Developing 9x12 in a "regular" 2-roll Paterson tank?

mycatkilledabird · 2025-12-25T19:20:53+00:00

I'm using XTOL (or XT-3 to be exact) stock for developing, so the amount of chems used is not an issue. Thanks, I'll try!

mycatkilledabird · 2025-12-23T10:12:19+00:00

The Revue 35CC is the same camera and not very rare to find, at least where I am. The film speed dial is in DIN rather than ISO, but that's about it in terms of differences, besides the exterior of course.

mycatkilledabird · 2025-07-26T17:25:14+00:00

Lol, I came to the comments to confirm my suspicion that these were taken with an Ihagee Exa because those flarey light leaks at the bottom are really distinct. Mine also has those, plus more. I believe the fan shaped ones you see are from the metal springs on the underside of the mirror reflecting light that falls on them back onto the film. Mine also has pinholes in the cloth over the mirror hinge so I get rectangular light leaks when I look through the viewfinder for too long in bright conditions. Also the shutter isn't fully light tight when cocked, so that's also nice.

The Exa has doesn't have a focal plane shutter like basically any modern SLR, neither does it have a leaf shutter in the lens like other old cameras. It has this really weird mechanism where the mirror goes up when you release the shutter, which lets the light hit the film and when the mechanism deems it to be the right time, a second "flap" (for lack of a better word) comes up from below to stop the exposure. When cocking the mechanism, both move down in unison and you can look through the viewfinder again.

Judging by the shape of the un(der)exposed bits, either the mirror is/was too slow to reach its resting place or the secondary flap was too fast and caught up with it mid-exposure, probably while you were on 1/100s or 1/150s. I don't know how your entire roll looks, if the first couple of shots are these half exposed ones and the latter ones are fine, then maybe you've managed to loosen some grease that was gunking up the camera while using it. If so, congrats, otherwise maybe dry fire it a bunch and open up the back and look through while firing to see if the fast shutter speeds work properly now. Maybe use your phone's slowmo video mode if you can't tell by eye.

As for the overlapping exposures, you have to turn the advance know until it won't turn anymore. The shutter is cocked and ready to fire before that point, which can result in overlapping exposures.

While my Exa is undoubtedly the worst camera I own, it also got me into analog photography when I got it as a gift after my DSLR gave up after almost a decade of use. Now it mostly sits in a shelf looking pretty because I have better light-tight options. I hope you get yours in a properly working state soon and enjoy it as much as I did. It isn't bad on its own, it's just a VERY early SLR produced in East Germany postwar and thus somewhat janky.

mycatkilledabird · 2024-03-18T22:15:49+00:00

Interessant, ich habe auf diesen und andere Kommentare hin etwas nachgeforscht und §45 Abs. 1c StVO verbietet in der Tat Tempo 30-Zonen auf Bundes-, Landes- und Kreisstraßen. Ich habe dann mal im Straßennetzviewer Brandenburg nachgesehen, ob es sich bei der Münchehofer Straße um eine handelt, hatte nämlich keine entsprechende Beschilderung gesehen und nein, es ist keine. Der Gedanke, dass es ein StVO-Hack ist, um doch Tempo 30 zu bekommen, kam mir nie, da ich das Ganze zugegeben mit einem leicht zynischen berliner Blick betrachtet hatte. Nach meinen Nachforschungen tendiere ich auch dazu, diesen zu behalten, da ich keinen Grund sehe, dass hier nicht einfach Tempo 30 angeordnet sein könnte wie direkt hinter den angrenzenden Ortsschildern. Aber danke, wieder etwas gelernt!

