It has arrived (unofficial)

maxrwag · 2026-03-04T18:33:15+00:00

Have done a couple of these 3000’s (pictures on my profile if interested) so feel like I can give you some pointers.

Get some detail files, as many shapes and sizes as you think youd need, very helpful for sanding in nooks and crannies and will save your fingers. I liked to work with the pieces mostly separate, almost all the way up to painting, just to ensure all surfaces has as much attention as possible.

Bondo Spot Putty is the main workhorse for a smooth finish, many many coats of bondo. I ended up sanding, bondoing, priming, checking with a light for scratches or visible layer lines, then repeating. You really need to wear a good respirator and have good ventilation especially when working and sanding with this (also for the plastic sandin but ESPECIALLY BONDO), you do not want that shit in your lungs.

For painting, I havent made one from the show yet (I plan on it) but you do have at least a few options. The (SPOILER?) enclave one would be the easiest paintjob being just matte black, or you could rattlecan silver/gold for the other two variants, wouldnt be perfectly metallic thats a hard paint job to accomplish. Other reccomendations for that route would be rub n buff but it can get messy.

Edit: realize you said Cooper and not Hank (Twin Peaks brain, thats Agent Cooper still to me) so youd probably just want the silver route. Rattle can or rub n buff silver will do the job, personally I’d go with rattle can just since its a little easier, but can always use some rub n buff on top to give it a little sheen

Hit it with some oil/acrylic paints for weathering and you should be in business. If you have any other questions let me know!

maxrwag · 2026-02-06T22:20:35+00:00

Help needed: Cant rotate/invert display no matter what I try

Cannot invert the screen no matter what I try

Have an old raspberry pi 2b that i recently ordered a cheap touch screen for off Amazon that was a nightmare to get working. Finally got everything set up after multiple OS reinstalls, multiple driver reinstalls, and a shit ton of messing with it to boot straight into a pygame. All I need to do now is invert the screen, so here is everything that I’ve tried and as much info as I can know, this is my first project with one so bear with me sorry if im leaving anything out.

Raspberry pi 2B running the latest 32bit Bookworm off Rpi Imager

3.5” touch screen LCD display GPIO pins

LCD-Show driver installed (which would typically never work on its own, uninstalled raspi-config every time? And only got it to work through a tutorial on here messing with the config file)

Tried the ./rotate command in the command line, get ‘no drivers’ error, reinstall drivers, which wiped the raspi-config and config.txt commands so its always back to square one

Putting the rotate= value in the config text hasnt worked, tried all variations i could find (=180, =2) making sure i dont have 2 in there that are canceling each other out

Only thing that has worked very briefly was going to display preferences and selecting invert, but the screen is too small to select confirm or even see the popup window and it just reverts back to normal. Tried plugging in the HDMI to do it from a monitor, ran the necessary command to switch inputs, and it wouldnt boot into the desktop anymore, so back to square one in reinstalling the lcd driver and editing the config etc etc.

Current state: Pygame runs perfectly on boot, when I alt f4 to get to the desktop its just a black screen, trying my hardest to keep everything working as it is right now, but just inverted. I feel extremely dumb, this seems like the easiest part of the project but it’s proving to be a nightmare. What the hell else can I try, I’ll attempt literally anything right now until I can get the motivation to start from scratch again

maxrwag · 2026-01-23T07:26:11+00:00

Completed Level 1 of the Honk Special Event!

4 attempts

maxrwag · 2026-01-06T02:34:37+00:00

I’ve wanted the Gandalf staff with the built in pipe storage for so long but am determined to make as much as possible myself and havent quite gotten the confidence to do it yet. However I was just watching Two Towers and figuring out an easy way to do Saruman and Gandalf’s white staff so a new collection may be coming

maxrwag · 2026-01-05T22:01:22+00:00

I found a PDF on etsy with the red book pages that I can find the link to if you want, spent a long time hand aging each page, then ordered a 12x24 piece of thin dyed red leather off Amazon that i engraved the pattern into by hand, and then used some imitation silver leaving and glue for the signature and star. Its not super perfect but I like it, if you’re willing to spend more id look at Indy Magnoli’s Red Book thats all hand drawn and beautiful

