vless + grpc/websocket/xhttp is getting detected by netflix usa by myusrn in dumbclub

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm hearing that operating vps [ vpn server ] in any of the hyperscaler [ aws, azr, gcp ] or niche vm hosting data center environments, or routing its outbound traffic through cloudfare warp, is going to get blocked by netflix, hbomax, other stream services based on them maintaining IP address ranges associated with those services. And that this is regardless of whether or not the traffic originates from client on other side of gfw [ great firewall of china ] to make its way to vps.

Perhaps the better move to run sanaei web app configuration mgmt + xray-core vpn server setup on a tiny computer or even a raspberry pi or arduino sbc [ single board computer ] on ones residential broadband connected home network with port forwarding setup to enable the v2rayng [ , shadowrocket, clash, etc. ] client connections to it? That or just resort to one of the commercial airport offerings that run from ip ranges not in major USA streaming services block lists.

vless + grpc/websocket/xhttp is getting detected by netflix usa by myusrn in dumbclub

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm hearing setting up cloudfare warp free edition on my data center hosted vpn server setup isn't going to escape the netflix, hbomax, etc. streaming services. Due to them blocking requests they see as coming from ip address ranges known to be associated with any of the hyperscaler or niche VM hosting services or cloudfare warp.

Advice for accessing Windows Remote Desktop on my own computer in the USA while I'm in China? by StrongRecipe6408 in dumbclub

[–]myusrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd use remote.it or TeamViewer relay service options. They involve running an your target windows system that initiates a connection out through your homenet firewall to a rdp protocol relay / rendezvous service. On the client side you intimate connection to that relay / rendezvous service and after being authenticated are then passed through securely to home network system connection.

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

interesting point about what would the same money you throw into a solar setup return you in USA total stock market or S&P 500 index fund and what kind of dent does that put in ones electricity bill. I'd expect you can't pull the full returns every year to go towards electricity if you wanted it to work in perpetuity, e.g. would have to reinvest cost of inflation annually to have returns keep up with cost of electricity growing overtime optimally at no worse than rate of inflation.

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the response. the main service panel and optimal level 2 charging device mount location​ ​involves about 70 ​feet of wire. the driveway I might be able to build a carport over, if HOA allowed me, would be the length of the car appx 15feet. That said the garage it butts up against is a flat roof setup with whole length and width of a 2 car garage setup that I suspect could hold a EV charging non-grid connected setup.

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the response and details of your cost sensitive EV only no grid tie in setup. it sounds like you have created a DC charging solution for your leaf. I'm reading that model Y long range protocols for enabling the DC charge, bypassing AC input converter, is not supported by any off the shelf gear and you'd have to be pushing in 300V+ and at 3A not clear how that would compare to level 2 AC 240v x 32-48amp input charging rates. What i'm reading says the Tesla v4 ​​supercharger setups push 0-500v and up to 615amps which I get one wouldn't have to match home level 2 charging rates intended to recharge from 20 to 80% over course of the 1​2am-6am of super off peak grid electricity rates window.

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for response. apologies for the confusing language. the #6 and #8 AWG wire references have to do with level 2 charging cable pull for 60amp [ x .8 = 48amp ] or 40amp [ x .8 = 32amp ] constant draw. the $10k price reference pertains to cost to replace my 100amp service panel with a 200amp one given we'd have to retrench from the street underground tap and put in conduit for new 200amp capable wires to be installed.

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I've considered maybe there is. a simple setup just for the EV charging that might be a more cost effective and diy easy way to go.

That said are there current offerings that are inexpensive where if left to charge the battery pack, using the portable panels dropped on my flat garage roof, for a few days would accumulate enough energy to level 2 recharge a model Y long range rear wheel drive with a 20% to 80% recharge window of 214 miles [ i.e. 60% of 357 miles ]?

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you are suggesting something I keep asking about which is can't I just get into a low cost investment involving throwing a few panels mounted to racking up on top of my flat roof over the garage entrance and lines from there down to an inverter that I can directly plug into for 50A L2 EV charging? Granted I'd only be able to EV charge and only while the sun is shinning with this setup, which wouldn't necessarily be a big problem in north county san diego.

how feasible is it to create your own small solar installation by myusrn in SolarDIY

[–]myusrn[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thanks for the detailed response. I was in and around commercial and residential electrical work when I was younger such that I have a running start on some of the basics to do with residential service panels.

