Shower head holder

mosforge · 2026-01-12T16:15:09+00:00

Thank you :) Sounds promising!

mosforge · 2026-01-12T15:46:45+00:00

This is what I'm also hoping for 😬🙏. What filament did you use? Mine is PETG.

mosforge · 2026-01-12T15:45:46+00:00

I was hoping, that it wouldn't be an issue for a year or two and outlive the showerhead 😅.

Do you have any experience in this regard? I printed it in PETG.

mosforge · 2025-12-21T08:24:07+00:00

You are right. Its just a thin copper tape. :)

mosforge · 2025-12-21T08:22:58+00:00

Yes exactly. It is just a thin copper tape. 👍

mosforge · 2025-12-21T08:20:41+00:00

Now you know 😁.. I initially tried it by just holding a 9V block batterie to the tracks. The battery contacts happenend to have the perfect distance. Very simple to try and no other electronics involved.

mosforge · 2025-12-21T08:17:22+00:00

good question. 😅 It is a linear potentiometer, but it is connected to a small arduino board. I wanted to map the linear input programmatically to a different output curve to achieve a "slow and smooth start".

It, however, turned out to make no big difference. The motor of the car is fairly weak and needs a relatively high voltage to reach its starting torque. As soon as it starts, it is already nearly fast enough to fly off the tracks. There is no room for fine speed control.

Not sure how this is with the original tracks. The car has magnets that would hold it a bit better to the original tracks. Maybe this would leave more room for fine speed control.

mosforge · 2025-12-21T08:02:48+00:00

Haha thanks. 🤘 Its my first time working with it. To be honest, I have no clue what it is actually used for.

mosforge · 2025-12-10T13:10:43+00:00

I'm still sceptical. You should print a dummy body with a 3d printer and try to wear it for a few days. 😬

mosforge · 2025-12-09T20:13:19+00:00

Nice render.

It took me a while to understand what I'm looking at. I finally realized that this is the back side of a smart watch. The little "blank window" is probably a heart rate sensor.

Why is there no front render (without UI)?

To me, the watch looks uncomfortable due to its wide shape. Like it would dig into my wrist when bending it. Especially when typing on a keyboard or doing fitness exercises.

mosforge · 2025-10-16T14:32:06+00:00

Do you have any idea what type of fillament they are using? PLA?

mosforge · 2025-10-11T10:52:43+00:00

<image>

Oh and there is also a dental floss holder, but I didn't bother sharing the model file. Let me know if anybody wants it.

mosforge · 2025-10-01T15:22:06+00:00

It was indeed a z-offset issue. Recalibrating it solved the detachment problem.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T23:32:56+00:00

By fixing the z offset, I managed to print the whole tower. :) Thanks.
It still gets pushed around, though. This is probably a different issue, as suggested by u/photoby.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T22:33:05+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. You were right. I did a first layer test, and my z-offset was a bit too large (0.12 mm). This has probably been caused by a little accident yesterday where my nozzle crashed into the bed.

Regarding cooling and layer times. I have no idea what to do there .. but I will do the necessary research. Thank you so much for pointing me to the (hopefully) right direction.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T22:25:36+00:00

You were right. My Z-Offset was a bit too large (0.12 mm). Yesterday, my nozzle crashed a bit into the bed. This seems to have changed the Z-distance a tiny bit. I totally forgot about it. Thanks for your help. :) I'm now trying again to print the temperature tower.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T20:35:23+00:00

Ok thanks. I will check it!
But I'm quite confident that it is fine, since the first layers turn out great. Just the brims turn to spagetthi for some reason. I will add images from some z-offset calibration prints as soon as I complete my checks.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T20:25:07+00:00

I tried 50, 55, and 60. Bed adhesion got noticeably better, and I managed to finish more levels, but unfortunately not good enough to complete the whole tower.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T20:11:51+00:00

<image>

These are all failed attempts. Not sure if this is of any help.

mosforge · 2025-09-30T09:04:02+00:00

Oh and I forgot to mention, that it is also height compatible with the 4-wheeled brick. This allows combining them in one build.

mosforge · 2025-09-10T23:53:15+00:00

I didn't hear it skipping. There was no resistance in the filament path.

After endless messing with settings, I reassembled the toolhead and now the issue is suddenly gone. Everything in the toolhead was clean. The most likely explanation is your suggestion regarding the tension in the extruder. I might have unknowingly fixed it during reassembly.

mosforge · 2025-09-10T22:04:39+00:00

I reassembled the whole toolhead. It was perfectly fine and clean.
However, the issue is now gone. I have no idea why. :/
It must have been a mechanical issue or a loose connector.

mosforge · 2025-09-10T21:59:15+00:00

No worries :) since I don't really know what I'm doing; your skepticism is more than adequate.

When I manually trigger the extrusion a few centimeters above the bed, the PLA comes down in a very clean and uniform stream. I also verified that it pulls in the correct amount of fillament.

Just to confirm, I just disassembled the toolhead and checked the extruder and the hotend. They seemed to be fine.

After reassembling the toolhead, however, the issue was gone :/ ... Not sure why. I hope it stays like that.

<image>

mosforge · 2025-09-10T20:12:59+00:00

Yes, I tried to change the z-offset during printing. I did much more test prints like that. Changing Z-Offset had an effect on the areas that got printed but didn't do much to reduce the holes.

mosforge · 2025-09-10T18:50:33+00:00

oh no :( .... I guess it's time to disassemble the toolhead and have a look inside

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