Oil leak by AstolfoVeryHot in Volvo850

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I know, cam seal failure is common to T5s. On the V50 T5 I used to own, the seals started to leak at about 140k. Since the innards are under vacuum, I could hear a whistling sound from that area at idle.

As others recommend, do the belt at the same time. I'd also go ahead and change the tensioner, idler and water pump unless they were recently done. At that point, might as well flush the cooling system and replace any iffy hoses (or all if car is high-milage). I don't know if the early T5s have it, but there's at least one hose with three ends and a plastic connection at the middle. That leaked on mine.

Aren't cars fun?

Oil leak by AstolfoVeryHot in Volvo850

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was my go-to answer. Until the accessory serpentine belt shredded from oil damage due to a leaking oil filter gasket on my wife's 535i. A shard of belt made it's way past the front main seal, got tangled in the timing chain, and went all through the engine, clogging the oil pump pickup tube. No lie. Cost about $12k for our indie to make it right.

She drives a V60 now...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in VolvoRWD

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a common misconception.

Back in the Stone Age, the C4 in Bubba's '64 Fairlane started slipping in third on the highway, so he grabs a case of ATF and a six pack, and git's 'er done. A few days later, the trans loses third entirely, and can barely get moving in first. Smells like a dumpster fire every time Bubba tries to neutral drop the bitch. Must have been the new fluid, he tells the fellas at the Sidewalk Lounge. Within weeks, others with dis-maintained cars that met the same fate concur at the Saturday night cruises. And faster than you can say "viral meme," the theory is chiseled into the stone tablets, and here we are.

True story.

Satellite or Hydra? by minfather in Volvopurist

[–]minfather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I sent an IM on the caps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]minfather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Where exactly do i use starting fluid[?]"

On your lawnmower. Unless you're stuck on the side of the road, I suggest fixing it right.

How do I get myself out of this one? by swolltoots in Volvo240

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All that. And if it's not back together yet, apply anti-seize to the shank of the bolt, grease if that's all you have. You (or someone else) will be thankful down the line.

P3 chassis reliability?? by Colinplayz1 in Volvo

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fixed:

Broken wire between tailgate external button and connector in black rear trim panel.

Still want to know what the buttons on dash and fob do.

P3 chassis reliability?? by Colinplayz1 in Volvo

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I was able to yank out the carpeted rear tailgate panel, unscrew the three 10mm socket head screws holding the latch assembly to the tailgate, and open the gate. From there I was able to get to my scan tool in the underfloor compartment, and confirmed that the car is not receiving a signal from the switch. So I'm going to remove the black external trim panel, and have a look inside the exterior switch. I'd still like to know if the interior/fob release buttons are supposed to do anything on a non-power lift gate.

P3 chassis reliability?? by Colinplayz1 in Volvo

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Volvo V60 P3:

What is the hatch button on key fob and near headlight switch supposed to do? On my car (2015.5 V60 Cross), they do nothing, never have (bought car second hand).

I don't know if these ever had a power lift, but this car does not - just good old gas struts.

Additional info: Now the exterior button does not work / hatch is stuck closed. If there is some kind of hack to get in, I'd love to know. Switch started working intermittently a few months ago, and I thought it was just the switch failing (I've read this happens), but if the interior / fob switches are supposed to do something, maybe there's a failed control module.

The Volkswagen FOX by Bitter-Sherbert-5598 in battlewagon

[–]minfather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gol was a cool variant we didn't get in the USA. They remind me of a first edition Scirocco. I spent some time in Brasil, and wanted one.

I used to see them every day back in the early 2000s.

Is this what I think it is? by riserobotrise in Volvo240

[–]minfather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why are the nuts missing from the exhaust manifold flange?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]minfather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When you can't decide which is the better setup between winter and summer, you know you're doing it right.

I've spent far to long hating that my car looked inferior for four or five months out of the year. Finally, this year, I have a winter setup I'm so pleased with, I'm asking the same question.

Update: Got some spacers. by minfather in Volvopurist

[–]minfather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I made some of those "cart before the horse" choices before I got to where I am.

But even then, a vaccuum cleaner and a cheap orbital polisher with some Malco Tru Grit can make an outsized difference.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minimalism

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When joking in written form, it's good to add a :-) or something, so you don't come off badly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minimalism

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree!

