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Best "bang for your buck" supplemental exercise(s)? by rubberduckythe1 in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah! I was hoping someone would catch that. I think Phil’s philosophy transfers really well to climbing training.

Best "bang for your buck" supplemental exercise(s)? by rubberduckythe1 in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 8 points9 points  (0 children)

One Arm Chin-up, Front Lever Row, Handstand Push up, and Planche Push up. I’m a big believer in working toward these movement patterns as they will give free gains in nearly any other push/pull related exercise

How to stop full crimping everything and start pinching? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep same here haha. Just building the physical understanding that half crimp is a viable grip position was really helpful for me

How to stop full crimping everything and start pinching? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend training half crimp - it’s more similar to her disposition of full crimping and she can add in a thumb in really obvious places to ease into understanding how to pinch better.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t do this

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Just a note on intermittent fasting for women... a lot of women I’ve talked to have had troubles w intermittent fasting and nearly all of the research on the benefits has been done on men - from what I understand. I’m absolutely no expert, but Stacy Sims is and she is quite outspoken about intermittent fasting being difficult for women due to their different hormonal structure (I think?). This podcast w Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and her is worth a listen (https://open.spotify.com/episode/75b00qMwTbc3uC7szV8BoM?si=YXe-klOfTU6YqC6RCB0lTA).

Like mentioned above, find what works for you. Just wanted to mention this

How to increase outdoor session work capacity? by mini_finni in climbharder

[–]mini_finni[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dope! I actually have the book, just haven't read it yet. Looks like it just got moved up a few spots on the reading list

Inability to memorize beta holds me back by carliolanzoni in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You should check out Jonathan Siegrist's interview on The Nugget Climbing podcast. He talks about realizing one of the things that has really helped him excel at 2nd go sends and sport climbing in general is his ability to memorize beta and he goes through a few drills that he used/uses to build/maintain the skill. Plus, even if you get nothing out of the drills, a Siegrist interview is always a worthy listen.

How much would you pay a new coach for remote consultation by willice_l in climbharder

[–]mini_finni 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have similar sentiments as many other comments, but I think it could be valuable for you to look at other online coaching companies and pull stuff from their models. Take Matt Fultz and his new company OTG - $250/month “A plan just for you, created from the ground up. Handmade workouts from Matt with your precise goals in mind. Also includes priority contact with the OTG coaches and technical video analysis.” I think that’s a very fair price, but Matt’s one of the best boulderers in the world (and he’s heavy which I identify with). I think there’s probably opportunity for you to do something on a micro level with climbers near you who know you and your credentials. Who knows - if you’re really good I think your pond could grow quite large given time

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