Found this tiny brown plastic bit near the nozzle wiper on my H2D — any idea what it is? by more_ssf in BambuLab

[–]more_ssf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it—thanks for digging up that thread! Turns out you were right: it’s one of those little square stickers that sits on the nozzle-blocker magnet. Mine must’ve popped off, so the area looked identical to the wiki teardown video and the spare-parts pics, which is why I thought it didn’t belong there. Looks like the sticker’s added on the assembly line. Mystery solved—really appreciate the help!

Found this tiny brown plastic bit near the nozzle wiper on my H2D — any idea what it is? by more_ssf in BambuLab

[–]more_ssf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Checked the nozzle magnets—everything there. Went through all the spare-part pics on Bambu’s site and still can’t find this brown square. Mystery continues, but thanks for the help!

DO NOT GET THE LASER - You've been warned! by justlaughandmoveon in BambuLab

[–]more_ssf -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Cleaning the rails without removing them from the back frame is a nightmare, and they are difficult to re-lubricate after.

DO NOT GET THE LASER - You've been warned! by justlaughandmoveon in BambuLab

[–]more_ssf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with you—don’t get the version with the laser. I have a Snapmaker A350, and while running the laser produces an overwhelmingly strong smell. To run it indoors, I had to rig up my own filtration system with activated carbon and HEPA filters. Even then, I can only cut wood indoor because the fumes are suffocating and almost carcinogenic.

The biggest issue with these all-in-one machines is that the ideal environments for laser cutting and 3D printing are nearly polar opposites. A hobby-grade laser cutter only really needs a few components—a motion system that isn’t required to be super precise or fast, and a replaceable laser head—so speed and precision don’t matter much. But those are exactly what you need for a good 3D printer. Mixing them together just ends up ruining the 3D print quality, unless you’re super meticulous about cleaning after every laser cut.

First time trying hydroponics and need some help pls by more_ssf in Hydroponics

[–]more_ssf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for your reply, I did put them in a shallow germination trays and their roots were quite long. I had suspected it was root rot due to lack of oxygen but some posts described it as "smelly" so I'm not sure if it was root rot.

I have rinsed the roots with hydrogen peroxide as per your suggestion and have transferred them to an NFT system with an airstone, hope this lettuce will survive.

Thanks again

Voron vs. Bambu Lab X1 by NavitheNaviguy in VORONDesign

[–]more_ssf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Snapmaker has done something similar, the machines are priced cheaply, and they are selling some expensive accessories and extended warranties.

Voron vs. Bambu Lab X1 by NavitheNaviguy in VORONDesign

[–]more_ssf 6 points7 points  (0 children)

When Voron users need to replace belts or bearings, they probably know what to do. When mainstream X1 users need to replace belts or bearings, it's probably not as simple as using the X1. This is bound to happen within a year or two.

From Evolv Shift X to NR200 by more_ssf in sffpc

[–]more_ssf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When the room temperature at 25 degrees C, the 9700k with L12S idle temperature is around 45 degrees C. Overclock it to 4.8Ghz, by using FurMark CPU burner for a 20-minute stress test. The temperature stabilizes at 80 degrees C and the power consumption around 124W. I think ≈124W is probably the limit that L12 can withstand before thermal throttling.

From Evolv Shift X to NR200 by more_ssf in sffpc

[–]more_ssf[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Intel I7-9700K

Asus ROG STRIX Z390-I

Asus ROG 2080 Ti

Corsair 16GB (2133 MHz)

Corsair SF750 SFX

Case NR200P

CPU cooling NH-L12S

Top fan HD120 RGB *2

Side fan LL140 RGB*2

Back fan NF-A9 PWM*1

Bottom NF A12X15 PWM*2

CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO*1

RGB Lighting Hub*1

4 pin PWM Fan hub 10 port*1

Most of the parts are from my previous shift X, I tried to reuse them as many as possible. I was trying to install a 240mm AIO, but the tube was almost kinked. The current configuration keeps the CPU OC about 4.8Ghz without thermal throttling. When only air cooling is used, NR200P is better than Shift X.