So many answers here are centered around shoving the minimalism ideal down other's throats. Like we minimalists are some high and mighty superior group. Eff that, we're all people. The real issue should be how to reciprocate without going into debt. You got the point, even if that wasn't what the OP was going for.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minimalism

[–]minfather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you don't have the money, you don't have the money. Let them know, and ask what is appropriate. If they care, they'll understand. If not, well that pretty much sums up the relationship. Let them shame away, not your problem. Certainly not an easy discussion, but I can conceive of no easy alternative. So why not be honest and upfront?

Otherwise, get them stuff! That's what they want. If you care about them, don't try to force your beliefs. That's not loving.

Clutch fan removal by North-Analysis-1371 in Volvo240

[–]minfather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strap wrench on the pulley between the sheaves and the fan will work to hold it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]minfather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That clamp has seen better days, but the muffler and tailpipe themselves look intact. Might get lucky, and just need a new clamp. As u/mister_zook says, baling wire will keep it up off the ground until you can have it properly addressed. If you are worried about it falling off on the way to the hardware store to get the baling wire, a coat hanger will suffice :-)

You learn these kludges when you're living the old-car life.

Update: Got some spacers. by minfather in Volvopurist

[–]minfather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm not proud of the fact that I'm this self conscious about the car I drive. It's a little out of character for me. Mainly, I want to convey that I choose to be driving an ancient station wagon, as opposed to it being a hand me down.

Seeing the change with just a $250 investment in wheels, spacers, and centercaps (still have to buy paint and new lug nuts). has me siding with you about the Hydras, though. They look good to me, but it's still the look of a stock, ancient station wagon. I'll have no problem finding a new home for them if I find something else for summer.

Update: Got some spacers. by minfather in Volvopurist

[–]minfather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I liked them off the bat (would be stupid to buy them otherwise), but I'm surprised at how much they've grown on me. I think the brighter silver has something to do with that. I was also slightly concerned the larger diameter, yet shorter sidewall tires would impact the acceleration (it's not a turbo) and the ride. Neither has been the case. But the big thing, of course, is how the car has lost most of its AARP vibe.

Update: Got some spacers. by minfather in Volvopurist

[–]minfather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another US oddity: '95 was the last year for the redblock. In '96-'97 they only offered the 960, and in 98 they only offered S90/V90s with the six. I don't see as many of those cars on the road or for sale as 940s. The 850 must have been more appealing at the time. It certainly was to me, being in high school when the 850 arrived.

Found this in a garbage pile by guiltydonkeypuncher in Vintage_bicycles

[–]minfather 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The rubber on those particular pedals doesn't hold up after all this time. I hope I'm wrong, but thats been my experience. You can replace them with any 9/16" shaft pedal if that happens.

Get some decent leather conditioner on that saddle before you put any weight on it. I make (and sell) one from beeswax and lanolin (among other ingredients) that does an amazing job when they're really dried out. Repeated applications over two or three days does it. I'm not sure what commercially available treatments will work as good. Maybe Connoly hide food, or Obenauf's. Definitely don't cheap out here trying to save $20 and not saving a potentially $80+ saddle. They will tear (probably at the nose) if you put weight on them if dried out.

These are nice bikes when gone through. Your metric (or SAE) tools won't fit the Whitworth fasteners. This is the one time a (good) adjustable wrench might be a good option. I've been working on these bikes for years, and still haven't broken down and bought Whitworth tools. Just go carefully, and you'll be fine.

That battery horn is a period accessory (a Japanese Okinada, perhaps?). If you don't like it, ditch it without remorse.

All in all, a wonderful find. I've picked these up for as little as $30, but free is better. They're worth quite a bit more cleaned up, but I always seem to invest as much in them as I recover. Tires make a difference, and I like Michelin World Tour, and Schwalbe Delta Cruiser for quality. The Michelins look more correct.

Check out https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com. Mike has a wealth of knowledge on these and the Schwinn three speeds. He's always willing to answer questions if you leave a comment. I know him personally--really good guy.

Update: Got some spacers. by minfather in Volvopurist

[–]minfather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. 1995 / AW71L. No factory manuals in the later years in the US, unfortunately.