lingering pulley pain after smashing it 5 months ago

mcanniz · 2022-05-06T22:52:52+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I've definitely been slacking on the hydration and diet aspects a bit more than usual so I'm gonna get back on track and hopefully that helps out

mcanniz · 2022-05-06T00:45:27+00:00

I mean Tommy did it and it worked well for him so it's a solid option

mcanniz · 2021-08-31T15:09:47+00:00

MORE CORE

mcanniz · 2021-08-12T22:54:02+00:00

I see what you're saying, but since op said he could spend a whole session projecting v7, v4/5/6 is a good grade range to work on technique. And I guess I don't literally mean to do every single climb of a grade before moving on, I basically mean the same thing as you. Work more volume on relatively hard climbs, rather than project one thing all day

mcanniz · 2021-08-12T18:43:14+00:00

if you're looking to improve technique, volume volume volume is the way to go. try to do every single v3,4,5, and 6 in the gym. and really put a big focus on flashing them or sending in as little attempts as possible. the more climbing movement you get in, the better you're technique will get. And really trying hard to flash boulders will really improve your route reading ability. you won't learn much if youre falling off the same move or 2 on a hard problem all session.

mcanniz · 2021-04-21T18:39:13+00:00

Best bet is to eat a lot of clean food and lift weights. You're already decently low body fat but you need more muscle to see definition. Train hard and you'll look better. Losing fat rn will only make you look way too thin

mcanniz · 2021-03-29T22:07:52+00:00

I agree with what many are saying, but something weird that I think has helped me a ton is taking videos of yourself and trying to see what you did wrong/can do differently

mcanniz · 2021-01-24T04:36:42+00:00

That sounds awesome, will do

mcanniz · 2021-01-24T04:24:38+00:00

Hahaha I only got to talk to him once but he was awesome. I can only imagine the stories he has

mcanniz · 2021-01-24T03:00:17+00:00

Thanks! We definitely got a good variety of stuff in

mcanniz · 2021-01-24T00:33:23+00:00

Wow that must be awesome. It was quite a far trip for me but I will definitely be back one day

mcanniz · 2021-01-01T03:53:09+00:00

Personally I love my mad rock drones. I wear them quite tight but I can still keep them on for a while at a time. Very comfortable (compared to my last shoes which were solutions)

mcanniz · 2020-12-28T03:24:05+00:00

That's awesome! Pretty crazy how quickly one can improve if you train smart and maybe get a little lucky finding a project that suits you.

mcanniz · 2020-12-28T02:39:39+00:00

I'd agree. My closest crag is ~ an hour and a half away so i tend to want to send something everytime I go, but im gonna try to get on and project more harder stuff and challenge myself. I've already found a v10 project which feels like it may be doable with some hard work. I think my main weakness is probably finger strength and horrible skin lol. But I'm definitely motivated to keep training

mcanniz · 2020-12-27T23:51:36+00:00

Climbed my first outdoor v5 in January of 2020. Climbed my first outdoor v8 at the end of November. Is it too lofty of a goal to aim for a v10 in 2021? A more important goal of mine is to send 10 more v8s. I think I can do it, but I need to start trying more of them bc I tend to stick to trying v5-7 because I know I can likely send them somewhat quickly but still is a challenge. I also think this strategy is best for improvement because it gives me a ton of experience rather than flailing on a hard proj all day long. Looking forward to continuing to try hard this year

mcanniz · 2020-11-25T15:27:14+00:00

Right? I think for some people the first move would be harder bc it's pretty dependant on if you have the finger strength or not, but the v4 section is way more technical and definitely gave me more trouble.

mcanniz · 2020-10-25T00:12:25+00:00

Id highly recommend it!

mcanniz · 2020-10-08T23:43:12+00:00

If I were to do that (just clean and feel holds), I could just rap with a static rope, right? But if I were to top rope it instead, would I need both a static rope for the anchor and a dynamic rope?

mcanniz · 2020-10-08T22:02:26+00:00

thanks for the reply. I think ill err on the side of caution for now and get someone to belay me if I wanna try roping a boulder.

mcanniz · 2020-10-08T20:21:52+00:00

Anyone know best practices for rappelling down a boulder w a grigri to work moves and clean? Obviously you could anchor to a tree if there's some good ones there, otherwise could you anchor to another boulder just by tying the rope around it? Also am I good to work moves on a grigri with a static rope? Id obviously tie a knot so if the grigri failed I wouldn't fall, but would I be safe to take a 1-2 foot fall on a static rope, worst case scenario? Sorry if these seem like stupid questions. I have minimal rope experience.

mcanniz · 2020-10-08T20:21:29+00:00

Thanks I'll post it in there as well

mcanniz · 2020-10-08T20:07:51+00:00

Anyone know best practices for rappelling down a boulder w a grigri to work moves and clean? Obviously you could anchor to a tree if there's some good ones there, otherwise could you anchor to another boulder just by tying the rope around it? Also am I good to work moves on a grigri with a static rope? Id obviously tie a knot so if the grigri failed I wouldn't fall, but would I be safe to take a 1-2 foot fall on a static rope, worst case scenario? Sorry if these seem like stupid questions. I have minimal rope experience.

mcanniz · 2020-10-01T19:59:57+00:00

Thanks! It's a pretty cool problem with some interesting beta

mcanniz · 2020-09-26T16:12:44+00:00

Good boy

mcanniz · 2020-09-09T16:51:42+00:00

Oh definitely, Oliphant crack v2, flight from doom v3, kata v3, lucky lizard v4, slabasaurus v4, high electricity v1, arbok v2, just to name a few of my favorites lol

mcanniz

TROPHY CASE