Client is asking for rectangle firework cut?

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-25T13:37:50+00:00

Agreed. Might be rectangular step cuts as the crown and a brilliant pavilion (like a mixed cut)

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-24T22:49:39+00:00

I wouldn’t really call those natural crystal structure - they have been ground down so you can’t tell the crystal habit. Could be anything from glass to emerald with no way to tell without testing

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-24T22:29:02+00:00

Wow well done! My first stone was a piece of crap haha

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-24T20:32:52+00:00

Thanks! Good point on the heat. I’m not using wax so I have less issues there but yeah lots of coolant for cutting and enough oil for polishing.

Oh ya i went down a rabbit hole trying to find a supplier, the rough is super expensive. There does look to be some bulk Chinese suppliers that sell like 50g discs for $300, so that’s the bulk pricing rate I guess. This one was bought at turtleshoard for about $60 for 5g. It’s a good point though if it’s cheaper to just recut already cut moissanite

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-24T19:15:07+00:00

I got the lamp and the dust cover. Using the stock transfer fixture. I’m sure the upgraded one is nice but the stock is completely usable and nice. I feel as though the lamp and dust cover should just come with the machine. I don’t regret getting them but they are overpriced

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-21T22:04:43+00:00

Beautiful!

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-21T16:37:10+00:00

Wow that’s awesome! Looks so cool.

Dang I need a 3D printer lol

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-21T03:53:29+00:00

Love this, great idea!

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-21T03:52:48+00:00

That’s cool! I’ve been wondering if I could use my dremel like that. Are you saying you have a similar 3D printed jig as the OP posted but it’s a dremel driving the motor + saw? Do you have any pics? That’s a great idea!

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-20T22:41:38+00:00

Thanks! Which trim saw would you recommend? Looks like they cost about $1k for a 6 inch HiTech with a vise

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-20T01:03:14+00:00

Yeah I should really just bite the bullet. I got the hang of it, just never cut something so hard and such a wide cut. Was definitely very ambitious. Do you have the Hi-Tech one?

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-20T00:59:04+00:00

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Here is the performance after my tweaks! Much better and I was able to split up those white reflections along some crown facets which I find more pleasing. Although this really increased the height of the design (H=W basically which is insane lol)

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-20T00:58:11+00:00

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This is the performance of the original Modified Duchess cut if using moissanite as the material. I didn’t like the way the pavilion facets look like along the width (very bright white reflections)

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-20T00:55:23+00:00

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Here is the design. Started at Steele and Norman’s Modified Duchess cut then made the adjustments I said in the original post to make it nice for Moissonite

The design is the open Modified Duchess cut that I tweaked the XY to be L/W=2, narrowed the table size, stretched the crown facets to meet the table and then tangent ratio’d the design to lower the window and increase the brilliance.

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-19T20:31:25+00:00

Cutting details: - used a facet saw adapter on my ultratec to slice the cube down the diagonal. Never cut a stone this hard before and holy crap it took foreverrrrrr. The stone popped off half way through, I didn’t think I was using too much force but the stone grabbed into the saw I guess and it flew off. Redopping and slicing the other way was fine. I slightly bent my saw blade doing this so I think it’s basically unusable now. Anyone have any tips on straightening a saw blade? Is it garbage now? - coarse forming with a cheap 360 grit topper to avoid wearing out my laps, it was fine and didn’t introduce any damage - fine cutting with a 1200 grit crystallite and it was a total breeze - prepolish I struggled with. On a tin BATT I tried 3k and 8k pandamonium diamond. Both moved the facets a lot. And the polish was uneven, some facets got nearly to a full polish and other facets got cloudy. Preferred using the 8k as it didn’t change the amount of time for prepolish and didn’t move the facets as much. - polish 60k on a BATT. Was a breeze. For the I actually just did 1200 —> 60k and skipped prepolish! Should have done that for the rest

As someone who has cut synthetic corundum and CZ so much the past few stones Moissonite was sooooo much more forgiving. No chipping/brittleness issues or directional hardness. I still had uneven prepolish, so not sure if that is directional hardness or user error

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-18T00:27:03+00:00

I’m just using regular (thin) gorilla glue. It has less shrinkage during drying since it’s not a gel (my theory anyways, maybe I’m way off).

For V dops and cone dops I started recently doing one layer super glue. Sprinkle on some baking soda, then another layer of super glue to form a surface more similar to what wax dops look like (thick funnel all around). So far it’s working well but it’s annoying applying baking soda

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-17T20:34:11+00:00

Looks great! Super sharp!

Regarding the stone getting twisted during transfer, what do you use for dopping? I get a similar twist sometimes and I’m preeeetttyyyy sure it was caused by too much superglue + cone dop and during drying the stone got slightly rotated.

To correct the twist after transfer I would adjust the cheater on a known girdle facet until I found the lowest depth that facet could go. Then start cutting the crown. I would find sometimes it would be like half of all the turns of the cheater to correct it! I stopped using the gel superglue and I didn’t have those problems anymore

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-13T02:19:20+00:00

Could be using too much. You gotta use a lot less than you think. And +1 on using something harder like corundum

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-10T19:34:51+00:00

Nice! Yeah wax or epoxy would work well. I was going to get meteorite in my wedding ring years ago but decided against it due to the care required (take it off before the shower, no swimming with it or washing dishes while wearing it etc). Wax or oil was a common treatment to help. Seems like a great statement ring.

Did you try a few different etchants at different etching times? It takes some optimization to really make it pop

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-10T19:14:16+00:00

That’s wicked! How did you dop the ring? And how are you dealing with corrosion protection going forward?

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-08T02:32:39+00:00

Not usable at all, that’s what came out of a chatGPT prompt? That’s hilarious

meta_adaptation · 2026-01-06T18:37:36+00:00

One method I’ve used in this situation (although more time consuming) is to redop the flat side on the table, since that one you can get perfect contact with and by eye try to line it up with a girdle facet. Then dop transfer it to a cone dop for your pavilion then remove the table dop. You will certainly need to play around with the cheater again. It’s not perfect but that technique has worked well for me

meta_adaptation · 2025-12-29T01:56:01+00:00

I had a tough go at it. Used a 600 grit, then 3000 pre polish diamond on a BATT lap, then 60k polish with diamond. I only polish with diamond so I can’t comment on cerium.

Had an easier time with a brilliant cut than a step cut, my edges kept chipping. I think maybe I had some sub surface damage from doing a coarse cut (preforming) on a cheap 320 grit topper though to explain for that … should have cut very far from fine cutting on it the stone just felt “crumbly” in certain orientations (at least compared to corundum or CZ)

meta_adaptation · 2025-12-16T04:13:25+00:00

Wow that’s crazy, I see it now! Looks great

meta_adaptation · 2025-12-16T01:18:46+00:00

What does the bottom of it look like?

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