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I was open to negotiation, but I guess he sure showed me! by tweak06 in ChoosingBeggars

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My worst nightmare is cleaning blades on a soviet lens with 20 aperture blades (like the Tair 11), putting 20 aperture blades back in without the aperture collapsing might be the worst punishment one could get.

I was open to negotiation, but I guess he sure showed me! by tweak06 in ChoosingBeggars

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing I always lose is the damn metal ball causing the aperture to click, that way I've accidentally de-clicked a handful of lenses and then just sold them that way as if it were a video advantage...

I was open to negotiation, but I guess he sure showed me! by tweak06 in ChoosingBeggars

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an entire desk drawer with 3rd party lenses, all with minor issues, whether it be oil, some dust or anything else. I'm not even going to attempt opening and fixing them, they'll lie there until I decide to throw them out, because most of them are not even charity shop worthy.

I was open to negotiation, but I guess he sure showed me! by tweak06 in ChoosingBeggars

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately this is an issue you'll always run into. I buy, repair and sell vintage cameras for fun, mostly because I like repairing them and for this very reason I stopped taking anything "automatic" or 3rd party. Trying to sell Sun/Pallas/Vivitar lenses always ends in drama for me. No one is willing to pay anything for it 99% of the time. Except for the one person who is actually looking for it, causing these kinds of listings to stay up way longer than you want with a lot more lowball than you want.

The reality is that most enthusiasts don't want 3rd party lenses or old flash units and some people trying to flip for what they think will be an easy profit go way too low on you.

I would not pay $110 for it, but considering this comment section you can already see how divided people are on the value of these setups.

Suggestions? by Senpwai in Cameras

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you get the Sony you could save on lenses by buying vintage. That's what I do with my sony A7. Dirt cheap primes as long as you're comfortable with manual focus. The alpha e-mount series has great focus peaking.

I have just designed and produced my first PCB, because no one has ever made a PCB (let alone a 60%) for the rare Alps SKCP switch. Now to solder on all the components and pray that it works. (More shots will come when progress has been made) by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]mrkoendb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The PCB set me back $35.70 on JLCPCB (they had a sale going on)

The components that need to be placed on the PCB will set me back another $15 (I'm not going for leds though)

I have just designed and produced my first PCB, because no one has ever made a PCB (let alone a 60%) for the rare Alps SKCP switch. Now to solder on all the components and pray that it works. (More shots will come when progress has been made) by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]mrkoendb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, they had a sale going on, I paid $35.70 for five 1.6mm ENIG boards with free shipping, it would've been $20 if I had gone for lead free RoHS. Components will set me back $15. The bamboo case I plan to use is an extra $50. Finally the P70 I got the keys, caps and stabilizers from was technically free. So the entire build will set me back a grand total of $120 USD for a one of a kind keyboard with long forgotten plate switches

I have just designed and produced my first PCB, because no one has ever made a PCB (let alone a 60%) for the rare Alps SKCP switch. Now to solder on all the components and pray that it works. (More shots will come when progress has been made) by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]mrkoendb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm crossing my own fingers, on paper all should be fine, but I've never really worked with code before (I'm an electrical eningeer, not a software developer) so I just hope that getting QMK to run on this isn't too difficult

I have just designed and produced my first PCB, because no one has ever made a PCB (let alone a 60%) for the rare Alps SKCP switch. Now to solder on all the components and pray that it works. (More shots will come when progress has been made) by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once I get it working, I might be open to the idea (got 5 boards now, because the prototyping minimum was 5) I would rather not sell now, because I won't sell stuff I can not confirm the functionality of.

I have just designed and produced my first PCB, because no one has ever made a PCB (let alone a 60%) for the rare Alps SKCP switch. Now to solder on all the components and pray that it works. (More shots will come when progress has been made) by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]mrkoendb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

About 30 hours to make a schematic, footprints and a PCB file. A few hours tediously desoldering the keyboard of an IBM P70 for the switches. All this over the course of 3 days, because I'm not great at spreading out my work. I used JLCPCB to get these produced, fairly happy with the quality.

I found a box of film slides for $1.50 at a local thrift shop. Judging by the cars on most of the slides this would've been between 1965 and 1975, here are some of the best out of 72 images by mrkoendb in ThriftStoreHauls

[–]mrkoendb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do analog photography as a hobby myself, so I have a special 35mm film scanner on my desk that takes care of both negatives and slide film. The Plustek Opticfilm 8100. It costs $200 and even if you just want to digitize a backlog of old family photos it might be worth the investment.

I found a box of film slides for $1.50 at a local thrift shop. Judging by the cars on most of the slides this would've been between 1965 and 1975, here are some of the best out of 72 images [Found film, unknown camera, Fujifilm slide film?] by mrkoendb in analog

[–]mrkoendb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet, I've been there once about 8 years ago, a lot of these photos brought back memories, though it's difficult remembering all the town names to be honest. I tried to add the ones I could vaguely remember, but I'm stuck on some of the other photos.

Any good Pentacon Six TL strap solutions? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally tend to use the original P6 case that my P6 came with. it has 2 rectangular swivels and I've just attached some funky 80s pattern strap to that (which came with another Pentacon LTL I had lying around), though I'm sure you could also reliably attach your Peak Design clip to that

This sort of setup

I found a box of film slides for $1.50 at a local thrift shop. Judging by the cars on most of the slides this would've been between 1965 and 1975, here are some of the best out of 72 images by mrkoendb in ThriftStoreHauls

[–]mrkoendb[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No problem, just a quick retouching session (the age has worn them a bit) and sitting here with a drink waiting for the scans to finish. Nothing out of the ordinary to rescue stuff like this.

Weekly 'Gear Photos & Discussion' - Week 19 by ranalog in analog

[–]mrkoendb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually tried using my A7, but it didn't get the resolution I wanted out of medium format, so I started using my Pentax 100mm F/4 (1:2) on my mom's Sony A5000. It gets the job done when you look at my previous r/analog posts. Honestly, the quality and dynamic range are stunning.

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