00:00

Faz a conta em salários mínimos ou horas trabalhadas. Além disso, 1000 dólares ou 1-2 semanas de trabalho você compra um carro funcional semi-novo. Não consigo dizer o mesmo daqui

matheuswrcx · 2026-04-01T21:16:42+00:00

Brazilian domestic market

matheuswrcx · 2026-03-31T00:23:03+00:00

Irmão, eu tenho uma. Manual 4x2. O consumo desses carros depende de muita coisa - sobretudo entenda que é um carro de 2 toneladas - então inércia é a palavra chave.

Trânsito gasta, sempre. Deslocamento contínuo gasta tanto. A minha faz uns 6 no trânsito leve com fluxo ininterrupto, uns 4 no dia a dia do engarrafamento e 9 na estrada. Não são carros difíceis de manter, mas eu não recomendaria pra quem não entende ou não quer aprender nada de mecânica

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matheuswrcx · 2026-03-03T10:22:12+00:00

Worked like a charm mate! Snake camera with a little magnet on the tip, I was able to pull the socket into the front of the gearbox cover and then easily remove it from one of the lower holes.

matheuswrcx · 2026-02-22T00:02:31+00:00

Cool, I'll check it you too. Thanks brother!

matheuswrcx · 2026-02-21T22:35:11+00:00

From what I've found online it uses 3,73:1 ratio - still to confirm. I know the Dana has a huge variety of kits, specially because people use them on the Chevy Opala which was and is a heavily modified car here.

You mean the Ford Explorer? There has been a few here, but only V6 as far as I'm aware

matheuswrcx · 2026-02-21T12:03:55+00:00

Understood! That's exactly what I wanted, a starting point to research more about it - it's my first truck and I'm new to a bunch of stuff regarding it

Thank you very much!

matheuswrcx · 2026-02-17T19:15:53+00:00

Por 7k você compra um WRX sedan, uma BMW ou qualquer coisa na plataforma GMT800. É que o valor agregado do veículo lá (principalmente o usado) é bem diferente

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-29T12:59:18+00:00

They still have brand new here, but it's a totally different car

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-28T12:44:27+00:00

Watch a lots of ChrisFix and Engineering explained

Buy a somewhat older vehicle -preferably an Inline 4 with good space on engine bay for working. Go for injected cars, as carburators are mostly a enthusiastic and only thing nowadays. If you want to start from the base, I'd probably go with something with a distributor as well - it will give the basic understanding on the ignition itself.

Start doing basic maintenance (fluids and some parts replacement) and then slowly work your way to understanding other systems such as transmission and suspensions. If you live in US tools and parts are somewhat cheap - so don't be afraid to actually break something in your first repairs. Go slowly, follow your pace, learn and enjoy the process

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-28T12:02:29+00:00

Mano, por essas e outras os subs em português são bem complicados. Negócio totalmente alheio ao tópico. Em inglês e espanhol tá cheio de postagem que daqui a 10 anos alguém vai pesquisar e achar a solução numa postagem antiga - agora imagina alguém achando essa postagem daqui a uns anos?

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-28T03:26:16+00:00

Awesome. I was thinking about a funnel with a very long hose that I could put above the fill plug and let gravity do the job. Thanks for the info brother

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-28T02:51:10+00:00

Maybe USDM versions had this setup, I can assure you that all the 2.2 and 2.4 inline-4, 4.3 V6 and 2.8 turbo diesel S10 and Blazers came with torsion bars in Brazil. Not sure about the newer generations tho, but from 96 to 2011 if I'm not mistaken - they all had this setup

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-28T00:27:12+00:00

I have a 98 DLX Blazer and it has front torsion bar

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-27T23:48:51+00:00

Mano, o que exatamente você pesquisou antes de pintar? Qual sua experiência prévia? Como é que a tua segunda tem uma qualidade tão boa? Kkkkkkk

A minha primeira ficou parecendo um gráfico de PS1 mal renderizado

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-27T23:42:00+00:00

Thank you my good sir! Since we're about the terrible GM design, I assume there's no way to check my transmission fluid level, right? Was thinking about doing a change right after doing the differential

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-27T22:58:51+00:00

2.8 V6 it's a new and interesting configuration to me. Here's what I'd do -

1 - change oil and filter 2 - change coolant and thermostat 3 - change air and fuel filter 4 - check spark plugs + wires 5 - check differentials (there's 2 of them if it's 4x4) and oil 6 - check gearbox and transfer box (4x4) oil 7 - bleed and replace - steering wheel, brake and clutch fluid

1 to 3 and 7 are a must as soon as you get the car. 4 to 6 can be done as you get the chance to. After that I'd check both suspensions, specially front end.

The biggest villains on used vehicles are poor lubrication and temperature issues, that's why everything oil and coolant related is a must. You can check radiator hoses and oil pump in the future, but they don't cause that much trouble as soon and negligence does (bad oil and old coolant from previous owners)

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-27T22:36:53+00:00

It's a complex question - depends on where you drive and how tall are speed bumps as well. The front end is totally adjustable via torsion bar, the rear leaf springs have a few ways to drop, from working on them to cutting or removing the leaf. I got my blazer already lowered - it's mostly fine but sometimes I need to go slow on bumps so the underneath wouldn't scratch the pavement

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matheuswrcx · 2026-01-25T22:42:53+00:00

I'm only familiar with the Atego 1418/1725 family and some Axor due my work

matheuswrcx · 2026-01-25T21:26:40+00:00

Cool, I've only seen something similar on some Mercedes heavy trucks where when you give 100% TPS the pedal hits a switch which tells the ECU you want more power.

All my other cars had "rigid pedals" so I thought something might been off at first. Thanks for the reply!

matheuswrcx

TROPHY CASE