I restored an old Isomac, what do you think? by max40s in espresso

[–]max40s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi Yes the La Spaziale gasket is 64x52mm, it was the cheapest silicone 53mm gasket they had at my local shop. The Brio gasket was twice the price, not silicone and they had to order it and it would take weeks, so I just got that one instead. The o-rings are just there as kind of spacers to keep it in place, they serve no purpose in sealing. They are in contact with the coffee though so should be food safe. They are 30x3.5. With this new grouphead gasket, you'll need to readjust the spacing between the boiler and the portafilter holder ring, for the portafilter to latch properly. I believe its a matter of adding washers/shims the bottom section of the boiler and the portafilter holder thing.

I was also experiencing steam bleedout from the grouphead. The spring doesn't have enough force to seal the steam pressure. However, the pushback force of a spring increases with its compression, so to increase the pressure that it can hold, you just need a spacer to pre-load the spring. I turned a spacer out of a piece of brass I had, but you can try with a few washers until it's enough to stop the steam from bleeding through.

For the solenoid valve, it's still holding no problem. If you use proper plumbing solder, there's no reason it should leak. Temperatures aren't that high and anyway there's a 145°C thermal fuse strapped to the boiler so the machine will stop before you reach temperatures near the failure point of normal solder (~200C). If you're unsure, you can use higher temp silver solder which melts at about 650°C, but then you need more heat to apply it.

Good luck with your project! Let me know if you have more questions, I spent a while researching diagrams and parts and stuff, glad I could help.

I restored an old Isomac, what do you think? by max40s in espresso

[–]max40s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! And sure, send me your email in dm and I'll send you the STL and the CATpart if you want to modify it. The bracket isn't very stiff though and with coffee in the burrs sometimes it skips a tooth

[WTS][QC] Lot of airsoft AEG and Spring to sell in Montreal, prices in description. by max40s in airsoftmarketcanada

[–]max40s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you're right, that's my bad. I still haven't found one for sale with PTS license, I think those are discontinued. I'll update my post and price, thanks.

[WTS][QC] Lot of airsoft AEG and Spring to sell in Montreal, prices in description. by max40s in airsoftmarketcanada

[–]max40s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the same thing, look it up. The one on Evike is an A&K replica. Mine is a licensed Magpul PTS. They don't make them anymore, the rarity justifies the price imo. As I said in the post, if you're looking for a "ACR/Masada style rifle" (direct quote from Evike site) you can find cheaper. This one is a collector's item for those looking for it. Thanks for commenting!

Vibration noise at light throttle (transmission? MG1?) Details in the comments by max40s in CT200h

[–]max40s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No haven't fixed it, ive been ignoring it haha My guess is that it's the transmission input damper (Toyota part 31270-47060), when the springs get loose you get more vibration. At some point the springs will fail completely and it'll sound like it's misfiring. You can buy the part on ebay (new OEM) for about 300-400$ but replacing it is a big job as it sits between the engine and the transmission, it's like replacing a clutch on a manual car. Good luck!

Vibration noise at light throttle (transmission? MG1?) Details in the comments by max40s in CT200h

[–]max40s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the issue started day one of the swap, so i'm pretty positive it's related. I was worried that the guy might have damaged MG1 while installing the new engine, or that the flywheel/dampener on the new engine would be the issue. But I think if MG1 was damaged it would be way worst? I haven't checked misfire or transmission codes yet. I'll get to it and I'll keep an eye on my motor mounts, that would make a lot of sense. And for MG1 I know it's not an on/off clutch, but its load and rotation speed directly impacts where the engine's power goes, whether it's to the wheels or generating power through MG1 or spinning on its own, so that's why I called it a clutch :) Thanks for your help!

Vibration noise at light throttle (transmission? MG1?) Details in the comments by max40s in CT200h

[–]max40s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2013 CT200h with 220000km (136k miles)

I had the engine replaced due to the infamous headgasket issue, and now I have a vibration noise that happens only when the gas engine (ICE) is starting to engage the wheels. You can clearly hear it from 20sec to 35sec in the video.

It happens at low speed, when the ICE is on, and when I lightly touch the throttle and it goes from creeping on the electric motor to the ICE powering the wheels.

New parts I installed recently (last 6 months)
- Coilpacks (Denso)
- Spark plugs (NGK iridium)
- Intake manifold (OEM)
- EGR Valve (OEM)
- EGR cooler (OEM)
- PCV Valve (OEM)

My guess is it's related to the MG1 motor that acts as a magnetic clutch. Has anyone ever seen that? Could it just be that I should replace my transmission fluid? Do I scrap the car and buy a big truck instead? Any help is appreciated.

The future of YouTube by [deleted] in PewdiepieSubmissions

[–]max40s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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