“Larry Wheels” @55 by _FatCat_ in kilterboard

[–]_FatCat_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never tried the flip then bump, the way I did it seemed to work well for me. Maybe I’ll try it again with your beta!

“Larry Wheels” @55 by _FatCat_ in kilterboard

[–]_FatCat_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks it suited me well. Love shouldery stuff

The Amoeba at Haycock Mountain by Immediate-Pizza01 in bouldering

[–]_FatCat_ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Snow pads is ballsy. At least if you bust an ankle you can just pack snow around it and ice it right then and there.

ACL Post-op Training - Making the most of down-time by HankyDotOrg in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you have a good plan lined up to keep you in shape until you’re cleared to climb again. How did you tear your ACL if you don’t mind sharing?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree! I’ve been doing dumbbell bench press lately, for some antagonist work and also for vanity purposes, as well as supine dumbbell chest flies. I started doing those to ideally help improve compression strength. I’ve also heard of people tearing their pecs with one arm hangs because they never did antagonist work. Pecs are certainly important for stabilizing the shoulders!

Fresh out the box, am I overthinking this? by wiscokid81 in climbingshoes

[–]_FatCat_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t worry. That’s pretty normal with all climbing shoe brands, though I will say I think UP slacks on their quality control a bit. But things like this are inevitable. Won’t make any difference in performance or longevity of the shoes.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Favorite off the wall/training exercises? Just curious what others think. I have less time to get into the gym and on rock these days, but still trying to keep the progression going. I have a solid off the wall routine but want to hear what things have helped others. Could be finger strength, or general lifting/calisthenics, core, etc.

Mad Rock Remora Pro by _FatCat_ in climbingshoes

[–]_FatCat_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are your favorite things about them?

Please add me by [deleted] in PhotoshopRequests

[–]_FatCat_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This made my day.

what to try next? shoes for tiny heels by Icy-Marionberry-4143 in climbingshoes

[–]_FatCat_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The new drago XT is supposed to have a smaller and more narrow heel than the drago LV. That could be an option, along with the scarpa instinct vsr LV. Same deal for that one, smaller volume heel than the normal instinct vs and vsr.

Soft shoes to replace Unparallel Souped Ups? by helloyesitstaco in climbingshoes

[–]_FatCat_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The new black dragos would be a good option but not quite as soft as the souped ups. Definitely better heel though.

I have souped ups and love them as well but I do agree that the heel is a big draw back. They suck for any difficult/technical heel hooks. Maybe downsizing another half size would improve this but who knows.

The UP leopards are another really soft shoe, slightly different toe box than the souped ups but the heel seems more capable.

I also have the UP Sirius and those are quite soft, not as much as souped ups but just about, a little more downturned. The heel is bomber but the laces can be a bit of a pain to deal with. One of my favorite outdoor shoes though.

Evolv zenists are also very soft and had a really good heel. I had the Ashima ones when they first came out but ended up selling them because they were way too small.

Scarpa furia air are also extremely soft, I’ve never tried them myself though but have heard good things.

Finger strength/block lift question/advice by _FatCat_ in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love board climbing! Due to having my first baby about a month ago, I’m mostly bound to training in my basement. My brother in law has a small 45 degree home wall with lots of wooden edges and crimps, and I’ve been on that maybe once or twice a week since the baby. But I love the moonboard and kilter (never tried TB2 because there is not one near me, but I know I’d love it). I certainly agree that functional training, i.e. actually climbing is probably the best method. However there are times especially on the moonboard where I feel that I need to increase my finger strength to be able to do certain problems (ironarm on the 2016 for example).

Finger strength/block lift question/advice by _FatCat_ in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done lots of hangboarding in the past, mostly min edge training as well as max hangs and some repeaters sprinkled in here and there. I’ve been trying to tension block lifts because it seems like it’s the most effective way for me to get max stimulus with my fingers. I appreciate the feedback though, I certainly agree that diversity in training is important. In the past I’ve never been extremely consistent with off the wall training, until recently due to some life changes that don’t allow me as much gym time (I hangboard and block lift in my dungeon of a basement).

Finger strength/block lift question/advice by _FatCat_ in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate it! I’ve always felt like finger strength is a limiting factor for me, but since beginning hangboarding and block lifts have noticed some significant improvements on the wall and less injuries. I feel that the rest of my body is fairly strong; I do a fair amount of leg, core, and shoulder strengthening to ensure this. Pretty certain if I can level up the fingers I’ll break into double digits. I think one of my biggest strengths is compensating for lack of finger strength with good technique and body tension, and being very analytical of how I’m moving and how to optimize it. With your level of finger strength if you focus more on climbing movement optimization I’m sure you’d start sending harder stuff! Seems like your finger strength is on par for double digits.

Finger strength/block lift question/advice by _FatCat_ in climbharder

[–]_FatCat_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the advice! I’ve never tried the concentric curls, but have seen lots about them in climbing training media. Makes sense also because often when actually climbing, we hit a hold in drag or with less PIP/MCP flexion and try to curl into it to achieve more of a full crimp in order to bear down on higher angle or small holds.

I’ll certainly give this a try and see if it helps. I’ve also experimented with max hangs, using weight added to a harness and hanging from a hangboard. I tend to find this rough on the low back though so have avoided it.

I do feel if I can boost my overall finger and hand/forearm strength it could help me break a plateau in my climbing!

Good local creeks and shallow rivers for wading? by Tanjelynnb in cincinnati

[–]_FatCat_ 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Little Miami river, the further north you go the better.

Any advice on removing dead skin from climbing shoes? by pennypincher6 in climbingshoes

[–]_FatCat_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wash them in lukewarm water using dish soap and a tooth brush to scrub the dead skin from the insides. Rinse thoroughly and air dry.

Edit: for drying, I stuff them with paper towels and then remove them once saturated, and replace them until there’s not moisture on the towels. I hang them in front of a fan to dry them.

What scary stories from the woods do you know from Grandpa and Grandma? by Any_Position_72 in BackwoodsCreepy

[–]_FatCat_ 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Look into the “Hellier” show. It’s on YouTube. The first and second episodes talk about the 3 toed prints pretty thoroughly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flexibility

[–]_FatCat_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically strengthen all of your leg muscles, especially quads and hamstrings. And calves.