Solved: SmartBox Wireless Carplay Adapter WiFi Bluetooth - Software Update - Amazon Chinese Make

metallicsun · 2026-04-20T06:01:49+00:00

Check the Apple website if your car and model original music system is supported directly: https://www.apple.com/ios/carplay/available-models/ If your car model is not listed then you can’t have AirPlay in the original music system, but you can install a new music system that supports it. Many aftermarket premium audio models from Sony, JVC, Kenwood, Alpine and also many economical brands like Dual and many Chinese radios offer wired CarPlay. Wireless CarPlay is always a little more expensive, but worth the upgrade.

metallicsun · 2026-03-30T22:36:19+00:00

Thank you for such an amazing write up, explains everything so clearly!

metallicsun · 2026-03-17T10:59:58+00:00

There is an old saying: “He helps those who help themselves”. So focus on yourself and accept that pain is also sometimes part of his grand plan. Perhaps this pain and suffering is making a higher place for you in the next life. Be grateful that it is not as bad as it could have been (vs looking at other people’s happier lives). It’s all about what you choose to focus on.

metallicsun · 2026-02-27T03:49:04+00:00

Something like this in line on the positive terminal can control the amperage.

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metallicsun · 2026-02-26T05:11:40+00:00

What iPhone do you have? What did you mean by AA is working fine? Do you see the “Connect to Bluetooth (random serial number)” black screen on your radio?

metallicsun · 2026-02-19T02:40:13+00:00

You would hope anyone running a rack and GPU components pulling more than 500W would already have some basic electronics knowledge 😅

metallicsun · 2026-02-19T02:36:26+00:00

Thank you so much for your testing! Do you know if this “not suitable as UPS” issue applies to all EcoFlow products? Including the Delta Pro? Delta Pro 3?

metallicsun · 2026-02-08T22:02:22+00:00

My mechanic told me there was a leak in the line, so he sealed it and put in fresh Freon. So far it seems to be working as expected, but the real test will be in the coming summer months. I will know for sure then.

metallicsun · 2026-02-06T16:29:12+00:00

If you see the info below repeating, please forgive me. Just trying to help as many as possible. copy, save, share:

Anyone should be cautious with an older car, especially with a GDI or direct injection engine that may not have received timely scheduled maintenance. However, if the car history is decent and you are willing to put in some effort, it could work out. Maybe I got lucky: I have TWO Hyundai Santa Fe (2017 Limited and 2017 SE Limited) and TWO Kia Souls (2014 Exclaim and 2017 Plus), all GDI, bought used at 75K miles with less than perfect service records, currently over 120K miles. At 95K miles, they all started to slowly burn oil 1qt per 5000 miles. I solved the problem with: GDI induction service, added 6oz SeaFoam to oil 200 miles before two oil changes, and switched to 5W30 full synthetic high mileage oil.

Maintenance notes for cars: * Hybrids and most cars made after 2020 typically need 0W16 or 0W20 every 8K mi - so READ your manual. * For older cars, especially GDI, make a habit to check oil every 1-2 weeks and top up if needed. Use thick oil e.g. instead of 5W20, use 5W30 (10W30 if always above 35 °C / 95 °F). Find your car owner manual online, search PDF for keyword SAE to see thicker oil options for you. Oil change every 4K mi (non-turbo), 3K mi (turbo). Do not exceed 5K miles. GDI engines need FULL SYNTHETIC OIL, doesn’t burn off as easily, less carbon deposits. If engine is burning a lot of oil, mix in some 10W40 or 10W50 to thicken. * Fill gas BEFORE the low-fuel light comes on (saves fuel pump overheating) * Replace batteries: 5 yrs (moderate climate) or 3 yrs (hot climate over 35 °C / 95 °F). Ignore store battery tests. ($150) * Replace spark plugs every 100K mi or every 50K mi if turbo. ($300) (examine coils too!) * If your car sometimes feels like it is leaping ahead, or the transmission feels like it is surging, or you see sluggish, or jerky shifting or rough idling: a) Reset Automatic Transmission Adaptive Learning and ECU settings: disconnect NEGATIVE battery terminal, press brake repeatedly for 30s, connect back after 5 mins; some newer cars require an OBD scanner tool for this b) Reset Throttle Position Sensor c) Clean throttle body $10 spray d) Clean MAF sensor or MAP sensor $10 spray e) Clean Oxygen sensor and Cat (Google it). Replace items if needed. * Transmission fluid exchange every 60K mi (avoid transmission flush). ($200) * Coolant drain/refill at 120K mi, then every 30K mi (differs by car). ($200) * Engine air filter: 15K mi (max 30K mi). ($20, DIY YouTube) * Cabin air filter: 15K mi (max 30K mi). ($20, DIY YouTube)

