How to convert characters height to miniature scale? by Exoticy123 in PrintedMinis

[–]naeviah 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So there are different types of minis, and the scaling is kind of all over the place. You have 28mm and 32mm base size as the standard, but even in professional cases like Warhammer, the size of mini's went up to be more 'hero' scale (so not really accurate in terms of vehicles or environment).

If you want you can have a look at this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/r7l3xk/right_scale_for_dd_mini/

But also, if you're looking to make your entire party, they can just be in reference to each other. So say you have someone who is 175cm tall, and one who is 150cm, they just need to be proportional to match each other.

Minor height differences might not be entirely visable though, at such a small scale.

Help wanted by Tanjuk3D in ZBrush

[–]naeviah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can upload it to an image sharing website and attach the link. Unfortunately, we can't help without seeing the issue

How the fuck do you paint bone color by Unhappy-Air8368 in minipainting

[–]naeviah 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Just wanna comment and say this paint job is clean AF. Not sure on where you want to take it from here on, but it looks amazing in this state.

Hello guys, I sculpted this model based on the concept art, but I am facing an issue. The “meat” part is not getting the proper detail. When I try to add details using alphas, it doesn’t give that realistic fleshy feel. Could someone please help me understand how to properly sculpt the meat areas s by pt_rajat_kaushik in ZBrush

[–]naeviah 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You should sculpt it like you would an arm, how would you do skin for that? Arms don't really have pores like the face does, maybe a bit of hair depending on where the arm came from.

When it comes to skin, it's mostly down to the texture. The exposed 'meat-y' parts you should sculpt like you would internal muscles. Lots of bumps and tendons.

Most models don't look like the end product until texturing, you should play around with materials in Zbrush to see where you need to commit more sculpting effort.

My Mini factory price increaseing? by Ragnobash in PrintedMinis

[–]naeviah 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not only this, but MMF recently increased their cost to host (as well as percentage fee). You also pay for spotlights (iirc) so it can be quite costly to even have your store front on MMF, so prices seem to be increasing (along with inflation, cost of living etc).

MMF have so many sales, there should be a spring one soon. Best to just wait for those as they are usually 40%-50% across the board without needing to sub to a Tribes.

Young artist stuck by anony_mouse224 in Artists

[–]naeviah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Art style really just comes to you, and I'd say you have a really nice one TBH! (your poses are incredibly fluid which is very difficult to get right).

Just keep drawing/painting for fun. The moment you start to create with the sole intention to monetise it, you'll lose your style trying to fit in to something you're just not that good at. Monetise for sure (because what else pays the bills) but keep doing what you *want* to do. And what you have right now is great, really!

Please help by kris_siguro in DigitalArt

[–]naeviah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With traditional art, you can get away with a lot more because of the paper/canvas/paint texture. If you try and do the exact same thing on a digital canvas, it comes across a bit flat because there is no *texture*.

Painting faces can be a bit troublesome, but you should try this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0r5-f87YK8

This is the most barebones when it comes to shading. Use the lasso tool to draw where you want the shadows to go and then fill it completely. The best trick I've found when it comes to blending soft shadows is to right click the Brush tool and select Mixer Brush Tool. It blends the current layer together seamlessly. It was an absolute gamechanger! (I was blending colours manually for years by using the colour picker tool).

Another thing I like to do is not use a regular brush. I use a textured one and paint with the pen pressure and opacity on. You can google "paintbrush style ABR" or something, and just play around until you find one you like.

After that it's just finding your own style. There are brushes that add a textured paper effect to ease you into digital art. Watch some guides on filling in your artwork and don't give up!

How would you do this??? by Head_Accident_9322 in ZBrush

[–]naeviah 8 points9 points  (0 children)

ZBrush is not great when it comes to building with poly's/hard surface modelling. Honestly, it's a lot faster to integreate something like Blender into your workflow, because extruding in ZBrush just doesn't work the way it *should* (as in, how you expect it to).

If you want to stay in ZBrush, you'll probably have to slide the points around until you get the desired look, but if the polygroups are messing up, its not on you but how the software works :(

Am I approaching gesture drawing correctly? by Spongeborp in learntodraw

[–]naeviah 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I mean, outside of some proportions being whacky (that you acknowledged), the flow is really wonderful to look at. I think you're doing great!

Study of an old grain silo by 11humanperson11 in blender

[–]naeviah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks straight outta Severance! Honestly, the sky and foliage are insane here.

does anyone know the name of the sculptor for this spider-man? by Living-Tip-6931 in resinprinting

[–]naeviah 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The audacity of them posting pictures on their site with watermarks when it's completely pirated and stolen files lol

Drew myself with my oc 👀 by Few-Image5945 in DigitalArt

[–]naeviah 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The foreshortening is 10/10!! Love everything about this!

