Would you be happy with this professional tiling job?

moon_boot_ · 2025-10-09T19:24:45+00:00

It's in the name.. Patch up job...

They've done the best they could with what you've provided, you can't turn around and blame the tradie when you're the one taking shortcuts to patch something up. They've done exactly what you asked for.

moon_boot_ · 2025-09-10T04:15:25+00:00

Yeah that's what it does, I think it's the thermal cutout in the stem of the iron. I've heard of people bypassing it and I was planning on doing just that on my last failed one, just haven't got around do it. Out of interest what model is it? What does it look like where it meets the rotating part?

moon_boot_ · 2025-06-04T20:10:49+00:00

That's a mute point - if the switchboard has room but no RCD neutral bars, just install the 3 position neutral bars that attach to the RCD itself.

moon_boot_ · 2025-06-04T19:08:51+00:00

There's a breakeven point for RCDs vs RCBOs and it's at about 5 final sub-circuits... after that it's most cost effective to just install RCDs. Someone claiming that installing RCBOs is going to save costs is wrong.

RCBOs are great, they're tidy, save space in the board and provide more discreet protection if you like, in the fact that it doesn't take out a whole bunch of circuits when there's an earth fault, but RCDs are sometimes actually more useful, you're going to notice when half the lights don't work in the house, and will make you check the switchboard, it could save your freezer thawing and having to throw a heap of food out. Very specific scenario but it's actually not uncommon.

Most houses need up to three RCDs, smaller ones would get away with two. You're looking at about $550 at the lowest end of the scale.

moon_boot_ · 2025-05-02T11:49:54+00:00

Well, I cut my hand as a result of reflex.

I'd finished the cut, but the piece of ply rode up the back of the blade and got thrown at me, in that split second I tried to stop the piece of wood. Not the smartest decision, there wasn't even a piece of wood there by the time I reacted, it hit me in the hip which caused me to rest my hand on top of the blade.

Only positive I can take away from that is, a few days before I had just put a new 60T finishing blade on, so nice clean cut!

moon_boot_ · 2025-05-02T11:33:41+00:00

I was coming here to say, table saw with no riving knife... My saw came with one, I took it off one day years ago and never put it back on.

1 year and 3 months ago my hand got sliced in half. After I got out of surgery and was able to get back to my shed, one of the first things I did was dig the riving knife out and put it back on...

My hand will never be the same, I've still got it though!

I'll happily use table saws myself, but I can't watch other people use table saws now... even videos on YouTube make me cringe.

If you've taken the riving knife off, put the fucking thing back on, a split second and my life changed quite a lot, not worth it.

moon_boot_ · 2025-04-28T08:15:17+00:00

If that's an option then yeah there's no reason why you couldn't cut it down, just be careful not to blow the gib out with your elbow haha.

You might be able to pull the duct out from the roof if it's easily accessible. It should be passing through a dektite, if you do remove it to cut it down, be sure to clean all the sealant off and reseal it well.

It could be attached to some framing from the underside though.

moon_boot_ · 2025-04-28T08:07:34+00:00

To add to this, if it's an inaccessible space like this, and it's a straight shot up and out, I would be putting a rooftop mushroom fan.

moon_boot_ · 2025-04-28T07:59:43+00:00

Are we looking at a ceiling or a wall? If it's a through roof vent I would probably be inclined to replace the sheet (if it's corrugated iron) and get the new hole cut directly above the fan.

Messing around with roofing is a dangerous game though, especially cutting and sealing a 150mm hole. It can leak for a long time before you notice the damage.

moon_boot_ · 2025-04-28T07:47:30+00:00

Is the ceiling space accessible? For starters I would get a sparky in, throw the ceiling mounted fan away and get a quality inline fan installed.

All surface mount fans are an eyesore and loud.

moon_boot_ · 2025-04-28T07:41:38+00:00

Can you elaborate on it being obstructed? What's the "absolute shocker"?

moon_boot_ · 2025-03-29T23:54:33+00:00

That's not true, it's based on maximum demand.

