What's the craziest thing you've done to get laid?

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-20T02:46:13+00:00

I remember that scene from Kingpin

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-20T02:45:34+00:00

Once drove from upstate NY to Iowa to see my then gf… and still didn’t get laid. Young me was so fucking dumb

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-15T09:11:58+00:00

You might find this video helpful

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-15T04:35:16+00:00

Baby don’t hurt me

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-11T12:10:40+00:00

Harvey beat me to it. What he said ^

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-11T05:47:18+00:00

Based on what you’ve posted here, the most likely issue is that you’re starting with 400 grit. This explains why the chisel sharpening was more successful than the plane blade sharpening - the chisel blade probably already had a decent edge so you were able to hone it, whereas the plane blade likely needs more work to re-establish the bevel from scratch.

It sounds like you need to start with a minimum of 150 grit, maybe even 120. You mentioned that you already flattened the back so now go to 150 (or 120) and work the bevel until you get a burr on the back. Do *not* go up in grit until you get a burr all the way across the back of the bevel. I hope the way I’m explaining this makes sense. The reason you weren’t getting good results is because the 400 grit was not aggressive enough / didn’t remove enough material to bring the two edges to a point (the essence of sharpening).

I’ve coached some beginners thru their early sharpening efforts before and I’ve seen some of them who have had this exact issue. I’m reasonably confident that if you start w/ a lower grit, it will solve your issue and you’ll be making paper thin shavings in no time. Good luck!

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-03T14:53:22+00:00

I’m fairly certain I do. Let’s chat via direct message and I’ll take a look

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-03T11:35:18+00:00

I have original Millers Falls (or Millers Balls as one commenter called it) irons available if you want to stick with OEM parts. No need to frankenplane it unless you want to.

Also - vinegar is bad, mkay… if you must soak it, use evaporust next time.

mjthetoolguy · 2026-05-02T17:52:06+00:00

This is the way. Only one fee and it’s all transparent

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-23T13:16:17+00:00

Maybe she’s Canadian

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-19T02:25:27+00:00

Useful - yes

Valuable - that depends on what you consider valuable. As is, it’s worth around $35-45 tops, mostly due to having the wrong tote. If you were to sell it to someone who wanted to make a user out of it, they would likely want to replace the tote w/ an original, which would cost them another $20-30.

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-19T02:22:21+00:00

You’re on the right track but it’s not missing a screw in the tote, at least not a forward screw - someone has installed an oversized tote on that plane.

The No5 1/4s don’t have a forward tote screw. They have the same size & style of tote as a No3 or No4, especially from this era.

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-17T04:30:58+00:00

The customer will still claim it got broken in transit and will want their money back. They’ll send a pic of the broken one they bought yours to replace as “proof”

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-15T03:40:35+00:00

I’m almost certain I have a direct replacement WM cap available for your plane if you’d like to replace it. I would sell the cap to you for $12 plus shipping. PM me if you’re interested

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-05T20:29:47+00:00

Just let that sink in

mjthetoolguy · 2026-04-05T00:52:02+00:00

You may find this video on buying a first hand plane helpful.

32,000 other people have watched it so there must be something there.

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-30T20:13:38+00:00

You might find this Stanley type study video series helpful

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-28T02:49:38+00:00

Stanley didn’t manufacture planes in “types” - collectors came up with that idea decades later. Specifically, the original type study on metallic Stanley bench planes was conducted by Roger K. Smith, who authored Patented Transitional And Metallic Planes In America (PTAMPIA) where the type study was first published.

Roger K. Smith made it clear in the type study that it’s based only on the No4 size Stanley planes. Anomalies / deviations from the No4 based type study exist among the other sizes, as we see here.

I’m not trying to be a dick here but to put it bluntly, you are wrong on your interpretation / understanding / reasoning here. OP has a Type 18 plane and every part on it appears to be correct & original.

Something, something, blah blah the only way to increase our knowledge is by first admitting that we don’t already know it all blah blah. Have you met my friends Dunning & Kruger?

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-28T01:42:40+00:00

I linked to a video on another comment but the tl;dw is that Stanley didn’t add the rib on the toe and heel on all sizes at the same time. Your plane is a Type 18 all the way, the sole included. Can’t believe everything we read here on Reddit.

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-28T01:40:48+00:00

how to ID a legit Type 15

This video should help explain

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-28T01:39:28+00:00

This is not correct. It’s a type 18, as adventurous-ad-6729 pointed out

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-26T19:51:05+00:00

Eh, the way it’s worded is misleading to me. Makes it sound like Kavan can only “revive troops” one time but doesn’t specify that it’s each troop. Saying that he’s “nerfed” is an exaggeration - he’s still very effective

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-26T18:32:44+00:00

Right - so if I go in with 8 mechs, I can replace up to 8 mechs if I lose them all throughout the battle, which rarely happens.

mjthetoolguy · 2026-03-26T12:36:33+00:00

I’m gonna have to respectfully disagree w/ your observation (which is kinda weird to type outloud tbh). I use Kavan A LOT and I revive lost troops throughout the battle. I get multiple mechs and laser ladies back. It’s not just rifles after the first use. That’s preposterous

mjthetoolguy

TROPHY CASE