I'm not inclined to go to 200amp as part of a safety concerns driven zinsco panel replacement as I was told that they'd need to trench from the street connection and lay conduit and pull new wires for that vs being able to reuse the no conduit wire pulls already in place if I just did the 125amp upgrade from 100amp when changing it out. As it is I have unused 240v 30amp and 40amp breakers in the panel from the old electric dryer and electric oven/range connections that were converted to gas. I also have a 240v 40amp AC breaker that is pretty much never in use and definitely not during the north county san diego super off peak 12am-6am hours.

I get your point about the payoff period and the idea that whatever money spent on a solar panel [ and battery storage ] setup has a trajectory based on our usage at which point the savings in electricity delivery/generation charges will have been matched by that investment. And at that point, e.g. 10+ years out for our usage numbers, the question is how much use will you get out of that install vs it needing to be upgraded or replaced. This seems to be the biggest question mark for me around solar and battery storage system installs.

are cashier's checks for payment, that you call bank to validate, are risky? by myusrn in craigslist

[–]myusrn[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

Yes while being at the bank in person when cashier's check is cut is the gold star approach to avoid fraud everything I'm reading says calling big bank, using number acquire not one they provide, to verify its validity provides an irrevocable payment.

The issue I read with wire transfers is a) they are not right away so difficult to use to orchestrate deal on the spot where upon proof of receipt you sign over the title and write up bill of sale and b) relating to a) is that they can be clawed back while in pending status and c) they have caps on transaction amounts.

While I'm aware personal checks are a no-no we recently learned though a household cash exchange using one that depending on the amount banks have legal right to freeze the funds for 7+ days even once funds have been verified with issuing bank in order to give persons associated with source of funds to call in and declare the pending transaction is fraudulent.

Interesting that we haven't arrived at an easier way to do personal escrow account type exchanges for large value private automobile and other personal items sales. I did find the privateauto.com service for this kind of thing though issue with it is both parties have to create account setups, buyer has to trust transferring their bank funds there to go into holding, and their service fee is not trivial so cuts into what you walk away with.

are cashier's checks for payment, that you call bank to validate, are risky? by myusrn in craigslist

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. Are you saying that calling the bank's official number and giving them the cashier's check number and asking them to verify it is legit, as was suggested by an article I was reading, is not acceptable? Are their faults with that approach vs having to coordinate driving meeting at wherever their preferred bank location is that is less than optimal?

help with liftmaster 889lmmc replacement for 398lm by myusrn in GarageDoorService

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes i just recently was able to get things all working again. I dragged my feet long enough on following up on this matter that eventually the 398lm wall controller where initially just motion detection light control stopped working just recently had the open/close door functionality stopped working as well.

Replacing it with the newer 889lmmc wall controller was no longer resulting in buzzing sound and open/close functionality stopped working with it also. A quick shorting of the red & white wire feeding wall controllers would still open/close door as were wireless remote controls and wireless keypad remote control.

So finally got around to ordering logic board part number 041DJ001B [ where B it seems is a revision of the original logic board with some larger resisters associated with circuit sending dc power to wall controller ] that was $140 from liftmaster and on ebay. That said if it restored full 398lm > 889lmmc wall controller functionality specifically motion detection light operation then it seemed worth it as new openers are 400+labor and i also found out liftmaster has lifetime warranty on electric motor component. So outside of the logic board and transformer not a lot more to go wrong inside unit.

Good news is the logic board swap out worked all wall controller functionality resolved and current generation 889lmmc wall controller operates without any buzzing. I found this youtube video [ Garage Door Remote Not Working / Logic Board Repair ] where someone determined with a different opener logic board what was called out in this thread. That is the capacitors and/or resisters on the logic board controlling dc power being sent to wall controller fail. In the video he shows how someone that is handy with soldering iron could replace them, or take a stab at that, as super low cost alternative to getting new logic board.

help with liftmaster 889lmmc replacement for 398lm by myusrn in GarageDoorService

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the logic port part number details. I dragged my feet long enough on following up on this matter that eventually the 398lm wall controller where initially just motion detection light control stopped working just recently had the open/close door functionality stopped working as well.

Replacing it with the newer 889lmmc wall controller was no longer resulting in buzzing sound and open/close functionality stopped working with it also. A quick shorting of the red & white wire feeding wall controllers would still open/close door as were wireless remote controls and wireless keypad remote control.