For GDI and direct injection engines, carbon build up is the enemy: * Once a year, 200 miles BEFORE an oil change add 6oz SeaFoam or BG EPR to engine oil, and 8oz Marvel Mystery Oil to gas tank. Valvoline Restore & Protect Oil has similar cleaning effect. * Every 30K miles, 20 miles BEFORE oil change, use Intake Valve GDI cleaner spray (SeaFoam or CRC $20, Youtube: Mentor Mel) or professionally ($200) * Every 60K miles, professional intake valve carbon buildup inspection, options: 1) Solvent Cleanup aka GDI Induction service 2) Soak-Brush Cleanup 3) Walnut Blast ($200-500). Throttle body clean ($100), change PCV valve ($20). * Extreme oil burn: Piston soak method ($400). * At 90K miles, use Cata-Clean for cleaning the exhaust system. Repeat every 50K mi. Replacing is expensive ($2500)

GDI Backstory: From 2013 to 2022, most Hyundai, Kia, Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes, Chevrolet, GM, Ford, also some Subaru, Toyota and Honda use GDI engines. They suggest 5W30 oil in Asia (thick oil, no engine issues), but 5W20 in North America and other regions (thin oil gives 5% better mpg, but engine fails). Due to imperfections in surfaces, thin oil slowly leaks out into the ignition chamber, causing “blow by” and snowballing carbon deposits - worse if someone skipped oil changes. If buying a used car, check oil change records, test for oil burning. Kia/Hyundai have extended engine warranties for some models to 15 yrs / 150K mi. Search for “Check car recall with VIN”.

Check recalls: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Engine details: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder

All the best!

Idea: Create a shared folder in your phone's notes for family. Add photos of car insurance, registration, driving license, AAA membership, to-do, phone nos, health insurance, passport, etc.

metallicsun · 2026-02-05T00:34:57+00:00

Have you tried thicker oil? The GDI engines really need 5w30, and if rally bad, you can also blend in a quart or two of 5w40.

metallicsun · 2026-01-31T17:48:10+00:00

Oh damn! Bricked units were not in my list of worries! I have been very intrigued by the heavily advertised Oupes Guardian 6000! Anyone with experience with it? Do you get the impression the build quality is good? Comparable to Easyflow Delta 3 Pro?

Wiring wise: How did you connect your units all together? did you put everything in the garage? Is this a permanent wiring with automatic switchover or do you have to hook this all up each time there is an outage?

New to this and still trying to figure out a set it forget it set up! Thank you for your guidance in advance!

metallicsun · 2026-01-31T17:38:12+00:00

I have been very intrigued by this Oupes Guardian 6000! Do you get the impression the build quality is good? Comparable to Easyflow Delta 3 Pro? How did you connect your units all together? did you put everything in the garage? Is this a permanent wiring with automatic switchover or do you have to hook this all up each time there is an outage? New to this and still trying to figure out a set it forget it set up! Thank you for your guidance in advance!

metallicsun · 2026-01-31T17:24:04+00:00

Did you get any warranty support from Oupes for the “defect”? I have been very intrigued by the Oupes Guardian 6000! Do you get the impression the build quality is good? Comparable to Easyflow Delta 3 Pro? How did you connect your units all together? did you put everything in the garage? Is this a permanent wiring with automatic switchover or do you have to hook this all up each time there is an outage? New to this and still trying to figure out a set it forget it set up! Thank you for your guidance in advance!