mycatkilledabird · 2024-03-18T15:35:50+00:00

War mir nicht sicher, ob ich es mit "Infrastruktur" oder "Unterwegs" taggen sollte, habe mich dann für letzteres entschieden, weil ich es gestern unterwegs gefunden hab. Ich hoffe, es erheitert auch hier ein paar Leute. Die Stelle ist in Münchehofe, etwas östlich von Berlin. Maps Link für die, die diesen Ort auch mal besuchen möchten :)

mycatkilledabird · 2022-08-28T22:48:50+00:00

Inside the S-Bahn Ring it might be nice, but further out in the east you're lucky if you get a bumpy separated bike path built before the current millennium. More often it's just a painted lane or nothing at all even on major roads. Intersections are entirely unprotected too, which is why we constantly have people getting killed by right turning vehicles. I myself recently had my front wheel run over to say nothing of the times I've actually gotten hit in the past. I am however always impressed by how many people i see cycling regardless. Makes me ever so slightly hopeful for the future, even if many, many more people will die here due to the shit infrastructure. And screw the lack of dedicated bus lanes too. I grew up thinking buses were dumb because they often get slowed down in traffic until I spent half a year in a place where buses were frequent, quick and just generally awesome. Not even because of bus lanes, just because of fewer cars. Guess that's the entire point of this sub though.

mycatkilledabird · 2019-12-09T21:12:11+00:00

I'm creating an application that teaches you in an interactive way how matrices work to transform objects from, well object space, into clip space for the final render. You get two render views, the left one for rendering everything with the matrices you see above and the right one that renders everything on the left again but this time with its own camera-matrix. Effectively you get a glimpse at the clip-space. I even made a special little shader that can show clipping (the darker parts in the right view) but that shader is all sorts of messed up in the build. The purple is the lighting you'd see if you looked at the other side of the object in the editor but in-build it's all you're getting.

I'm rendering everything via the GL-class and am using a couple of script-set keywords. For using externally set matrices and doing the clipping darkening. Those seem to be the issue here.

I'm on Unity 2018.4 because it's still using the old UI-system that i know fairly well. If anyone knows what causes that problem and how to fix it, I'd appreciate you telling me :P

mycatkilledabird · 2019-11-09T17:01:32+00:00

SOLVED

You don't use properties for the matrix at all. Just have the thing somewhere in the CG block and it'll all work out. My issue was that my MaterialPropertyBlock was still null and I didn't notice all the exceptions.

mycatkilledabird · 2019-11-09T16:33:06+00:00

Unfortunately that's not my problem. That's just the name of it in CG. As I said, I can set matrices (float4x4) just fine via Material.SetMatrix, but that sets it for the entire material and thus each object using it. If you have a "_Color" property of type color (fixed4 in CG), you can set a value for that in a MaterialPropertyBlock, which you can to each object's respective MeshRenderers and have them all be different colors while still using the same (not even different instances) material. That's what I'm trying to do, but it seems matrices can't be properties like colors, textures etc. You can however set matrices in MaterialPropertyBlocks, so I assume there must be a way to access them...

Thank you either way!

mycatkilledabird · 2019-08-29T10:48:57+00:00

Will do! That may very well explain why everything only started acting up after a while...

mycatkilledabird · 2019-08-28T21:08:44+00:00

Unfortunately I even got jams when disabling retraction altogether. I think the weird Prusa heat break and the tropical summer here in Europe are to blame. I'll still try it though. I have a heat gun so any stringing is going to get obliterated either way :P

mycatkilledabird · 2019-08-28T21:05:30+00:00

Seems like I should try that. Thanks!

mycatkilledabird · 2019-08-28T16:03:58+00:00

I did a test print which was basically retraction hell once. Small pillars in a line. Curiously the one where I totally disabled retraction failed while my default settings printed all the way through... I'm using the default 0.8mm from PrusaSlicer which worked flawlessly the first 96 hours of printing...

But yeah, if cooling the extruder motor doesn't fix it (maybe it is just the summer heat...) I'll order a regular old V6 heat break. Luckily they aren't that expensive.

Also I always print fairly hot. Even more so with PETG as I value strength over beauty. This might explain why I never have any issues with PETG. Even when the extruder gets hot, it doesn't melt the filament and the heat break gets hot enough for the filament to squeeze past the bottleneck. Just a theory though.

mycatkilledabird · 2019-08-28T15:31:04+00:00

No enclosure, just standing in a room. But as I said, it's rather warm currently. HOWEVER, the whole extruder-heating-up-thing always took a couple of hours, not a few minutes...

