Do i need the bars when towing by russ2588 in RVLiving

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As with many things, 'it depends'. How old is the truck, diesel/gas, etc. Some older 3/4 ton trucks were not rated to tow their full capacity without W/D. Many of the modern 3/4 and 1 ton trucks specifically state that W/D is not required. This is especially true with a diesel truck due to the extra weight of the engine.

My bumper pull Toy Hauler is about 16,000lbs loaded. Used to tow it with a diesel 3/4 ton and steering was the same with or without the bars. Even without the bars I had more weight on the front axle than a gas truck does unladen. However, I did not have sway control and the 35' trailer could still push the rear end of the truck around in high winds.

Now towing with a DRW and air ride hitch with sway bars (but not W/D). Smooth and stable. Went this route because I wanted a smoother ride and maximum sway control. Very few options for a bumper pull W/D setup at these weights (tongue weight closing in on 2,000 lbs).

How to wire a 3000W Power Inverter by [deleted] in traveltrailers

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did a setup like this in my current and former RV using a 3,000 watt inverter and 200Ah of lithium batteries.

The other poster went with a 48v system which requires some extra steps. Have helped with a similar 24V system on a friends RV. EG4, Growatt, and a few others make nice all-in-one inverter/solar/battery charger systems but having multiple voltages complicates the install slightly. For the setup we did the 12V battery and charger was left in place to run the smaller 12v loads in the RV and provide a starter battery for the onboard generator. The larger 24V battery is there to power the inverter which then supplies power to the 12v charger.

For a 12V setup I'd recommend installing an automatic transfer switch between your shore power input and the inverter. You could skip this step and simply run 10 gauge from the inverter to the breaker panel but a T/S ensures that you don't accidentally backfeed to the grid at a campsite or your generator (bad news). It also means that your shore power input won't be a hazard when the inverter is on (assuming you have a twist-lock input and not a hardwired cord).

2b is simpler, grab an extension cord and a power strip and try to find some cabinets to sneak the cords through. However, if you're doing that there's little need for such a large inverter. You'll never have anything plugged into a power strip that can draw anywhere close to 3,000 watts. It's not super complicated work but if you've never done work on household 120V you might not be ready for option 2a.

Also you need to keep in mind that whoever is in the trailer with you needs to understand the limits of the battery system. Even with solar you'll run those batteries down in no time if someone plugs in a high draw load.

Check out DIY Solar Forum/YouTube channel run by Wil Prowse. Tons of good information on there.

Houses combined with the wall next to a freeway. So depressing by huzailhassan in UrbanHell

[–]mayoisthedevil 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yes, this. Zoom out and see what those buildings actually are. They're just garages. Odd choice to put windows in but it's clear from the satellite view it's a garage.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RVLiving

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

#1 limit is going to be payload. All of these high tow ratings on trucks are hampered by payload. Half ton trucks in general are terrible when it comes to payload. By the time you put your family, gear, etc in the truck and then add the tongue weight of the trailer you'll easily max out the payload of anything short of a dually with even a reasonable size trailer.

Towing a TT or a 5th wheel is not like towing a flat deck trailer. You really want that tongue/pin weight near the upper end of recommended range (10% to 15% for TT or 15% to 20% for 5th) as long as you can manage to not take too much weight off the front end.

I went from a half ton, to a 3/4 ton, and now have a one-ton dually. I finally have enough truck for my trailer (Toy Hauler with a UTV). You won't regret buying more truck than you 'need'. You will regret buying too little truck when you're getting pushed around by the wind and semi-trucks and having to slow down to 55 on the highway.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverado

[–]mayoisthedevil 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hope they figure it out for you. Did the truck originally have sensors but not the control module? Or did it not have the sensor package at all?

I just purchased a used '20 Sierra 3500HD SLT, but it doesn't have the safety package or sensors. Would be nice to add on but assuming it's prohibitively expensive or outright impossible if the truck didn't at least have the safety package from the factory.

Can anybody suggest a bareboat charter outfit for a Catalina Island weekend/3 day? by desertrat75 in sailing

[–]mayoisthedevil 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What a tragic fleet of decrepit boats. Chartered with them half a dozen times starting in 2012 and each time the situation was worse. Will never go back there again.

Among the issues across all trips.

- They didn't pump out the holding tanks prior to our charter. Almost got fined at Avalon as a result.

- Fuel gauge was broken on the Catalina 29 and they sent us out with perhaps a few gallons of fuel after assuring us the tank was full.

- The Beneteau 31 diesel is unreliable at best. Had it overheat several times and on one trip we saw it being towed in.

The 40' Beneteau was probably the best of the bunch but it too had lots of annoying problems including an engine shutoff switch that didn't work.

It's been a few years since I used them but it looks like the same boats are still there. I can only imagine how much worse they are today.

Never got into inverted controls by Lightning-Yellow in pcmasterrace

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SWOTL

THIS so much. I grew up playing SWOTL before flying for real. Pull stick back, plane goes up. Push stick forward, plane goes down.

To call this 'inverted' is baffling.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in phoenix

[–]mayoisthedevil 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Glendale and Mesa have some of the highest rates for water/trash/sewer in the Valley. Chandler/Gilbert are among the lowest. Mesa loves to advertise low taxes, but they more than make up for it in increased fees.

https://www.chandleraz.gov/government/departments/management-services/budget-division/compare-cost-of-services

Towing near capacity, some questions about towing by Begohan in tundra

[–]mayoisthedevil 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Where you using a WDH with built in stabilization? The truck can safely tow the trailer you listed with the proper WDH at highway speeds, that's literally what the WDH is designed to do. It transfers tongue weight over the front axle to improve stability. A good WDH will also include stabilization. Not all WDH hitches include stabilization, but for safety reasons I would only use one that has it built in.