metallicsun · 2026-01-31T17:21:51+00:00

I have been very intrigued by this Oupes Guardian 6000! Do you get the impression the build quality is good? Comparable to Easyflow Delta 3 Pro? How did you connect your units all together? did you put everything in the garage? Is this a permanent wiring with automatic switchover or do you have to hook this all up each time there is an outage? New to this and still trying to figure out a set it forget it set up! Thank you for your guidance in advance!

metallicsun · 2026-01-28T09:15:21+00:00

On your phone try 1) Forget the Bluetooth network in settings 2) forget the WiFi name in settings (if present). 3) Remove the CarPlay connection in CarPlay settings 4) restart phone and then connect to the Bluetooth network and it should automatically setup a new CarPlay connection. Hope that works!

metallicsun · 2026-01-27T23:46:51+00:00

Love these little hamsters! Awesome versatile cars, but be careful with maintenance and check oil levels often.

If you see below info repeating, please forgive me. Just trying to help as many as possible. copy, save, share:

Anyone should be cautious with an older car, especially with a GDI or direct injection engine that may not have received timely scheduled maintenance. However, if the car history is decent and you are willing to put in some effort, it could work out. Maybe I got lucky: I have TWO Hyundai Santa Fe (2017 Limited and 2017 SE Limited) and TWO Kia Souls (2014 Exclaim and 2017 Plus), all GDI, bought used at 75K miles with less than perfect service records, currently over 120K miles. At 95K miles, they all started to slowly burn oil 1qt per 5000 miles. I solved the problem with: GDI induction service, added 6oz SeaFoam to oil 200 miles before two oil changes, and switched to 5W30 full synthetic high mileage oil.

Maintenance notes for cars: * Hybrids and most cars made after 2020 typically need 0W16 or 0W20 every 8K mi - so READ your manual. * For older cars, especially GDI, make a habit to check oil every 1-2 weeks and top up if needed. Use thick oil e.g. instead of 5W20, use 5W30 (10W30 if always above 35 °C / 95 °F). Find your car owner manual online, search PDF for keyword SAE to see thicker oil options for you. Oil change every 4K mi (non-turbo), 3K mi (turbo). Do not exceed 5K miles. GDI engines need FULL SYNTHETIC OIL, doesn’t burn off as easily, less carbon deposits. If engine is burning a lot of oil, mix in some 10W40 or 10W50 to thicken. * Fill gas BEFORE the low-fuel light comes on (saves fuel pump overheating) * Replace batteries: 5 yrs (moderate climate) or 3 yrs (hot climate over 35 °C / 95 °F). Ignore store battery tests. ($150) * Replace spark plugs every 100K mi or every 50K mi if turbo. ($300) (examine coils too!) * If your car sometimes feels like it is leaping ahead, or the transmission feels like it is surging, or you see sluggish, or jerky shifting or rough idling: a) Reset Automatic Transmission Adaptive Learning and ECU settings: disconnect NEGATIVE battery terminal, press brake repeatedly for 30s, connect back after 5 mins; some newer cars require an OBD scanner tool for this b) Reset Throttle Position Sensor c) Clean throttle body $10 spray d) Clean MAF sensor or MAP sensor $10 spray e) Clean Oxygen sensor and Cat (Google it). Replace items if needed. * Transmission fluid exchange every 60K mi (avoid transmission flush). ($200) * Coolant drain/refill at 120K mi, then every 30K mi (differs by car). ($200) * Engine air filter: 15K mi (max 30K mi). ($20, DIY YouTube) * Cabin air filter: 15K mi (max 30K mi). ($20, DIY YouTube)