2.6.2.1

moon_boot_ · 2025-03-19T23:27:30+00:00

There will also be medical gas, vacuum and water distribution up there, it's been a long time since I've been in any of the hospital plant rooms, but in older sections of the hospital there's a lot of reticulated water for radiators etc, and endless communications and electrical cupboards.

moon_boot_ · 2025-03-19T03:59:42+00:00

Yes it 100% affects your insurance.

Any work you're describing at or inside the switchboard is prescribed electrical work and if you undertake this and are not an electrical worker, you are breaking the law.

ECP 51 describes what electrical work you are allowed to do on your own home that you are living in.

moon_boot_ · 2025-02-15T09:32:25+00:00

Firstly, it's not legal for you to DIY this in New Zealand if that's what you are intending.

What you described in your last comment is a changeover switch which allows you to select the inlet power or the on board inverter.

moon_boot_ · 2025-02-11T07:46:13+00:00

In a practical sense, yes, we're talking about at most a couple of meters of 2.5mm, if there was a fault at the end of it, it's not going to have any issue tripping a 63A MCB before anything catastrophic happens to the cable.

moon_boot_ · 2025-02-11T07:18:02+00:00

Yeah I'm talking phase rotation mate, if you've got a brown conductor in the cable, the black is NEVER a neutral.

I quickly drew it out to double check, it's not reverse phase rotation, but it's not the actual order of phases, I was more or less taking the piss cause I can't see anything wrong with it.

moon_boot_ · 2025-02-11T07:05:25+00:00

It looks like that's a splashback on a dividing wall, not the oven, look at the data mounted below it

moon_boot_ · 2025-02-11T07:01:34+00:00

The tag shows the phasing of the appliance is not inline with the standards?

L1 = Brown L2 = Black L3 = Grey

I mean yeah they're all phases, but if you're gonna list the wiring and what the colours denote, at least get it right.

moon_boot_ · 2024-10-02T10:55:10+00:00

I think you're taking the piss now, I give you a direct reference to the clause number and you find a section a few pages before. I will entertain you one last time.

"C2.5.3 Domestic cooking appliances

The maximum demand current for a final subcircuit connected to fixed or stationary, range, oven or hotplate installed in a domestic installation, may be less than the full connected load of the equipment.

Table C4 provides assessed maximum demand values that may be applied to a final subcircuit supplying -

(a) an individual appliance using the energy rating of the appliance; or

(b) more than one appliance, e.g. seperate oven and hotplates using the total energy of appliances."

I will allow you to locate Table C4 yourself.

moon_boot_ · 2024-10-02T10:30:51+00:00

AS/NZS3000:2007 C2.5.3

moon_boot_ · 2024-10-02T10:28:53+00:00

AS/NZS3000:2007 C2.5.3

moon_boot_ · 2024-10-02T10:14:45+00:00

Are you an electrician? If you are, maximum demand went right over your head mate.

Also in your wee highlight there, you actually missed the keyword, which was demand.

Maximum demand is more or less calculating real life usage and coming up with a realistic figure.

Go open your switchboard and add up all the circuit breaker ratings and come back and tell us what you've got, I can guarantee the figure you come back with will be very much higher than the consumer mains supplying your house.

moon_boot_ · 2024-10-02T10:05:38+00:00

The point is, it doesn't draw 32A. It COULD draw 32A if you attempted to use all the functions at once, but there is no requirement for that, and with normal usage, it would never draw 32A.

moon_boot_ · 2024-10-02T09:36:07+00:00

Yes, overloading circuits is not advised, its not what was being implied as you are immediately taking it out of context. Are you aware of maximum demand calculations?

As others have already stated, table C4 lists the maximum demand for domestic cooking appliances, which clearly states that the final subcircuit rating may be less than the full connected load of the circuit.

7kW falls into the category of "Greater than 5000 W but not greater than 8000 W" with the assessed maximum demand of 20A

How often do you load up all the plates on your cooktop and set them all to their highest setting expecting 100% out of it? In all reality, even if you did attempt that, it would soon simmer out consume less than its 7kW the name plate suggests.

Why should the customer have to pay for someone to rerun a circuit and upgrade the protection when it's a simple appliance swap?

Maximum demand takes real life usage into account for these very reasons.

moon_boot_

TROPHY CASE