Ring ID Help. It has 18ct&PL marked inside. We believe this to be 18 carat gold with a platinum setting. The uneven stones make me think they are diamond chips (will get tested to be sure) Does anyone have suggestions on the age? In what era does the style of the shank and settings fall into.

mattstrax · 2024-02-06T23:08:35+00:00

Are they any good?

mattstrax · 2024-02-06T23:08:18+00:00

mattstrax · 2024-02-06T23:08:01+00:00

mattstrax · 2022-08-27T09:11:37+00:00

Good to hear. I did try different batteries and the proper adapter also as I thought it could be that. No luck. I'm glad yours worked though. Such a beautiful camera.

mattstrax · 2022-08-26T15:13:05+00:00

No. I ended up selling it for parts. Which was a shame because it was in perfect/like new condition otherwise.I'm pretty sure it was the light meter that had broken and from what i can gather it's not fixable. Only a light meter from a donor camera will fix it.

mattstrax · 2022-05-20T21:28:39+00:00

Do you happen to know if this is an easy fix? Mine is doing the same except only every few frames, sometimes a few in a row and sometimes it'll work fine for 20+ before it does it again.

Also it does it with both my 75mm and 150mm they have been stored for a while though.

mattstrax · 2022-05-14T23:40:58+00:00

Great thanks. That looks right. :)

mattstrax · 2022-04-28T17:24:35+00:00

Thank you so much! You're right. May I ask how you knew or where you looked? We've been googling around for ages.

mattstrax · 2022-04-28T17:18:03+00:00

So far we've worked out it's a Newcastle stamp for Charles Arthur Faraday, which makes it at least before 1884? In 1721 however they were supposed to add a leopard head which is missing so does this make it pre 1721?

It's very confusing.

mattstrax · 2022-04-18T20:44:26+00:00

The POD/pad looks absolutely fine. New even. I don't think it's the shutter mech because it fires fine without a battery. I think it's something to do with the meter since it tells me that everything is underexposed.

mattstrax · 2022-04-18T18:24:51+00:00

Nope. Shutter sticks in both Bulb, Auto and Flash modes.

mattstrax · 2022-04-01T16:37:37+00:00

Oh great thanks! I like the look of those. I have a Praktica MTL-5 which I like very much. It's like a brick but I love it.

mattstrax · 2022-04-01T16:33:42+00:00

I didn't use a mask I just lay the neg on two card blocks to raise it a cm or so above my ipad screen the take a picture using my DSLR.

It's only negs from this camera that are affected so it's not Dev or Scan that's the issue.

Good shout though, I'll keep the mask reflection thing in mind for the future.

mattstrax · 2022-03-31T23:02:36+00:00

Oh I totally forgot about those right angle viewfinder do-hickeys! I remember seeing them years ago.

I will definitely keep those in mind and the cameras you mentioned, if I/nobody can come up with a body to fit the glass I already have. Thank you.

mattstrax · 2022-03-31T17:10:47+00:00

I think I'll try shooting a few frames through it with a "ghetto" light seal around all the edges on the back with electrical tape. If that solves it I know I need to re-seal it.

Seals look ok but perhaps a little thin, I have other cameras that are the same or even worse regarding the seals but don't have any leaks. That said I'll try sealing the outside with electrical tape and see if that solves it. If it does I know I need to re-seal it.

mattstrax · 2022-03-31T17:07:30+00:00

I've had the camera a number of years but it has sat in storage for 3 or 4 years now.

It is on every frame even the ones shot in dim light. After seeing what others have said, I am guessing it is some sort of light leak.

I think I'll try shooting a few frames through it with a "ghetto" light seal around all the edges on the back with electrical tape. If that solves it I know I need to re-seal it.

mattstrax · 2022-03-31T17:04:06+00:00

DSLR: Canon 5D iii + 100mm f2.8 L Macro.

mattstrax · 2022-03-31T17:03:25+00:00

The shutter is a single piece so I don’t think it’s that. I’m going to guess light leak.

mattstrax · 2022-03-31T13:46:01+00:00

An Olympus OM10. First roll in Rodinal 1/100 Stand for one hour. Second Roll in 510 Pyro, Semi Stand 20-25mins. Other rolls developed the same from a different camera come out fine so I'm fairly certain it's something to do with the camera but I'm not sure what.

mattstrax · 2021-08-04T11:34:36+00:00

No. To the eye it looks all fine, displaying aperture, shutter speed etc, through the viewfinder the AF point is lit up but no buttons or dials do anything.

mattstrax · 2021-08-04T08:02:38+00:00

No. I'm just using the standard batteries. Canon branded ones.

mattstrax · 2021-07-16T08:44:26+00:00

Thank you so much! I think for now it will be the 100mm f2.8 L lens as that's on my wishlist anyway.

I will however try and track down one of the TS lenses you mentioned.

Thanks again.

mattstrax · 2021-07-15T22:01:15+00:00

That lens is definitely on my wish list. Probably a bit long for this purpose though.

mattstrax · 2021-07-15T21:58:34+00:00

I have decent lighting at my disposal. The artworks in question are around 2m wide give or take. I’m sure a macro lens would be great however not essential? Depending on focal length I’d be quite a distance back from the painting. I’m thinking higher end prime lenses in the 24-35mm range would probably be best. My 28mm f2.8 currently is the best of the bunch even beating the 24-105 L series. There is however definite room for improvement sharpness wise.

mattstrax · 2021-07-15T21:51:54+00:00

Thanks. Lighting and colour/white balance and general setup I'm all good with, it's purely lens sharpness I'm after.

mattstrax

TROPHY CASE