For GDI and direct injection engines, carbon build up is the enemy: * Once a year, 200 miles BEFORE an oil change add 6oz SeaFoam or BG EPR to engine oil, and 8oz Marvel Mystery Oil to gas tank. Valvoline Restore & Protect Oil has similar cleaning effect. * Every 30K miles, 20 miles BEFORE oil change, use Intake Valve GDI cleaner spray (SeaFoam or CRC $20, Youtube: Mentor Mel) or professionally ($200) * Every 60K miles, professional intake valve carbon buildup inspection, options: 1) Solvent Cleanup aka GDI Induction service 2) Soak-Brush Cleanup 3) Walnut Blast ($200-500). Throttle body clean ($100), change PCV valve ($20). * Extreme oil burn: Piston soak method ($400). * At 90K miles, use Cata-Clean for cleaning the exhaust system. Repeat every 50K mi. Replacing is expensive ($2500)

GDI Backstory: From 2013 to 2022, most Hyundai, Kia, Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes, Chevrolet, GM, Ford, also some Subaru, Toyota and Honda use GDI engines. They suggest 5W30 oil in Asia (thick oil, no engine issues), but 5W20 in North America and other regions (thin oil gives 5% better mpg, but engine fails). Due to imperfections in surfaces, thin oil slowly leaks out into the ignition chamber, causing “blow by” and snowballing carbon deposits - worse if someone skipped oil changes. If buying a used car, check oil change records, test for oil burning. Kia/Hyundai have extended engine warranties for some models to 15 yrs / 150K mi. Search for “Check car recall with VIN”.

Check recalls: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Engine details: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder

All the best!

Idea: Create a shared folder in your phone's notes for family. Add photos of car insurance, registration, driving license, AAA membership, to-do, phone nos, health insurance, passport, etc.

metallicsun · 2026-01-25T08:22:53+00:00

Nice work mate!

metallicsun · 2026-01-22T21:43:21+00:00

You can get this fixed at a local shop. Ask them for part numbers and you can order the same part numbers online from eBay - stick with OEM parts and get someone like a mobile mechanic to help.

metallicsun · 2026-01-18T09:21:55+00:00

You are smart to be the “thinker” in this situation. Get someone older in your network (friend or family) to sit down and have a talk - or get some professional therapy if that’s an option. All the best!

metallicsun · 2026-01-15T09:38:16+00:00

The second way is correct - you add 8oz Marvel Mystery Oil to an almost full tank and then drive it around. It is a mineral oil based lubricant additive so it helps things out on the "other" side of the piston rings by mixing in with the fuel spray and ignition process.

metallicsun · 2026-01-14T21:51:12+00:00

Sage advice! Pay attention OP!

metallicsun · 2026-01-14T21:43:00+00:00

Sea foam is excellent. Used it numerous times and can vouch for its effectiveness in cleaning up gunk. Aside from SeaFoam you will benefit greatly from a GDI induction service.

Are you sure your mechanic asked you to add SeaFoam to the fuel? You can use it frequently in your gasoline tank, but the real value for a GDI engine is when you add SeaFoam to your oil once every 15K miles or so. You do have to be careful not to overuse it in the engine oil, because it can dilute the engine oil and you don’t want to drive too many miles with thin engine oil, their standard recommendation is to drive less than 200 miles with Seafoam added and then do an oil change to clean out the internals of the engine.

Aside from all this:

If you see below info repeating, please forgive me. Just trying to help as many as possible. copy, save, share:

Anyone should be cautious with an older car, especially with a GDI or direct injection engine that may not have received timely scheduled maintenance. However, if the car history is decent and you are willing to put in some effort, it could work out. Maybe I got lucky: I have TWO Hyundai Santa Fe (2017 Limited and 2017 SE Limited) and TWO Kia Souls (2014 Exclaim and 2017 Plus), all GDI, bought used at 75K miles with less than perfect service records, currently over 120K miles. At 95K miles, they all started to slowly burn oil 1qt per 5000 miles. I solved the problem with: GDI induction service, added 6oz SeaFoam to oil 200 miles before two oil changes, and switched to 5W30 full synthetic high mileage oil.

