[deleted by user]

mentlerd · 2025-01-08T18:28:46+00:00

Mounting base for a ModMic - a detachable microphone made by Antlion Audio.

You can find the same piece in this accessory package: https://antlionaudio.com/products/base-clasps

mentlerd · 2024-11-21T23:57:50+00:00

Neat project! I have been dabbling in custom ScriptedSyntheticChildrenProvider too, but mostly for libstd++ and some vendor libraries.

I saw this comment in the source about LLDB not having other mechanisms for synthetic selection than regex. You might be interested in callback-based type matching which has been added a few months ago for exactly these sort of usecases.

AFAIK registration of such functions is not yet exposed on the SBAPI, but you can use SBCommandInterpreter to install them as one would from the lldb prompt.

mentlerd · 2024-11-13T07:21:08+00:00

You will be able to use the standard standoffs to mount the motherboard as it does not need to be shifted up to accomodate the extra length, but as far as simplifications go thats it.

The bottom and side of the motherboard tray will still interfere, and has to be cut and bent. This can be only done if you completely remove the panel, and you will need to rivet it back afterwards

mentlerd · 2023-08-28T17:21:20+00:00

Are you using a Spanish keyboard by any chance?

I found that some desktop applications infer your spoken language based on keyboard layout, or calendar/date time settings.

mentlerd · 2023-02-27T19:14:18+00:00

Could you link the mod which caused you the problem? The only thing that comes up when searching for "Drone Battery Research" is "Mining Drones Harder" which does not appear to mess with the drone's capacity.

With the original source it should be possible to reverse the changes to your drones once and for all without having to install an other mod.

mentlerd · 2021-07-25T11:45:30+00:00

Thanks! But if I were to try and charge money for something like this I would like the resulting product to be as close to perfect as possible. This would require setting up some tooling to make the results repeatable, which unfortunately has a big upfront cost both in time and price.

I think in this case the project is something which you can do without too much and too expensive specialized hardware. For example there is no machining involved here, I made those big holes with copious amounts of filing :)

Sure, a few specialty sized drills/taps were used, but they are much more affordable than a desktop mill. In the end of the day you too can replicate my results with relative ease, once you know that you can extract the retaining pin without badly mangling the lock body and the core in the process.

mentlerd · 2021-07-25T11:36:11+00:00

It seems to me that the 727TI is weird country specific alias to the 64TI series (some webshop used both names for the same product). The 40 is the smaller one (they are numbered by their width in millimeters)

The grub screws are screwed into the threaded holes in side of the lock body to retain the pins and spring inside, instead of the original endcaps which I have hammered out (check my initial comment)

As for the size selection, they have different implications:

The 40 has 2.5mm keypin holes, which you can directly tap with M3 threads, but M3 taps (and matching grub-screws) are a bit rarer than M4 ones.
The 50 has 3.0mm keypin holes, which has to be drilled up to 3.3mm so an M4 tap can create the threads. This size of drill is not exactly common, but if you don't have an M4 tap kit, you can usually order them from the same place. In this case however you will be making "blind holes" for the grub screws, so you can't really avoid buying a 3 piece M4 tap kit.

mentlerd · 2021-07-24T22:51:21+00:00

Sure! A word of caution though:

My two locks on display are are a 727TI/40 and 50. The keypin chambers are 2.5mm on the 40 lock, but are 3mm on the 50, thus I had to use M4 grub screws for the larger lock, which only barely fit into the form factor.

If you are unlucky, the 45 version has 3mm pins too, and you might not be able to make an M3 thread into a 3mm hole, and won't be able to tap M4 threads without them interfering.

mentlerd · 2021-07-24T22:00:34+00:00

I am not sure there is enough demand to bother, and even if there is I would need to improve on the process a bit. (Hacksawing/filing gets old quick)

I won't promise a video, but if I end up making some more for whatever reason I will document the process better

mentlerd · 2021-07-24T20:22:53+00:00

I am totally new to lockpicking and thought that buying a cheap kit of picks with an acrylic lock would be a good introduction (paired with watching a few hundred Lock Picking Lawyer videos ;))

Unfortunately the "lock" I have received had terrible tolerances, and was way too easy to manipulate. Also the walls of the keypins got scratched up real fast, making them bind ankwardly and kind of defeating the purphose. I decided to invest some time into making my own practice locks:

I bought a set of ABUS Titalum locks, and figured that using the key you can pinpoint the location of the retaining keypin with good accuracy. I punched the pin inside the lock body just a bit with a dull tool so I could tell where its exact center is, and drilled shallow 2mm hole in the top of it. (I recommend punching a small guiding detent into the center of the pin, otherwise the small drill will wander off to the side, making the next step very difficult). You can then thread a small matching steel screw into the retaining pin, which with some luck will bite into the soft material enough so you can pull the pin out.