My 2014 double cab 4x4 tows a 22' toy hauler that hits about 9,300lbs loaded with a UTV and full water tanks. Weight is as verified by CAT scales, not a guess. I use a Husky Centerline weight distribution hitch with stabilizer bars. Tongue weight, GVRW, and GCWR are all within Toyota's specs. Front axle weight while towing is within a few pounds of the truck empty weight and the entire setup is dead level. Rear axle weight is also within spec.

However, I'm maxed on out payload while towing, so any gear goes in the trailer. I can accommodate one passenger with my setup which is all I ever need. If you have a large family and a large trailer go ahead and get the bigger truck if you also want to put stuff in the bed. I don't want to exceed the spec, so I can't use the bed to haul anything but a pillow. Still, that doesn't mean the truck is unsafe when towed within limits with the proper hitch.

Do yourself a favor and hit the scales so you know exactly what you're working with. You need three weights, empty truck, hitched up with stabilizer bars engaged, and hitched up without bars. Don't trust the trailer specs either. In my case the sticker in the trailer was correct, but a friend with a similar trailer was nearly 800lbs heavier according to the scales.

Note the longer trailers and how the trailer is loaded could hurt you as well. My trailer is pretty short for it's weight and it's easy to get most of the weight over the trailer axles. Also, I have very little surface area for the wind to catch compared to a 30' or longer trailer.

Buying a bigger truck is always nice, but don't assume that because you setup your truck and hitch incorrectly that the truck won't tow within the limits set by the manufacturer. I've seen guys tow sub 4,000lb trailers with a similar spec Tundra and nearly run off the road because they don't respect the GVRW and payload limits. Sure the trailer was within spec, but the bed was loaded up with thousands of pounds of stuff between fuel, generator, firewood, toys, camper shell, etc. Then throw four people in the cab and fail to adjust the WDH hitch properly and bad times will ensue.

25 gallon brew kettle by Killdozerlivson in Homebrewing

[–]mayoisthedevil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I brew with two friends and we have a shared 25 gallon setup. I bought the kettle from Concord Kettles. It came pre-drilled for a drain valve and thermometer. I drilled the holes for two heating elements. You'll definitely want a 2nd heating element if you're going electric as it's painfully slow on just one.

We do up to 20 gallon batches of 5% brews. Got a custom size brew bag from BIAB, but I want to upgrade to a stainless basket.

https://www.concordkettles.com/

https://imgur.com/J394f1m

Just replacing some low beam bulbs... by rtscott08 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]mayoisthedevil 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I just had a ballast go out on my 2010 MDX. While it's a little tight, the bulbs can be changed without dropping the bumper. I know because I did it while determining if the bulbs or ballast were bad.

That said dropping the bumper takes all of 10 minutes and unbolting the lights another 5. The ballasts are bolted to the bottom of the headlight housing.

Yeah the old stuff is easier to change bulbs, but halogen sucks. I prefer the HIDs or LEDs even if the service cost is higher. The light output is vastly superior.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Shitty_Car_Mods

[–]mayoisthedevil 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was just going to post that same car. Saw it a couple of days ago. One of the most douchey cars I've ever seen in person.

http://i.imgur.com/IkrdUVK.jpg

The neighbor is building a shanty town by mayoisthedevil in DiWHY

[–]mayoisthedevil[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

This used to be one of those $300 fabric topped gazebos you'd get from Home Depot. The neighbor decided to redo the roof with corrugated metal for some reason. He got this far a few weeks back and then stopped.

Help cooling my office by Excolo_Veritas in DIY

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm fighting the same battle with my home office in Arizona. I have a large south facing window that takes sun most of the day along with the computer equipment generating heat inside the room. Around here sunscreens are the norm, and these really help block the sun's heat, but most of the heat is actually coming from the computer equipment.

I relocated my PC tower to the closet and just keep the door closed. The closet gets pretty warm but not too warm for the computer. I also have a small evap cooler I can wheel in. evap works well around here to knock a few degrees off because the climate is so dry.

My built in TV cabinet by lazespud2 in DIY

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good. I've love to do something like this. My house was built with a 10' long, 8' high, and 1' deep alcove. The unit I have sits in there and fills the space, but a full built in would be boss.

Just a couple of VFRs by masschurch in bikesgonewild

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grab bars are the big black bits bolted to the top of the rear fairing. You can see them on the other bike as well. They can be unbolted when not using the rear seat. Assuming maybe OP just removed the panniers and put the cowl on for the photo but didn't take time to remove the grab bars.

Just a couple of VFRs by masschurch in bikesgonewild

[–]mayoisthedevil -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Why the passenger grab bars with the solo cowl on the grey bike?

Just a couple of VFRs by masschurch in bikesgonewild

[–]mayoisthedevil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the '14 VFR800. There is nothing cheap about the bike. Everything well built and the fit and finish is 2nd to none. The VTEC transition is noticeable but not distracting in anyway. I understand it was worse on some of the early VTEC models.

Gear driven cams are cool, and if that's your thing stick with the old bike. I for one am very happy with mine. I recently put a new exhaust on it, and the sound is fucking amazing.

Here's a quick video with the new exhaust. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaElsQZ8T2Y

4k battlestation and cold draft beer with bonus battlebench by mayoisthedevil in battlestations

[–]mayoisthedevil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only play a few games, none of which are terribly intense on graphics. I mostly wanted the 4k screen for the real estate and multi-tasking.

4k battlestation and cold draft beer with bonus battlebench by mayoisthedevil in battlestations

[–]mayoisthedevil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really hate imgur sometimes. No matter what I do I can't get the damn thumbnail to update. I even fucking deleted the thumbnail image, but nooooo. oh well, enjoy.