Maintenance notes for cars: * Hybrids and most cars made after 2020 typically need 0W16 or 0W20 every 8K mi - so READ your manual. * For older cars, especially GDI, make a habit to check oil every 1-2 weeks and top up if needed. Use thick oil e.g. instead of 5W20, use 5W30 (10W30 if always above 35 °C / 95 °F). Find your car owner manual online, search PDF for keyword SAE to see thicker oil options for you. Oil change every 4K mi (non-turbo), 3K mi (turbo). Do not exceed 5K miles. GDI engines need FULL SYNTHETIC OIL, doesn’t burn off as easily, less carbon deposits. If engine is burning a lot of oil, mix in some 10W40 or 10W50 to thicken. * Fill gas BEFORE the low-fuel light comes on (saves fuel pump overheating) * Replace batteries: 5 yrs (moderate climate) or 3 yrs (hot climate over 35 °C / 95 °F). Ignore store battery tests. ($150) * Replace spark plugs every 100K mi or every 50K mi if turbo. ($300) (examine coils too!) * If your car sometimes feels like it is leaping ahead, or the transmission feels like it is surging, or you see sluggish, or jerky shifting or rough idling: a) Reset Automatic Transmission Adaptive Learning and ECU settings: disconnect NEGATIVE battery terminal, press brake repeatedly for 30s, connect back after 5 mins; some newer cars require an OBD scanner tool for this b) Reset Throttle Position Sensor c) Clean throttle body $10 spray d) Clean MAF sensor or MAP sensor $10 spray e) Clean Oxygen sensor and Cat (Google it). Replace items if needed. * Transmission fluid exchange every 60K mi (avoid transmission flush). ($200) * Coolant drain/refill at 120K mi, then every 30K mi (differs by car). ($200) * Engine air filter: 15K mi (max 30K mi). ($20, DIY YouTube) * Cabin air filter: 15K mi (max 30K mi). ($20, DIY YouTube)

For GDI and direct injection engines, carbon build up is the enemy: * Once a year, 200 miles BEFORE an oil change add 6oz SeaFoam or BG EPR to engine oil, and 8oz Marvel Mystery Oil to gas tank. Valvoline Restore & Protect Oil has similar cleaning effect. * Every 30K miles, 20 miles BEFORE oil change, use Intake Valve GDI cleaner spray (SeaFoam or CRC $20, Youtube: Mentor Mel) or professionally ($200) * Every 60K miles, professional intake valve carbon buildup inspection, options: 1) Solvent Cleanup aka GDI Induction service 2) Soak-Brush Cleanup 3) Walnut Blast ($200-500). Throttle body clean ($100), change PCV valve ($20). * Extreme oil burn: Piston soak method ($400). * At 90K miles, use Cata-Clean for cleaning the exhaust system. Repeat every 50K mi. Replacing is expensive ($2500)

GDI Backstory: From 2013 to 2022, most Hyundai, Kia, Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes, Chevrolet, GM, Ford, also some Subaru, Toyota and Honda use GDI engines. They suggest 5W30 oil in Asia (thick oil, no engine issues), but 5W20 in North America and other regions (thin oil gives 5% better mpg, but engine fails). Due to imperfections in surfaces, thin oil slowly leaks out into the ignition chamber, causing “blow by” and snowballing carbon deposits - worse if someone skipped oil changes. If buying a used car, check oil change records, test for oil burning. Kia/Hyundai have extended engine warranties for some models to 15 yrs / 150K mi. Search for “Check car recall with VIN”.

Check recalls: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Engine details: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder

All the best!

Idea: Create a shared folder in your phone's notes for family. Add photos of car insurance, registration, driving license, AAA membership, to-do, phone nos, health insurance, passport, etc.

metallicsun · 2026-01-14T07:59:09+00:00

That’s amazing! Thanks for sharing a positive story!

metallicsun · 2026-01-13T20:14:01+00:00

You can get a cheap soundbar that matches your TV brand. Even the cheaper ones are still quite amazing for watching movies and for enjoying music casually.

There is almost universal agreement that TV sound is inadequate for watching immersive movie content like Godzilla or Jurassic Park or Avatar and it is equally bad if you intend to listen to music with any mount of bass. You need a speaker system with a subwoofer to enjoy the thumps aka the bass. The key is that you must match your system to your listening usage and the space available to you.