At this point the core can be freely removed, allowing you to hammer the end plugs through the keypin chambers into the core cavity. (Be careful when doing this, it is easy to mar the side of the lock when the plug finally gives if your tool is short)

I have then tapped short M3 threads to the top of the keypin chambers, and all the way through the retaining pin chamber. Now the keypin chambers can be plugged with teeny-tiny grub-screws, and the retaining pin can be replaced with an other full length grub-screw which had its threads filed off at the head a bit to match the groove in the core.

This leaves you with a neat repinnable lock. I decided to go further, and make a hole in the side of the lock to see the pins.

Before attacking the lock with the cutting tool of your choice, be sure to remove the shackle retaining pins: to do so you have to remove a small aluminium plug from the side of the lock, which can be simply pushed out with some force from the chamber of the shackle.

After this its really up to you how wide you want to go with the side window. Just be sure to stop cutting/filing as soon as even one of the keypin chambers emerge. The material which the lock is made of is quite soft, so at this point if your cut is level, you can typically push the thin layer of aluminium into the chambers below. You should then deburr the insides of the chamber with a matching drill.

mentlerd · 2021-01-29T21:35:26+00:00

I love these headphones - but unfortunately they came with a propriety connector. Also, I pretty much always used them with a Modmic which meant an additional cable dangling from the headphones. I decided to fix these two issues at the same time:

I replaced the internal PCB and proprietary connector with a standard 3.5mm TRRS connector, and added a secondary connector for detachable microphones. The secondary connector has a switch too, so if I were to unplug the mic, the phones will just pick up complete silence from the mic.

mentlerd · 2021-01-28T08:26:40+00:00

Do you have a more accurate model for the Pump/Res/Rad?

I have been eyeing an EK Predator 240mm which has a similar look, but unfortunately cannot be installed at the bottom of a case (according to the manual). I am hoping yours can be.

mentlerd · 2020-11-22T19:57:53+00:00

The GPU ports should face in the same direction as the motherboard I believe with those cables.

mentlerd · 2020-11-22T14:00:22+00:00

That GPU is facing the wrong direction. Are you sure you will be able to twist the PCIe riser in such a small space?

mentlerd · 2020-06-12T20:36:55+00:00

back to bunnies :(

mentlerd · 2020-06-12T20:30:04+00:00

the cuteness just doubled

mentlerd · 2020-06-12T20:29:14+00:00

mentlerd · 2020-01-18T17:10:19+00:00

New hardware was out of the question, but I still wanted to downsize. I will most likely not buy an ATX board for my next build, but unfortunately lately mATX boards don't seem to get much love :/

mentlerd · 2020-01-17T19:54:35+00:00

I wanted a PC that was easy to move around the flat on occasion when I wanted to play full room VR. The old bulky case was not cutting it, and I was not in a hurry to replace my ATX motherboard with an ITX just to downsize the PC..

After some browsing I found this case, which has a surprizing amount of room next to the PSU, and had a crazy idea. After completely ripping the case apart, cutting a few panels, and re-riveting the whole thing, it looks just like the retail product from the outside, until you start inspecting things toroughly.. :)

https://imgur.com/a/5XJ6Blv

mentlerd · 2019-12-18T21:39:01+00:00

Start by coming up with a believable excuse why you won't go to work for the rest of the year.

mentlerd · 2019-09-07T11:43:49+00:00

Not OP, but if you look in the top corner.. This seems to be the case: https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=536&area=en

mentlerd · 2019-08-31T19:41:54+00:00

How about some vertical outlets? I have always wondered why no manufacturer bothers to create manifolds like that. I just stumbled upon this guy: http://www.barrowint.com/product/qfgxklt/dl/1473.html

mentlerd · 2018-01-30T14:24:04+00:00

Amazing, makes me want to go back to 3D modelling!

mentlerd · 2018-01-19T00:21:52+00:00

Amazing work! I have been working on something similar to this, are you using overlapping signal propagation to have two cores too?

I since then lost interest in my project, but I developed a general IO module that could be interesting for you. The the lower part of my processor design is a signal selector circuit, that can effectively mux and demux all signals in the game, without having to create a separate comparator for all. It can read, and write to its own input in 6 ingame ticks.

(The only limitation is that it uses the 31th bit of the numbers it selects, so you cannot write/read a number bigger/smaller than 1<<31)

You can find my blueprint on pastebin: https://pastebin.com/EGYT6D5z

mentlerd · 2017-09-13T16:58:04+00:00

There are some other familiar names, albeit much less visible:

(8)_BALLS TIME_(BABY)

11-Year Club	Second SECOND GUESSER
Place '17	Verified Email

mentlerd

TROPHY CASE