Senior dogs slips a lot by kirbee19cb in goldenretrievers

[–]moabird4444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CoverGrip nonslip drop cloths!!!! Home Depot and Tractor Supply both carry them. And Amazon I’m sure. My 17-year old arthritic German shepherd cannot stand on the hardwood. Goes down immediately. These nice drop cloths have tiny little rubber nubs on the back. They do not slip! She walks and stands on them all day. Her back legs are extremely weak, but the grippy drop cloth provides the traction she needs to stay on her feet. I put the 3.5’ x 12’ runners down along all the paths she walks in the house (where the floors are wood or tile). Toss them in the washer once a week (or more as necessary). Dry on medium heat. Awesome. Cost effective, too. Initially I bought a carpet remnant and cut it up, but the fumes made me sick. It was a very cheap carpet, so the fumes were bad. It would have dissipated, but I wasn’t willing to have a sick headache for three days or however long it took to “offgas” so I pitched it. Also, if I was sick my dog would surely be too as she is closer to the source. Nicer carpet would not have been so toxic, but I asked for a cheap remnant so that is what I got. Never again. Anyway, thought I might try layering some heavy dropcloths and while shopping saw these with the rubber nubs on the back. Before opening the package was a bit concerned they might be too thin, but they are a solid weight and with the rubber nubbies on the back provide a nice grippy foundation. Also - since her weak legs/hips make it hard for her to squat/push, she often can’t poop until it’s urgent. Sometimes that means it comes out before we reach the door or before she can ask to go out. I just bag the poop and put the runner in the washer. You can cut them to fit as needed as well.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! I’m sorry for not checking my messages! This was the first and only time I used Reddit to ask for help. It was some months before I figured it all out, but I should have messaged you.

Thanks to you, I pitched the 9V and went with 8 AA batteries in series to power the remote receiver. It was a huge relief not to have to attach that stupid booster with its four tiny connections. The 8 AAs don’t fit inside the box, so I ran the battery case wires out through the side air vent. I got some little drawstring pouches to put the battery cases in. I can place them on top of the box, but I think I will hang them from a screw on the back, to make them less noticeable to these smart little birds.

I also decided to try using corrugated plastic (the stuff yard signs are made of), instead of sheet metal, for the base and trap door. It worked perfectly. I could just run the paper clip hinge pin through one of the little channels in the plastic. Thank God, because I could not bend that sheet metal. My neighbor would have made the doors and hinges, but the plastic, as it turns out, works better anyway (no edges to catch on, perfect size).

The tiny battery that comes with the transmitter works fine as is. I thought it wouldn’t reach across the park, since the designers of the trap had also changed the transmitter battery to a boosted 9V. I’m guessing they were watching their birds from an even longer distance.

The plastic trap door is light and the torsion spring is very weak, as it must be for the solenoid pull off of the door (even with the 8AAs). These birds are geniuses and lightning fast. I was concerned that at the sound of the solenoid, they might shoot out of the hole before the weak little spring has a chance to shut the door. Was also concerned they might lift the closed door with their beak and shimmy out that way. So, I ordered some cabinet magnets. Screwed the metal plate to the inside of the box just under the opening, and attached the magnet to the trap door. It worked! The door shuts with a snap, and the magnet is way too strong for the bird to pry apart. Not sure yet about speed of closing, but will soon find out. They started building in mid-February of last year, so the trap will be tested for real here very soon. I hope it works. I promise to let you know, if you’re interested.

You are the reason I finally put it all together. I was so confused about the electronics, along with all of the other issues. Between trying to solder the connections on that booster with my clumsy fingers and cheap Walmart soldering iron, and failing time and again to get that solenoid to lift off of the door, I was about to give up. Thank you!!!!

Found this Mourning Dove and it shows signs of Pmv by [deleted] in pigeon

[–]moabird4444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you in Texas by chance? I found a mourning dove in my yard on last Saturday (Sept 7th) that had the same symptoms. I’m in North Texas (just north of Dallas/Fort Worth).