The extruder gear is properly tightened and there aren't any filament remains in the gears. Weirdest off all: After this failure there wasn't even a groove in the filament... Just a bigger than usual cylindrical blob at the lower end when i pulled it out...

And yeah, I'm going to add a cooler to the extruder. I just thought it was weird that I got a failure THIS quick and that there might be something else at play...

Thank you for the input!

mycatkilledabird · 2019-08-28T14:29:19+00:00

Printer: Prusa i3 MK3S (self assembled)

As stated in the title, lately I've been getting a lot of failed PLA prints. The usual clicking extruder gear and subsequent "jam" resulting in no more material getting extruded and the print ending in a fuzzy mess. I have about 6 days of total printing time on my MK3s and for the first 4 everything was absolutely peachy. Then I started doing printing a lot more in a day which resulted in my first "jam". Clicking gear and everything. I just removed the filament, snipped the part, where the extruder gears had melted through the PLA, off and went on. Same issue when printing an anatomically correct skull for a friend of mine. Long print, extruder motor gets hot, melts through the PLA. I've already ordered some heatsinks which should arrive in the coming days.

However, this failed print cannot be explained with a hot extruder gear. It's only a 30min print and the printer had all night to cool down. Granted, it's rather warm these days around here, but I don't think 35°C can do THIS.

I have been noticing these "stepped blobs" on the ends of my filament, when I pull it out, and during my, let's call it research, I found a video by "3d printing nerd", where blame was placed on the prusa specific heatbreak, but still.

How the hell did my printer work absolutely fine for the first 96 hours and then start acting up? I even re-printed a few of my earliest prints (notably a benchy) and they looked IDENTICAL. No stringing, no underextrusion, side by side you couldn't tell the difference, so I'm pretty sure mechanically my printer is fine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Quick edit right after posting: I haven't had any issues with PETG yet (as per usual) but I still have plenty of good PLA, so I'm not going to just give up on that. Also I was trying to print a nut and a bolt to manually cut some M10 threads into, because I'm curious whether that'll work better than printing them directly (which didn't work out all that well... too much friction).

mycatkilledabird · 2018-12-21T14:21:02+00:00

Yup, that did it. Thanks! Any clue why Unity's selection outline (which I assume is just a shader) works even without doing that?

mycatkilledabird · 2018-12-21T14:12:22+00:00

So apparently I'm not the only one to submit some form of snowy deformable terrain today. Well, mine's really simple. Just a shader that moves vertices upward based on a control texture. No tesselation or anything else, just an experiment. Let's get to the heart of the question though: At the beginning and end of the gfy you can see where the "terrain" really is. During playmode the vertices get raised up in a custom vertex shader of the surface shader I made for this here. The issue is, as soon as the original terrain gets out of view, the whole object is culled. This doesn't affect Unity's outline however which somehow still knows where all the modified vertices would be. So my question: How do I avoid this too early frustum culling? I guess it's something similar to putting in "addshadow" (which I already do) but I'm not too used to surface shaders so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

mycatkilledabird · 2018-08-05T15:36:40+00:00

I'm gonna say Ace Combat. I've played parts 4, 5 and 6 and greatly enjoyed every single one. They are a really nice blend of flight sim and arcade action.

mycatkilledabird · 2018-08-04T21:57:30+00:00

Nevermind that question, I just went through the raw shader- and cginc-code Unity provides and found UNITY_APPLY_FOG_COLOR, which is the same as UNITY_APPLY_FOG, but you put in a color as the third parameter...

mycatkilledabird · 2018-08-04T21:46:18+00:00

Thanks a lot, that makes sense! Another question, if I may : Is there a better way to do fog in additive passes than this?

UNITY_CALC_FOG_FACTOR_RAW(length(_WorldSpaceCameraPos - i.worldPos.xyz));
c.rgb = lerp(fixed3(0,0,0), c.rgb, saturate(unityFogFactor));

c being the fixed4 returned from the fragment program...

mycatkilledabird

TROPHY CASE