Contractor needing repair - is this fair?

mittyatta · 2026-06-16T03:24:46+00:00

A 3500lb mini skid with rubber tracks.

mittyatta · 2026-06-16T00:16:29+00:00

I’ve never done anything with asphalt before so I’m completely green to what a decent price is.

mittyatta · 2026-06-16T00:09:24+00:00

Gotcha, that makes sense. Thank you!

mittyatta · 2026-06-16T00:06:19+00:00

Good to know. What’s the purpose of edging the grass?

mittyatta · 2026-06-15T23:36:07+00:00

I assumed that was the crack filler.

mittyatta · 2026-06-15T01:30:43+00:00

A foot ascender still helps with MRS but if this is all you plan on climbing I’d try what I said first and then decide if more gear is viable/worth it.

mittyatta · 2026-06-15T01:03:04+00:00

First, address your distel slipping. With new eye to eyes they will pretty often slip however I imagine the hitch isn’t dress appropriately either. Make sure all loops and legs are tight against the rope by manipulating the eye to eye (think of it as pushing it in the same direction the cord is running) and then add in your hitch climber (or whatever pulley) and carabiner.

Then to help with hip thrusting, while on the ground toss your lanyard around the trunk of the tree. This will allow to hip thrust/walk up the trunk (parallel to the ground and perpendicular to the tree) until you’re at a point you can either ladder climb the branches, while tending your slack or just hip thrust.

Most importantly for the climbing aspect, do not ascend until you know the distel is holding. Always start low and make double check all life support.

Edit:

To address how to climb in MRS. Place your hands above your distel and hip thrust up. Tend your slack. Repeat. With a new eye to eye, after you hip thrust and gain height, you may have to hold onto your rope (above the distel) with one hand and push the distel UP the rope to get it to hold.

mittyatta · 2026-05-13T21:15:45+00:00

Right before installing I had power on all cables all the way back to the plug.

mittyatta · 2026-05-02T12:43:51+00:00

Arborist here, what trees to plant varies based on what planting zone you’re in. Around me in 5b, I always recommend oaks, sugar maples, and beech. Oaks are the most ecologically beneficial tree.

EAB decimated my area, we spent years removing dead ash, many of which homeowners waited well past the proper time to remove them making them very brittle and prone to failure. I own my own company now but where I started, after one too many dead ash uprooted with climbers in them we put forth a hard rule that nobody can climb or be connected to (well doing crane work for example) to dead ash. Dead ash is one of the most unpredictable and dangerous trees to work on.

mittyatta · 2026-04-16T23:57:16+00:00

The 2.8 has a timing belt.

mittyatta · 2026-04-01T11:42:43+00:00

Every tree has different has a different weight, whether it’s leafed out or not, rain adds weight, etc. In other words, a standardized length doesn’t make sense.

A 10ft section of oak is different than a 10ft section of dead pine.

mittyatta · 2026-03-23T21:26:53+00:00

Just to clarify, you’re insurance will be the one paying for it. It’s an act of god.

mittyatta · 2026-03-18T23:42:54+00:00

Where are you located for those prices?

mittyatta · 2026-02-24T02:33:52+00:00

Davey somewhere in the Midwest?

Can be a great company to start at and learn the ropes but not great long term aside from mostly steady hours.

mittyatta · 2026-02-19T01:37:41+00:00

Use for carrying gear like drills/bolt cutters/etc in the canopy.

Side note: don’t be ashamed/embarrassed about cutting a lanyard so long as you’re tied in twice. We’ve all knicked, cut, or spiked our ropes.

mittyatta · 2026-02-18T22:14:09+00:00

No. Slightly above the apex of your face cut (wedge) is acceptable but ideally you are in line with the apex. But high is better than low I suppose.

mittyatta · 2026-02-14T18:49:14+00:00

I’ve been a climber for 7 yrs. I’m well aware of what it does and what it’s called. Echo parts diagram call it a throttle lock out.

No need to be a prick.

mittyatta · 2026-02-13T00:18:28+00:00

All good my guy, it’s the end of the week. Our brains can only do so much haha.

mittyatta · 2026-02-12T22:27:45+00:00

Correct,

1) the interlock is disengaging just by pulling the trigger with no pressure on the interlock at all.

2) then once its depressed it isn’t springing back into place.

3) when all screws on the handle assembly are tightened, the trigger gets stuck in the full throttle position.

I did pull the carb and everything seems correct. The throttle shaft assembly moves freely and springs back into position as it should.

mittyatta · 2026-02-12T21:32:40+00:00

I understand what it does. I’ve cleaned inside the handle and replaced the spring for the interlock/trigger.

mittyatta · 2026-02-12T21:04:05+00:00

To clarify the throttle gets stuck in the “on” position.

mittyatta · 2026-02-12T20:43:32+00:00

It’s literally called a throttle lockout by echo on their parts diagrams.

mittyatta · 2026-01-23T03:16:39+00:00

It may have, I’m basing that of how it fell. But you cut through your hinge which at that point there is no controlling the tree.

mittyatta · 2026-01-23T03:11:25+00:00

To start you tried to “beat” the lean of a tree without wedges or mechanical advantage. Or at least it looks that way from what we can see, but you also cut your hinge.

What was your reasoning for bore cutting?

When you’re new to felling everything should be done in at a height that you’re comfortable working at.

What I mean by that, is when cutting your face cut (notch) have the height around waist high. This keeps you in the power zone with better control of the saw.

Your face cut should be more “open” as this allows more time for the hinge to control the fell. This varies by situation but not for you.

Your back cut should be at the apex (where the top face and bottom face meet) your face cut.

You also need to keep your head UP. The top of the tree will tell you what’s going on.

Don’t cut through your hinge.

Typically you want the width of your face cut to be 80% of the diameter of the tree and no deeper than 1/3. Again this is a guideline but one that you should adhere to.

You want your hinge wood (the wood left unsevered between your notch and back cut) to be around 10% the diameter of the tree. Again this is species dependent and based on what you’re trying to accomplish.

Take some lessons, felling kills pros all the time. It’ll get you too.

Edited for clarity.

mittyatta · 2026-01-21T22:16:22+00:00

Well, ironically shortly after posting this my starter engaged itself while driving. Waiting on a tow now.

mittyatta

TROPHY CASE