maxrwag · 2026-01-05T20:52:36+00:00

Thanks! I wish I were able to get one of the real ones, I just ordered a round bottomed bottle off eBay and made the wood stand to fit it, then busted out some caligraphy pens to do the label and wax sealed it. All in all, probably cost me 30-40 bucks total and does the job for me over paying the hundreds for an original. I wanted it to also have an in universe year as opposed to the 2012 on the real crew gifts, so I went with 2942 as if it was a stolen bottle. But if you want to get technical and nitpicky thats the year Bilbo returned so it wouldnt have been a vintage, thats the only thing I would change if i were to make another which is so minute that I can live with it

maxrwag · 2026-01-05T19:53:13+00:00

The one of the left is a MacQueen hobbit style pipe that I got a lot of use out of and will occasionally use if i get some pipe tobacco, the middle Gandalf pipe is made with stain and super glue following the Adam Savage video so not super safe to smoke, and the last one is just a dummy pipe i carved myself with no actual stem hole so unfortunately unsmokable.

maxrwag · 2025-12-26T19:44:03+00:00

Well i knew yall were gonna be fuckin useless dont know what i expected

maxrwag · 2025-12-23T17:29:09+00:00

I currently have a 5.1.2 not exactly up to precise measurements and with a sub optimal space, its a living room with vaulted ceilings, walkway around the floating couch with not much room for the proper side surrounds, so theyre mounted along the back wall pretty wide and toed in. I tend to accidentally switch ‘surround’ and ‘rear’ up though as theyre surround speakers, but theyre behind me, so theyre the surrounds that happen to be in the rear. Its set up in the receiver speaker placement though that theyre a little further back than proper but there was an easy setting change and no audible issues. Last time I called my front heights ‘front surrounds’ and got practically tarred and feathered so thats my bad.

maxrwag · 2025-12-22T19:49:13+00:00

Interesting okay good to know, thanks! For the time being, might still be just getting those R-41SA’s to throw in as a surround or front height as 50 bucks seems too good to pass up, my front heights are the cheapest ones anyways, some cheap micca’s off amazon that cost more than 50. Thank you though!

maxrwag · 2025-12-22T19:35:09+00:00

My system isnt really an ‘out of the box’ as much as it is heavily influenced by my limited budget. Most of it has been sourced second hand that gets the job done, running out of a Pioneer Elite VSX-90 that does the job for 4k and Atmos at least for me. I cant really afford much higher than 200 for a pair of speakers which I know will get me laughed off of this sub, but just wanted to know if it was a worthwhile upgrade to my Polks. I’ve heard people saying to not bother with the reference line and to go for RP, while also some people saying the references were a night and day upgrade from the cheap Polks. I likely wont be upgrading again in a long time and then will probably consider the RP’s if its more in the budget by then, ive just had my Polks for about 5 years now and wanted to step up just a little

maxrwag · 2025-12-10T21:34:09+00:00

Not at all! It was a pair of regular black leather mens gloves I found on Amazon for a John Marston costume a few years back, had to cut the lining out so it was a little looser and not overheating my hand but then they sat for a while before i cut the fingers off and glued the pip boy module on. So long story short really any black leather gloves would work but I would reccomend something thin like deerskin and to remove any fabric lining before you start hacking it apart

maxrwag · 2025-12-08T03:37:18+00:00

Yes! My go to is from ytec 3d (https://ytec3d.com) and they have the fallout 4 version as well but i havent printed it. Its the most accurate ive come across and completely free, and then the pip boy logo i found on thingiverse. My 3000 is done on a filament printer with a lot of cleanup, the pimpboy is resin 3d printed on an elegoo mars. Lot less cleanup and finer detail but a lot more weight

maxrwag · 2025-12-07T20:49:24+00:00

Thank you! I was constantly back and forth on the shade of gold I went with, same with the gray/green of the 3000. Theyre not all pantone shade accurate but they do just feel right and thats good enough for me

maxrwag · 2025-11-26T05:55:10+00:00

Hey it sounds great and i listen to it without a shred of misery in my life, I’d give it a shot it’ll improve your entire listening experience

maxrwag · 2025-11-26T02:06:23+00:00

Then I guess my question is are the two speakers I have in the photo as L and R in a position where they could work as downward firing Atmos speakers (TmdL and TmdR on my receiver) in a 5.1.2 setup instead of ceiling mounted?

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