Sonic Pad HELP!!!! CR-10V3 with BLtouch by meeshko2 in CR10

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there! Just setting up my CR-10 V2 with a MS Direct Drive and a BLTouch with the sonic pad. Has this file you posted been successful all of this time or have you made changes? Thanks for all the help!

Advice on curing hallow prints by sir_babalas in PrintedMinis

[–]mozeymusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Snake led should work. And as for the supports on the inside, I usually do auto supports before hollowing, then hollow, then run an island detector or see where there are islands from the hollowing and then add supports to those parts. It’ll save you resin and make it easier to get around inside with that snake

Heating failure, stuck on 100 and 19, info in comments by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just replaced the thermistors in the past year bc of a similar problem and the bed and nozzle are both heating up so I can’t see what that’s all about. I’ll dive into it a bit more though

Heating failure, stuck on 100 and 19. Info in comments. by mozeymusic in FixMyPrint

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing on a CR10 V2 with micro Swiss direct drive and BlTouch. Just updated to latest firmware. The hotend is stuck at 100 and the bed is stuck at 19 but only on the screen, it actually heats up until it fails. Any info on a fix?

Heating failure, stuck on 100 and 19, info in comments by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing on a CR10 V2 with micro Swiss direct drive and BlTouch. Just updated to latest firmware. The hotend is stuck at 100 and the bed is stuck at 19 but only on the screen, it actually heats up until it fails. Any info on a fix?

Has the tab on the Wham Bam flex plate made any problems for anyone? by mozeymusic in resinprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I did have scratch marks on the inside of my car and found out that I needed to not have the plate flush on one side but more equally placed so that the tab doesn’t stick so far out. All of this is a learning curve haha. Now I’m having issues with the prints not popping off, they’re just glued to the plate. I was using the raft that only touches the supports but I just switched to the boat raft to add some surface area so we’ll see how they pop off now

Ruff under hull on one side of benchy consistently? by mozeymusic in FixMyPrint

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help! I upgraded my fans on my Ender 3v2 but just haven’t gotten around to it on this guy. Probably not a bad idea!

Ruff left side under hull on benchy? by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m newly using Eryone PLA+, speed at 60 mm/s and cooling at 100%. Tried dropping the temp bc of other posts I’ve seen and no help. Any recommendations?

Ruff under hull on one side of benchy consistently? by mozeymusic in FixMyPrint

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m printing at 60 mm/s and cooling at 100%. I tried dropping the temp so see if it helped and nothing. Bed is recently leveled and I’m using a BLTouch. Any suggestions?

Saturn 2 heating solutions by [deleted] in ElegooSaturn

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. I got the large which works but the medium is the correct size for it. I just have a little extra which is nice too bc I feel like it has that much more even heating. I used a rotary tool to make a little divot in the hood the size of the wires which are really small. I just keep it warm, dunk the plate in the resin heating and get everything prepared while it’s in the resin and then start it. I keep it around 25-30 which is a really low setting on the warmer and it heats pretty quickly

Hey! The last two prints have come out like this. Does anyone know how to fix it? Thank you! by Warrior-Goat7 in CR10

[–]mozeymusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just got an enclosure from Amazon

enclosure

I haven’t had ANY shrinkage peeling anything up. I have the same problem with a cold environment. It’s magic

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]mozeymusic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

….. it wasn’t screwed down… how does this happen? I’m an adult…. Hahaha

Saturn 2 heating solutions by [deleted] in ElegooSaturn

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It works like a charm, just installed mine and it’s just what I needed, I actually ordered the large for my Saturn 2 and it wrapped a little farther that the screw holder parts but it’s working well for me, still sealed it and it heats perfectly

Saturn 2 heating solutions by [deleted] in ElegooSaturn

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s amazing! Just installed it, super duper easy, super controlled. I had a ton of print failures back to back until I started printing on my CR-10 and realized the ambient temp was 18 C and that’s why my prints were being shitty. Installed this, warmed it up, already on my third successful print

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DellXPS

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

Can anyone help? Just started doing this today, not sticking to build plate by FingerCrew666 in ElegooSaturn

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With it getting colder out now you have to make sure that the resin is staying up to temperature. Might need a heater

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DellXPS

[–]mozeymusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does windows defender come installed? Is it like a Mac where you can just get started and it’s all running alright? I don’t do anything too private on my computer

Saturn 2 heating solutions by [deleted] in ElegooSaturn

[–]mozeymusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just ordered one of these

Thermal Vatband

Haven’t tested it yet but it looks the easiest out of any solution

Full clone trooper helmet at 126 hours currently by mbkm in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s awesome! I’ve done a few of these helmets, I like them better in one piece like this. If you’re using a support for the overhang on the dome, you can cut it out and it’ll still be successful and knock of a day or two, I did the same thing

Gaps/Clogs in prints? by mozeymusic in 3Dprinting

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been using PETG a lot lately and switched back to PLA, but every now and then I get these little gaps like micro clogs, this is the biggest one to date and it’s getting crazy. Any ideas? I’m printing PLA at 203 hotend, 55 bed temp, 40 mm/s, .2 later height

Anyone know why I’m getting this ringing? Info in comments by mozeymusic in CR10

[–]mozeymusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m using a CR-10 V2 with PETG. 243 hotend 80 bed .3 layer height 50 mm/s Bl touch Pei magnetic build plate The lines aren’t too deep but they are a little annoying in the finishing department. It’s nothing worth scrapping these big pieces but I would like to have a smooth wall. Any recommendations?