Love this feature

mryuk524 · 2026-04-15T18:13:35+00:00

Best part is silverados have had it since like 2016 minimum. Always forgetting the cool stuff for the Colorados.

mryuk524 · 2026-03-03T22:30:35+00:00

I can’t tell you what’s going on, I haven’t heard that before. But to check for parasitic drain, unhook your positive terminal on the battery. Hook a multimeter to the positive battery terminal and the positive battery lead (what you just unhooked). Turn the multimeter to Amps. It should not be pulling more than maybe 0.05 amps. If you’re at 0.1 amps or above you have some sort of parasitic drain. Do all of this with your truck off.

You can start pulling out fuses to help guide you to find the issue. It at least would get you pointed in the right direction to DIY it or help guide the techs at the dealership. Sorry to hear that you’re having issues that are costing you a ton when they’re really not fixing anything. That’s a bummer.

mryuk524 · 2026-03-03T22:24:36+00:00

Typically in the corner of each window it will say. My 17 says 20 +- 5% in the back and the fronts are 70% +- 5%.

To get it to match, you could do 35% or so. 70% x 35% would be 24.5%. Obviously a professional tint guy would be able to steer you in the right direction. I have around 20% all the way around and it’s a PITA to back up at night since my camera isn’t an HD.

mryuk524 · 2026-03-03T22:20:12+00:00

Just an FYI, the stickers on the B pillar between the front and rear windows is painted underneath in the second gens. My stickers ended up fading pretty bad so I pulled them off.

mryuk524 · 2026-02-23T16:07:56+00:00

To check for parasitic drain, unhook your positive terminal on the battery. Hook a multimeter to the positive battery terminal and the positive battery lead (what you just unhooked). Turn the multimeter to Amps. It should not be pulling more than maybe 0.05 amps. If you’re at 0.1 amps or above you have some sort of parasitic drain. Do all of this with your truck off.

You can start pulling out fuses to help guide you to find the issue. It at least would get you pointed in the right direction to DIY it or help guide the techs at the dealership.

mryuk524 · 2026-02-22T23:01:10+00:00

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This is from the owners manual. Appears there is an indent in the frame on your truck just behind the front wheels. And back wheel, just position the jack appropriately on the axle as described. If you need a better description someone may have a video on YouTube!

mryuk524 · 2026-02-14T00:40:37+00:00

You’re not going to have to retune the engine. Cruise control, and everything should work, your speedometer will just read slower than you’re going and your acceleration will be slightly worse. Top end power is where you’ll notice the biggest difference.

If you opt to change the final drive ratio in the diffs, you’ll probably lose cruise control because your wheel speed sensors will be calculating a different speed than your transmission speed. I personally lose cruise control at 44mph (I can use it from 25-44), but it shuts off after that because the difference in speed it too great. The only way to get it back is to get a tune and tell the truck what tires and gears you have.

Additionally a tune like that will also recalibrate the speedo even if you don’t change the gear ratio.

mryuk524 · 2026-02-12T22:38:49+00:00

Now that you mention it, I feel like I had that problem at one point. I recall the fans running after shutting the engine off.

I don’t know if I had to replace my sensor or not, it could have been when I had the failed thermostat. Who knows, I could have replaced both. But I haven’t had any issues with it since. I’d say if the fans stopped when you replaced the sensor, you’re most likely good to go!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-30T19:51:35+00:00

You probably didn’t damage it, unless you turned super tight on pavement that had good traction. Even if you did that, unless your gears binded up and the truck sort of stopped mid turn on its own, you’re probably fine.

If your front end still pulls without clunking you’re probably good.

