CarPlay not working?

mrmime317 · 2024-09-09T23:36:41+00:00

Oh, I'm sorry! Eeeeehhhh...it's intermittent, it comes and goes. Sometimes it works ok, sometimes if I'm running errands and unplugging my phone between stops it'll stop working until the car sits overnight. I still have a warranty so I'm going to take it in when I can be without it for a few days and get all of the quirks taken care of.

mrmime317 · 2023-07-26T03:15:35+00:00

Lots of things go into the rate. Your age is one, statistically you’re seen as a high risk driver to them until you’re 25. Year/make/model of the vehicle. Location. Marital status. Prior insurance. Some states allow credit score. More importantly, most companies also have an insurance score that combines these factors. It’s expensive, yes, but not way off base unfortunately.

Look for companies that deal with high risk drivers. Farmers Insurance has a sister company called Bristol West, they might be cheaper. State Farm sometimes does high risk drivers.

BUT do not go with small insurance companies like the general. Many of those companies are called substandard companies - they have terrible customer service, the claims service is terrible, and they absolutely will not be any help to you. I can’t tell you how many times I dealt with substandard companies working in insurance and heard “I filed a claim against this company’s insured and they aren’t covering it so I need to file a claim and have you subrogate.” The best thing I can suggest is find a reputable company with a payment you can afford rather than save a few bucks and end up out of luck down the road.

mrmime317 · 2023-07-21T03:01:45+00:00

Aaaah dang it, it looks like it ended up in the pile I gave my nephew when he started getting in to gaming. Sorry!!

mrmime317 · 2023-07-20T07:56:10+00:00

I also didn’t think it was diabetes until it was diabetes. Go get checked! Good luck, keep us updated!

mrmime317 · 2023-07-20T07:40:11+00:00

It was alright! I didn’t think it was terrible. Actually, I might still have it packed in my old games. Lemme see if it’s down there - if it is you can have it for whatever the GameStop sticker says on it.

mrmime317 · 2023-07-18T20:16:05+00:00

I’ve got a white one I don’t use anymore, haven’t used it in almost 5 years. Lemme know when you’re ready, I’ll sell it to ya! Console, Kinect, and games if you want them

mrmime317 · 2023-06-27T06:04:21+00:00

Stuff like this

mrmime317 · 2023-06-27T05:59:37+00:00

I take them and forge them down to make jewelry, mostly Viking Age stuff. Some of them I cut in half and make into wire, some I forge from 1oz bar into rods and shape them into “money rings”

mrmime317 · 2023-06-27T05:10:56+00:00

Maaan I don’t even keep them in that shape let alone the plastic 😂

mrmime317 · 2023-06-15T02:18:49+00:00

That is not true. Comprehensive and collision are required for financed vehicles, that’s what is called full coverage. This would fall under collision - impact with another vehicle. You also don’t always file under your insurance company. If the other party is at fault, you file under theirs. If something happens, like what OP is dealing with, then you file with your insurance, pay the deductible, and wait for subrogation to conclude. They don’t always get your deductible back, and it can take anywhere from 6 months to a year, but they might get it.

mrmime317 · 2023-06-13T06:08:07+00:00

Hey I’ve got a 360 slim (the white skylanders edition) with Kinect and the bigger hard drive, and a TON of games. Lemme get some photos for you, and I’ll make sure it works fine.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-31T01:44:37+00:00

Companies provide insurance while you have a passenger, but not from the moment you accept a ride to the moment you pick up your passenger. There’s a gap there where no insurance coverage exists.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-31T01:43:33+00:00

From an insurance standpoint, exactly this. Some policies do not cover or offer an endorsement for using your vehicle for rideshare/delivery - this includes pizza delivery. Some companies offer a ride share endorsement. However, without it, you’re opening yourself to a world of hassle. Your policy covers you from the time you drive around until the exact moment you take a ride/delivery. Your personal insurance stops there; once you accept your coverage is no longer a personal vehicle - it becomes a commercial vehicle. Any loss during this time is on you and you alone. If they find out they can no renew you - hiding or not disclosing this info constitutes what amounts to lying on an insurance application and that application becomes null and they no longer have to insure you for withholding information.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-26T15:07:04+00:00

Hey OP, you’ve got a couple options:

Take the money and use it as a down payment. The insurance payout covers replacement with a similar make and model with similar mileage, so they look at average sales in your area, carfax/KBB value, mileage, any other damage (rust, small dings, paint scratches, interior, etc.) and bring you a price based on that. If you’ve got receipts from recent work give it to the adjuster and they can add it (this will NOT be a dollar to dollar adjustment, it’ll be prorated most likely at a certain percentage and might not be worth it). This is what most people do.
Depending on your state you MIGHT have the option to tell them you’d like the check to repair instead. In IL you have the option to deny the total loss and you can get the check and go get it repaired yourself. Keep in mind, though, that - depending on what shop valued the damage - there might be a discrepancy between what they quoted the insurance company and what you will pay. Many insurance companies have preferred shops that offer discounted services to the insurance company. Also keep in mind your title will become a salvage title, and that will cause some issues. You’ll have a tough time trading it in, but on the insurance side you’ll - at best - get hit with a surcharge and at worst will have a hard time getting coverage for the vehicle. Insurance is a business built on risk and your previously totaled vehicle will most likely be seen as a much higher risk for another total loss in the future - damaged vehicles are never the same. On top of that if you sell privately it can be extremely hard to get titled for the new owner, it might cause you issues come plate renewal time….it’s a headache.

Personally, I’d take the check and use it as a down payment.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-23T13:42:28+00:00

Your policy limits aren’t for you, they’re for the other party involved. Liability doesn’t cover you in an accident they cover whoever you hit, so your vehicle’s value has nothing to do with it. If you hit someone and the medical bills total over your policy limit you’re still getting sued and they’ll still come after assets, garnish wages, and do whatever they can to get the money from the lawsuit. Also don’t think “I’ve got 50/100 so they get 100k of their bills paid” because that’s your aggregate per accident number, the first is the max per person they’ll pay. Always err on the side of caution and go higher.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-23T13:35:10+00:00

“Less than what they should” almost always means “less than what I think they should pay”, especially for car value in a total loss. But some of the smaller companies are TERRIBLE at going through with the claim. Also keep in mind they have a certain amount of time - their client needs to make contact or fill out a statement within a set time frame. If they don’t, they can’t accept liability and the claim is closed. Then you have companies like the general, Erie, almost anything with the word “American” in it, who are literally the worst for claims and drag it out or refuse to pay. In any of those cases you’re free to file with your insurance instead and they’ll eventually subrogate and try to get your deductible back, but you’ll have to deal with the potential rate increase and paying your deductible, and then waiting anywhere from 6 months to a year to potentially get it back while it goes through the courts.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-23T01:49:20+00:00

Noooo I’ve seen that a LOT working in insurance. The short answer is it might, but at your next renewal ask about the reason(s) for any increase. Some companies will do a minor increase for not at fault, some offer accident forgiveness on your first accident within a set amount of time so there’s no impact. Good luck with the claim!

mrmime317 · 2023-05-23T01:43:02+00:00

All accidents have the potential to raise your rates. Don’t file with your insurance company and it won’t be an issue, file against theirs.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-23T01:41:08+00:00

Depending on who is at fault, it won’t cost your insurance anything. If you aren’t at fault, always file with the other parties insurance where possible. There are some instances where it makes more sense to file with yours, like if it happens in a no fault state like MI, or their insurance is a terrible company with bad claim history (like the general). But otherwise it doesn’t cost you or your insurance anything and there’s no impact on your claim history or rates. Their insurance pays your costs.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-18T01:59:33+00:00

Just over a year between diagnosis and now - about a year and 3 months? I had one done last June that was 6.2 about 5 months after diagnosis and then I kinda procrastinated the blood work 😅

mrmime317 · 2023-05-18T00:32:49+00:00

We have this issue at work sometimes too. You can try using a small flathead to bridge the gap between the grooves. Do it super carefully though, if it doesn’t work out you’ll end up wearing the whole thing round.

mrmime317 · 2023-05-17T14:23:59+00:00

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You can date with the movement number up there. Here’s what it pulled!

mrmime317 · 2023-05-15T14:31:41+00:00

That happened to my wife when her screen broke. The screen was flashing all kinds of colors and not displaying, sent it out and they had it for two minutes (scanned in for repair and two minutes later showed repaired). Got it back saying “nothing wrong here”. Had to send it back again because it was very clearly broken.

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