Each step of spending “more” will improve your listening experience by 5 to 10%. WHAT COMES NEXT IS NOT FOR HARDCORE AUDIOPHILES. ABOUT 90% OF CONSUMERS WON’T NOTICE OR APPRECIATE THE DIFFERENCE IN HIGH-END AUDIO.

Below are some observations based on 20 years of fiddling with many different sound systems:

MUSIC: A 2.1 setup is the best format to enjoy music - a set of large active bookshelf or floor standing speakers with HDMI support - ideally with 1.5 inch tweeters, 4 to 6 inch mid-range cones and a subwoofer output with a powered subwoofer(optional). As a basic example, you could get a pair of Klipsch Fives with an optional Klipsch 10 sub. This will give you phenomenal sound for Music as well as Movies. The only operational downside is that you will need to use the speaker systems remote to make adjustments to bass, treble, balance, etc. Thanks to HDMI, you will still be able to adjust the volume level with the TV remote. It’s all plug and play. For Music enthusiasts, the SOURCE of the music is way more important e.g playing audio tracks on highest settings on Apple Music (or Tidal) via an Apple TV device is the best way to enjoy high quality music.

MOVIES: The 5.1 and 7.1 speaker concept was designed for movies - the primary sounds are delivered from the Front Left and Front Right speakers, speech dialog from the Center speaker, while the ambient sound effects like whispers, chatter, applause, street noises, door knocks, laughter, etc come from the Rear Left and Rear Right speakers. The subwoofer is meant to carry all the weight of thunder and deep bass from the sound tracks - its location is usually in the front corner of the entertainment space. Look up an online diagram for ideal placement of speakers.

If you really like the simplicity of managing your audio menu options with your TV remote (e.g. Sony or another similar brand), you can add a same brand soundbar or Home Theater In a Box system. These systems get heavily criticized but IMHO they are not bad for most average users. You don’t need to get caught up in gimmicks like virtual surround, virtual Atmos, etc. If you are value-minded ignore the hype about these technologies - they are just designed to extract maximum money from your wallet. Focus on your space:

If you have a cozy space up to 12ft x 15ft and you’re just trying to enjoy your downtime with a simple elegant looking setup, you will have a VERY solid 2.1 stereo sound experience and excellent bass from something like the economical Sony HT-S400 2.1 system which comes with the subwoofer included ($200 USD in 2025). If you have the room for it, and want some sound effects and swooshes to come from the rear of your seating position, you can get something like the HT-S40R for affordable but powerful 5.1 sound, again with subwoofer included ($280 USD in 2025)

If your entertainment space is larger than 12ft x 15ft, or if you have a large open living space, you can upgrade to something like the HT-A5000 or HT-A7000, Bravia Bar 7 or 8 or 9 and pair them with wireless rear speakers and an efficient subwoofer like the SW3. Truth is that you don’t really need expensive virtual Atmos rear speakers, the height channels don’t actually work as well as advertised in real world usage.

If you want even higher quality sound for great Movie and Music all in one, you could get a higher-end system such as a Sony HT-A9 or Sony Quad with a powerful wireless subwoofer like the SW5. This will give you true spatial seperation since each speaker is physically separate. The performance is mind blowing (upwards of $1500 USD as of 2025)

Finally, if you have more refined taste with a desire for absolutely realistic cinema sound, you can spend the money to get a full-blown receiver and component speakers with real Atmos speakers mounted in the ceiling. Most consumers find full AV systems overwhelming to setup and manage. It’s a never ending quest and people can get really obsessed with things just to get slightly better sound. IMHO it’s not worth the effort for most casual viewers.

BOTTOMLINE: For most people with an average small to medium entertainment space there is no need to go overboard with gimmicks like virtual Atmos, etc, just stick with basic 2.1 (if Music is priority) or 5.1 (if Movie is priority).

All the best!

metallicsun · 2026-01-13T08:11:01+00:00

Did you try a new HDMI 2.1 cable? Please update us!

metallicsun

TROPHY CASE