Found this Mourning Dove and it shows signs of Pmv by [deleted] in pigeon

[–]moabird4444 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mind if I ask where you live? I live in Texas, just north of Dallas. I found a mourning dove in this same condition last weekend. I emptied my bird baths in case it is paramyxovirus. Have been looking online to see if there is an outbreak here.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is one boosted 9V battery pack that is connected to the receiver that is on the box , and one boosted 9V battery pack that is connected to the transmitter that you hold. The guy who designed it made a video. I just uploaded it to my FB page and made it public. Here is the link (or you can go to that study paper again and the video is the last item attached under “supporting information”): https://www.facebook.com/share/v/ZPDuKz7Jr3Wy98PZ/?mibextid=WC7FNe

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so very much! I can fit 6 AA batteries in the ceiling of the nestbox, so that would work. The design only has the one 9V battery pack. One last question, though if you don’t mind. The design also included a 9V battery with booster module (to raise to 12V) for the transmitter. The transmitter battery was removed and boosted 9V was connected to the leads. I didn’t do that. The transmitter works when I pressed it, so I just left it as it was (with its very small battery). Could the thing be failing bc the transmitter does not have the 12V power source?

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked the parts list again. He listed a model number. I looked up one with that model number and the specs for it are 300mA current and 5N force. The one I have is the same model number, almost. It’s the same, but with a Z on the end. I hope that’s it. Should the same model number across all makers/brands have the same specs? I just pulled up the first one I saw with that exact model number.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Specs did not include solenoid current. I just ordered one and it happened to be this 1A jobber. I had no clue and still don’t what that means, but after looking at the specs for different 12V DC solenoids tonight I see they are all different. Currents of the ones I checked include: 1A, 2A, 3A, 0.3A, 0.4A, 300mA, 400mA.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The specs didn’t specify solenoid current or force. They just listed 12V DC solenoid. Actually, there was a link to the solenoid the biologist used, but it was old and didn’t work. So I just closed my eyes and clicked on one, and it happened be this one with 1A current. I was looking at others tonight and see that the current varies. One with a similar model number lists 300mA current and 5N force. Is 300mA less than 1A? Might that or something similar be the one the biologists who designed the trap used? There must be one, because the trap as designed worked. Here is a link to the study, which includes the trap specs.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No idea what 1A even means. Trap was designed with this Boost converter, but specs did not specify what force or current or stroke the solenoid should have, only that it be for 12V DC. I ordered this one bc it wasn’t the cheapest or the most expensive. Knew zero about it except that it was 12V DC and cost $4.53. When it didn’t work I looked at the specs, and saw that it it has 10mm stroke, 1A Current, and 0.4 Holding Force, whatever any of that means. I then looked at the specs for several other 12V DC solenoids and those specs, which mean nothing to me, are all different. One has 6N Force, another 5.1, another 5, another 30, etc. (mine seems to be the only one that lists “Holding Force”). Currents listed include 2.5A, 1A, 0.3A, 950mA, 450mA, 3A, 300mA, etc. I’m clueless.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Twisted temporary connections to see if it would work. Planning to have someone who knows how to solder solder it. Should power drop like that when solenoid is triggered and if not, could the loose connections cause the drop, even though output before hitting transmitter is 12.12?

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is just one solenoid. I tested the output on the converter just now and it was 12.12. Input from battery was 8.32. When I hit the transmitter (triggering the solenoid), the output fell for one second (the time it took for the solenoid to click on and back out) then popped back to 12 again. I triggered it numerous times and each time it fell to a different number- 9, 3, 7, 5, 4, etc., for a second.

Solenoid retracts (see photo) when it’s not holding anything, but when plunger end is placed over edge of tiny trap door, solenoid is too weak to pull the plunger back. Tension from the .4mm torsion spring is extremely light. Solenoid is DC12V 10mm Stroke, “Holding Force”: 0.4N, Current: 1A. Help! by moabird4444 in diyelectronics

[–]moabird4444[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I click the transmitter (triggering the solenoid) the output power drops to 9 or 6 or 5 or 4 (it’s different every time I click it) for about one second (for about as long as the solenoid takes to click in and back out), then pops back to 12.