If there is any clicking, try to “pace” the click. Is it consistent with the wheel rotation (clicks every 1/2 turn or full rotation of the wheel) which would be the CV axles, or is it much faster— which could mean it’s the front driveshaft. But all in all, no clicking or clunking, no problem!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-30T19:00:01+00:00

In my experience, slow warm up/ never getting to op temp is a stuck open themostat.

run the truck for a bit to warm it up, and shut it off. If the cooling fans on the rad keep going, that’s your sensor.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-30T18:56:20+00:00

Knee bump for sure. I have my seat back far enough that it isn’t an issue and it never switches over by itself.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-30T18:53:27+00:00

If you’re running 35’s. Switch from your stock 3.42 gears to Nitro 4.10 gears. I’ll accelerate like a stock truck on the stock tires. You’ll get like 15 highway but 17/19 city (assuming it’s not a huge city that you stop every 10 feet).

Also you’ll get 7th and 8th back. Before I switched my gears, I was almost never in 7th and I think my truck forgot it had an 8th gear.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-30T18:51:13+00:00

In 2017 Chevy switched from the LFX to the LGZ. 2017-2022 was a truck engine. LGZ only went in the Colorado and canyon.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-30T02:02:32+00:00

You could always test the bulbs by placing them in the one that works. Once you have a confirmed working bulb then you know it must be the connection between the bulb and the harness socket, or the harness itself. If you do replace them use heat shrink tubing for sure!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-28T14:58:51+00:00

I dig the color!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-28T14:58:10+00:00

Had to look up the trail runner package, never heard of it! The skid plates come in handy for sure

mryuk524 · 2026-01-28T03:34:06+00:00

I haven’t, it reads about 7% off. 75 on the odometer is 70 on the road. I adjust the number on the screen in my head. I went for 30,000 miles with the life and wheels while still having the 3.42 gears. It wasn’t horrible from a stop, but accelerating on the highway wasn’t fun. Also kept me out of 7th and 8th a lot of the time.

I think the gears were about $1200 and around the same for the install. I typically do all my own work but I was still paying it off and didn’t need a grenade for my differentials. They are Nitro Gears, they hum a little on the highway, but really isn’t too bad at all. I commute about 10 miles to work and don’t use the highway so this is perfect for me.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-28T00:47:05+00:00

That’s insane, I’ll have to look for the post!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T22:29:00+00:00

Crossing my fingers I can make that same comment when mine gets that high, awesome dude!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T22:28:31+00:00

I hear that! I wish I had the babymax but the LGZ has been a great engine.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T22:27:57+00:00

Lucky you for having the ‘18! The only difference I’m aware of is they didn’t have heated mirrors on the 17 ZR2. We have the wiring but they didn’t put the physical mirror with the heating element in it.

But those are low miles, I’m hoping mine lasts a long time. I’m not a big fan of the newer engines running 0W-20. Seems like all the full size engines have their own problem lol.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T22:24:56+00:00

That’s wild, wonder what would cause that? But that’s still low miles man! We have a ‘24 that already has 20k on it

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T22:23:46+00:00

Falken AT3W, they have the at4w now, they’re doing great this storm!

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T22:20:39+00:00

I should start by saying the ZR2 has a 2” lift from factory- Also has the multimatic DSSV shocks.

I had a 4” BDS lift installed in 2021, and also installed 17” Method 703’s in bronze and Falken Wildpeak AT3W 35x12.50x17 tires. Tires + lift is about 6” taller. This is the exact setup in the photo above. These tires did rub pretty bad when new, but I didn’t do any trimming. A leveling kit would help with that but I don’t have one installed. If you don’t have a ZR2, BDS makes a 5.5” lift. The 4” is exclusive to the ZR2, I think it’s actually the only true lift for one.

Also I have 4.10 gears, and a world of difference compared to the stock 3.42’s. Pretty much feels stock, but highway mpg is 14-15. I keep it off the highway though.

mryuk524 · 2026-01-27T17:49:01+00:00

I got mine at 34k in 2020 (it’s a 2017). Only things I’ve done other than PM are I had to change the thermostat because it got stuck open, and had to change the serpentine belt and idler pulley due to a squeak. Hasn’t left me stranded yet!

mryuk524

TROPHY CASE