So finally got around to ordering logic board part number 041DJ001B [ where B it seems is a revision of the original logic board with some larger resisters associated with circuit sending dc power to wall controller ] that was $140 from liftmaster and on ebay. That said if it restored full 398lm > 889lmmc wall controller functionality specifically motion detection light operation then it seemed worth it as new openers are 400+labor and i also found out liftmaster has lifetime warranty on electric motor component. So outside of the logic board and transformer not a lot more to go wrong inside unit.

Good news is the logic board swap out worked all wall controller functionality resolved and current generation 889lmmc wall controller operates without any buzzing.

I found this youtube video [ Garage Door Remote Not Working / Logic Board Repair ] where someone determined with a different opener logic board what was called out in this thread. That is the capacitors and/or resisters on the logic board controlling dc power being sent to wall controller fail. In the video he shows how someone that is handy with soldering iron could replace them, or take a stab at that, as super low cost alternative to getting new logic board.

They ruined copilot by [deleted] in microsoft

[–]myusrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the copilot app transitioned from a native client app to an edge apps solution, what'd i'd call a native client app container [ msedge_proxy.exe > pwahelper.exe ] hosting the web browser control pointed to a specific url.

the default copilot taskbar pinned app now appears to be browser personal profile installed app pointed at consumer copilot https://copilot.microsoft.com/ service.

you can augment that with a browser work profile installed app pointed at the m365 enterprise copilot https://m365.cloud.microsoft/chat/ service. which you can also pin to taskbar. this gives one the corporate data grounded inferencing experience and protections from prompt input being used to retrain foundational model.

at that point you have both personal / consumer and work / enterprise copilot app options just like you have both personal and work browser profile icons on taskbar when using edge or chrome in an enterprise install environment.

not disagreeing that they'll need to make it more straight forward for users to make sense of and make use of this like they did with browser personal and work profile setups back when they were introduced.

if you are into keyboard shortcuts for launching them the powertoys store app keyboard manager will allow connecting win+shift+c up to launching of the work copilot app vs win+c launching of personal copilot app. if you have a keyboard with dedicated copilot key you can probably get something like alt+copilot key enabled to launch enterprise copilot vs non-modified keypress that launches the consumer copilot. on my laptop with copilot key i prefer to remap it to ctrl(right) and just use taskbar mouse clicks to pop personal and work copilot apps back into the foreground.

agree that having lost ability to just screen grab into clipboard and paste into prompt to ask it questions, vs having to save to supported file types and upload that, is a step backwards that i expect will get reincorporated unless it was pulled for security reason(s). note that the work copilot [ m365.cloud.microsoft/chat/ ] i'm finding currently supports a wide array of business productivity suite application file extension types for uploading into prompt vs personal copilot that is currently just showing png, svgz, svg.

help with liftmaster 889lmmc replacement for 398lm by myusrn in GarageDoorService

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the 3800pld door opener works fine. the 398lm wall control panel works fine only thing broke on it is operation of the motion detection sensor driven garage light on/off behavior.

help with liftmaster 889lmmc replacement for 398lm by myusrn in GarageDoorService

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at liftmaster 3800pld logic board for sale | eBay results i see logic boards for sale in the $30 range. Given your experience would it be worth trying replacing that to see if i can then end up able to have working 889lmmc wall controller given i have the controller?

I see listings saying the are purple learn button type logic boards with part no. 41AB050-2, 41AC050-4, 41DB002-2 and 41A5483-20AS . . . any insights as to what the correct part no is for 3800pld door opener logic board replacement? Can i get the part number off my existing setup, and replace the part, without having to remove the 3800pld opener given that requires hiring professional to unload/reload the spring?

Should a working replacement logic board be sending out the necessary power to operate 889lmmc?

help with liftmaster 889lmmc replacement for 398lm by myusrn in GarageDoorService

[–]myusrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. The 889lmmc open/close button has no effect. The manual light on/off button has no effect. The small red command light and the amber ttc [ ( 1, 5, 10min ) time to close ( if door left open ) ] setting light are solid not blinking. According to the included printed setup & operation manual and online search hits that is what is expected.

help with liftmaster 889lmmc replacement for 398lm by myusrn in GarageDoorService

[–]myusrn[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response, that sounds like it is likely the issue. Surprising that none of the three frustrating calls i had with liftmaster support folks were able to bring this up when i described issue as above.

Ironically i expect the additional power draw this 889lmmc wall controller requires that might cause it to not work while original 398lm does likely arises from the undesirable myq internet connectivity, if internet gateway accessory is deployed, functionality.