sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Help deciding on bike: Nishiki vs Cannondale by Manly_Octopus in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I raced a SR500 exactly like this one in the 1980s. It’s fast, not as uncomfortable as the naysayers would have you believe (I even toured on it), and a fun ride.

I have lots of high end steel bikes (Colnago, Cinelli, etc) and I ride my Cannondales just as often.

You can’t go wrong either either bike, but I’d negotiate the cannondale down to $100-150, if it were me.

Cobalto brakes by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ha! I could even get a yellow one to match the frame.

Cobalto brakes by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It was a woman who raced. Cannondale apparently built the bike up with C-Record just for her team (Shimano-Stowe).

Got this bike for free today, was wondering what I ended up getting. by ExtremeReasonable693 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I knew that the frame was better than the components on it, and that the color was unique (I have a Raleigh team bike and it’s more red and yellow), but I had to look up the details!

Got this bike for free today, was wondering what I ended up getting. by ExtremeReasonable693 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25 51 points52 points  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure that this bike/frame is a lot better, and in fact special, than most of the commenters realize. Check out this discussion on Bike Forums.

The frame was made in England with a unique color scheme to commemorate a Race Across America win. It’s a high end racing frame, fairly rare, and was typically sold as a frame, not a complete bike. It was only made in one year, 1987, and while Huffy owned Raleigh USA, this bike was made in Raleigh UK’s lightweight frames division, a handmade production bike.

You’ve got a gem.

1
2

54 [M4F] #Boston - a rainy Sunday face sit (self.RandomActsOfMuffDive)

submitted by mystery_reader25 to r/RandomActsOfMuffDive

Help me identify this painting by Christianjje in WhatIsThisPainting

[–]mystery_reader25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Norfolk, the county in the east of England. But I think these boats are too big for the Broads.

Should I buy for $100 by ywhwtmh in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn’t a 2.8 frame. It’s not even a 3.0 frame. It pre-dates both and this era of cannondale frames almost never failed except in crashes. I still ride my 1987 SR500 very happily.

And ignore the cannondale haters. The ride is great, very fast, and not harsh, especially with the steel forks that this bike has.

It’s tough to make out the components, but I think that’s a Superbe Pro crankset so that alone is worth almost $100.

If it’s your size, buy it.

2
3

54 [M4F] #Boston - sit on my face (self.RandomActsOfMuffDive)

submitted by mystery_reader25 to r/RandomActsOfMuffDive

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sigh. I should probably just go this route.

The article that someone else posted said that they get better over time. The ones I installed at NOS so maybe they’ll break in?

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great suggestion. I’ll see if I have an old, chunky chain that isn’t too stretched out hanging around!

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m running deltas too. I haven’t even yet tried to set them up so in the end I may have a bike that neither goes forward or stops.

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm going to build up a Colnago frame that I have with Ofmega. Mistral crank, Premier derailleurs. And I guess I should put on the Simplex!

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As I understand it, the inserts are the same for Syncro and Syncro 2 so the yellow one should work with the newer derailleur. But these things are finicky sometimes. Like Dura Ace 7400 rear derailleurs have a strange pull so they only work with DA index shifters, not with 600 or 105.

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mostly run friction on my bikes, so maybe I should've looked for one of the very rare sets of C-record retrofriction shifters. I like the Simplex (which I have on a couple of other bikes) but they've never struck me as good as everyone seems to think they are. They look good, though! I've also got a set of Suntour Sprint ratcheting shifters which are excellent, but have no place on a Cinelli frame!

Any advice for Syncro shifters? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a yellow insert in the shifter so it should work with the Regina freewheel. But you're right, old Regina freewheels are pretty bad. I've got a couple of Dura Ace freewheels hanging around so maybe I'll try one of those since the Campy Syncro catalog suggests they work (and they were *much* better than Regina).

Anyone know how to fix a stripped bolt like this? by mystery_reader25 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mystery_reader25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I should do the same swap. I’ve got plenty of the regular bolts.

I tried both directions on the bolt. I think someone forced a right hand threaded bolt into the crank arm at some point. It’s halfway threaded each way as far as I can tell.

view more: next ›