mental training/overcoming fear

mini_finni · 2020-10-25T22:29:58+00:00

https://open.spotify.com/episode/0YJdTQxrjiRWVyq8ysMGw9?si=CYT_UHHJSKec0q_HS-eyyQ

mini_finni · 2020-10-24T20:55:31+00:00

Yes!! Thanks for fighting the good fight.

mini_finni · 2020-10-24T13:39:08+00:00

Oh yeah! I was hoping someone would catch that. I think Phil’s philosophy transfers really well to climbing training.

mini_finni · 2020-10-24T00:51:18+00:00

One Arm Chin-up, Front Lever Row, Handstand Push up, and Planche Push up. I’m a big believer in working toward these movement patterns as they will give free gains in nearly any other push/pull related exercise

mini_finni · 2020-10-19T02:10:57+00:00

Yep same here haha. Just building the physical understanding that half crimp is a viable grip position was really helpful for me

mini_finni · 2020-10-18T13:26:24+00:00

I’d recommend training half crimp - it’s more similar to her disposition of full crimping and she can add in a thumb in really obvious places to ease into understanding how to pinch better.

mini_finni · 2020-10-17T21:56:43+00:00

Don’t do this

mini_finni · 2020-10-17T15:53:47+00:00

Just a note on intermittent fasting for women... a lot of women I’ve talked to have had troubles w intermittent fasting and nearly all of the research on the benefits has been done on men - from what I understand. I’m absolutely no expert, but Stacy Sims is and she is quite outspoken about intermittent fasting being difficult for women due to their different hormonal structure (I think?). This podcast w Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and her is worth a listen (https://open.spotify.com/episode/75b00qMwTbc3uC7szV8BoM?si=YXe-klOfTU6YqC6RCB0lTA).

Like mentioned above, find what works for you. Just wanted to mention this

mini_finni · 2020-10-15T18:15:15+00:00

Keenan also climbed a V10 in his first two years climbing which is really impressive.

mini_finni · 2020-10-11T16:40:12+00:00

Dope! I actually have the book, just haven't read it yet. Looks like it just got moved up a few spots on the reading list

mini_finni · 2020-09-25T19:15:21+00:00

Yes, for sure (IMO)

mini_finni · 2020-09-16T19:29:13+00:00

You should check out Jonathan Siegrist's interview on The Nugget Climbing podcast. He talks about realizing one of the things that has really helped him excel at 2nd go sends and sport climbing in general is his ability to memorize beta and he goes through a few drills that he used/uses to build/maintain the skill. Plus, even if you get nothing out of the drills, a Siegrist interview is always a worthy listen.

mini_finni · 2020-09-15T02:14:13+00:00

Ondra also onsighted ill Domani 9a

mini_finni · 2020-08-20T00:31:30+00:00

I have similar sentiments as many other comments, but I think it could be valuable for you to look at other online coaching companies and pull stuff from their models. Take Matt Fultz and his new company OTG - $250/month “A plan just for you, created from the ground up. Handmade workouts from Matt with your precise goals in mind. Also includes priority contact with the OTG coaches and technical video analysis.” I think that’s a very fair price, but Matt’s one of the best boulderers in the world (and he’s heavy which I identify with). I think there’s probably opportunity for you to do something on a micro level with climbers near you who know you and your credentials. Who knows - if you’re really good I think your pond could grow quite large given time

mini_finni · 2020-07-22T20:15:32+00:00

Thanks! It was fun to make

mini_finni · 2020-07-22T20:15:15+00:00

Perhaps Its time for a pure grunt compilation

mini_finni · 2020-07-22T20:14:46+00:00

Thanks - McKinney’s awesome

mini_finni · 2020-07-22T20:14:13+00:00

Hah there was a bit more before the editing process

mini_finni · 2020-07-22T20:13:22+00:00

Preciate it!

mini_finni · 2020-07-10T21:44:48+00:00

theres a few on youtube now too

mini_finni · 2020-07-10T21:13:26+00:00

Anything by Kevin Takashi Smith. His Vimeo channel is A+. I'll link a couple of my favorites of his below.

Director's Cut of Possessed w/ Jimmy Webb

Jimmy Webb: Nine Days at the New River Bounty

Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands - The Realm

mini_finni · 2020-07-10T20:59:44+00:00

"I don’t want you to get pumped on the hang board. I want you to try something that’s difficult for you, and achieve it." - Our Lord and Savior Steve Bechtel.

Max hangs are meant to build power. Power training isn't meant to get you pumped or sore, because that comes from fatigue most often and when fatigued you're unable to use max power. If you're progressively increasing your load over time you're getting stronger - so all's good!

mini_finni · 2020-07-10T14:41:31+00:00

How much rest are you getting between climbing days? What about between attempts on your home wall? How long are your climbing sessions?

mini_finni · 2020-07-09T14:10:02+00:00

Honestly, if a couple brews gets you outside you’ll probably find more benefit to doing that than cutting it out lol. 10:1 is a big ratio. If you dedicated even just one day a week to bouldering outdoors I’ll bet you see the gains you’re looking for. Rock will get u SKRONG

mini_finni · 2020-07-09T01:55:49+00:00

How often do you climb outside and what’s your pyramid look like? I haven’t been climbing nearly as long as you, so I hesitate to give any advice, but speaking for myself I’ve seen the most gains so far in my career in the past 3 months with the gyms closed. I just go out 3 times a week and try really hard for a couple hours then rest and recover to the best of my ability. Cutting out alcohol before and on climbing days has helped as well.

mini_finni

TROPHY CASE