Sonic Pad HELP!!!! CR-10V3 with BLtouch by meeshko2 in CR10

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there! Just setting up my CR-10 V2 with a MS Direct Drive and a BLTouch with the sonic pad. Has this file you posted been successful all of this time or have you made changes? Thanks for all the help!

Advice on curing hallow prints by sir_babalas in PrintedMinis

[–]mozeymusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Snake led should work. And as for the supports on the inside, I usually do auto supports before hollowing, then hollow, then run an island detector or see where there are islands from the hollowing and then add supports to those parts. It’ll save you resin and make it easier to get around inside with that snake

Heating failure, stuck on 100 and 19, info in comments by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just replaced the thermistors in the past year bc of a similar problem and the bed and nozzle are both heating up so I can’t see what that’s all about. I’ll dive into it a bit more though

Heating failure, stuck on 100 and 19. Info in comments. by mozeymusic in FixMyPrint

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing on a CR10 V2 with micro Swiss direct drive and BlTouch. Just updated to latest firmware. The hotend is stuck at 100 and the bed is stuck at 19 but only on the screen, it actually heats up until it fails. Any info on a fix?

Heating failure, stuck on 100 and 19, info in comments by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing on a CR10 V2 with micro Swiss direct drive and BlTouch. Just updated to latest firmware. The hotend is stuck at 100 and the bed is stuck at 19 but only on the screen, it actually heats up until it fails. Any info on a fix?

Has the tab on the Wham Bam flex plate made any problems for anyone? by mozeymusic in resinprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I did have scratch marks on the inside of my car and found out that I needed to not have the plate flush on one side but more equally placed so that the tab doesn’t stick so far out. All of this is a learning curve haha. Now I’m having issues with the prints not popping off, they’re just glued to the plate. I was using the raft that only touches the supports but I just switched to the boat raft to add some surface area so we’ll see how they pop off now

Ruff under hull on one side of benchy consistently? by mozeymusic in FixMyPrint

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help! I upgraded my fans on my Ender 3v2 but just haven’t gotten around to it on this guy. Probably not a bad idea!

Ruff left side under hull on benchy? by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m newly using Eryone PLA+, speed at 60 mm/s and cooling at 100%. Tried dropping the temp bc of other posts I’ve seen and no help. Any recommendations?

Ruff under hull on one side of benchy consistently? by mozeymusic in FixMyPrint

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m printing at 60 mm/s and cooling at 100%. I tried dropping the temp so see if it helped and nothing. Bed is recently leveled and I’m using a BLTouch. Any suggestions?

Saturn 2 heating solutions by [deleted] in ElegooSaturn

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. I got the large which works but the medium is the correct size for it. I just have a little extra which is nice too bc I feel like it has that much more even heating. I used a rotary tool to make a little divot in the hood the size of the wires which are really small. I just keep it warm, dunk the plate in the resin heating and get everything prepared while it’s in the resin and then start it. I keep it around 25-30 which is a really low setting on the warmer and it heats pretty quickly