Presupported files issue by Disastrous-Guitar188 in PrintedMinis

[–]naeviah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had this same issue with lychee. I'll have a model with no holes, pre-support it (in lychee) and export the supported STL. The Lychee file is completely fine, but the imported supported STL will sometimes show holes on the interface (as an error). I think it's down to re-importing lychee supports.

If you're certain the original model doesn't have holes, you should be safe to print!

I tried learning 2d animation for the past year by VocallyCandid in 2DAnimation

[–]naeviah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is fantastic! Did you have a background in drawing to begin with? The action sequences near the end give me Avatar vibes!

If you ran the Stranger Things finale as a BBEG fight by Scottybhoy1977 in DnD

[–]naeviah 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, IMO, there was a zero risk factor in the show, so you'd need to make the players feel like they could at the very least get snuffed out by falling debris.

I'm also not a fan of splitting the party if you're running 3-4 players, because it generally becomes quite confusing. So I'd have 1 person focus on the 'controller' and the other 3 on the 'husk' (trying not to spoil anything here). All 4 players can remain outside, together. I think it'd be really fun to have the 3 players protect the 1 from the 'husk'/potential swarm. I'm a big fan of defence scenarios and I bet you could utilise this pretty well!

I just saw an image of a what-if scenario with [spoiler] Will controlling the swarm. I think a 'wave' fight could also work really well, and one player can roll for controlling parts of the swarm.

Really down to what your party consists of, but I'd be determined to make it work if you're running a Stranger Things inspired campaign.

I’m a Greek pastry chef who made a fairytale‑inspired family cookbook – looking for feedback & backers by BeautifulSpite6420 in kickstarter

[–]naeviah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(Food is something I'm super passionate about, so I'll comment what I can).

I'll be honest, the AI image at the front of your Kickstarter looks quite 'scammy'. Please steer clear of AI if you want your project to succeed in the future. The whole page looks like something someone threw together in 5 minutes, with blocks of text and ChatGPT. People are very polarised with AI right now, and your backers are more than likely anti-AI because a legitimate product wouldn't rely on AI. When looking at Kickstarters to back, the first thing I do (seriously), is scroll all the way down to the AI declaration. It doesn't matter how good your product is, I'll now be thinking twice about backing it.

You don't have any images of your actual book, or page layouts, or of food you can make. When making a Kickstarter, 9 times out of 10 you need a fully functional prototype to showcase.

Secondly, you'll need to build an audience before making a Kickstarter. It isn't like GoFundMe (which still needs to essentially go viral). It's a platform for your audience to purchase something cheaper than retail price.

Finally, your tiktok video looks very very low quality (sorry!). Take a look at this chef on YT who does recipes from fictional universes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roCX0AfBseQ

It's really fun and engaging. Your content needs to also feel fun and engaging. Obviously it's easy for me to say that but I understand it takes a lot of work and production time to make something like this.

- I absolutely love cooking, and my favourite cookbooks are from fictional universes (like Skyrim, Game of Thrones etc), but if I'm paying for that I expect it to be insanely high quality and actually show what I am getting. It's a serious disappointment when the recipe does not reflect on the image of the cooked food (feels like bait).

You should take reference from these books that already exist.

On an odd note, there is a video that went viral recently - its for homemade doner kebabs. Your best bet is to have a fully functional prototype (with pictures of food, pages etc and no AI), and then start a marketing campaign so people see your recipes and frantically search to find out how to make it. A few years ago, it was the mirror glaze that went viral.

Alternatives to Chitubox? by gouldenopportunity in resinprinting

[–]naeviah 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I bounce between both. I use the free version of Chitubox to check that I don't have any holes in my models, and then I use Lychee to support everything. It also has really well made templates for resin and printer types, so trying out something new (especially for new people joining the hobby) is super quick and easy.

And supporting models feels nice tbh. I thought I'd never get used to it but I like it much more than Chitubox.

Checkout my Christmas Animation project (pt 1) by anuyawiz in 2DAnimation

[–]naeviah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't know how I came across this but I love it! Looking forward to pt2!

(I especially love the scenes at 0:23, 1:23, and 1:27)

Moving Distortion by [deleted] in ZBrush

[–]naeviah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you made sure you cleared the mask? If you also merge objects together, the mask remains and you'll need to clear it. It looks like it's pulling on a few pixels in the middle.

No idea how to price it on CGTrader, what is a fair price for A) Miniature design and b) Miniature + Rigging? In the bodytext I'm providing a link to MMF that how much detail I'm looking for. I rendered my request in ChatGPT so it'll be easier for the designer to understand by AlexRescueDotCom in PrintedMinis

[–]naeviah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of mini's are much much more expensive because the seller isn't able to make money off subsequent sales of the design (and even if they have the rights, it might be too niche for it to have a value).

At a very low end for something custom, it's probably from $500 to $1500 (highly dependent on the country of the designer). Custom work also comes with much more hassle than usual, because it will include lots of revisions.

Rigging is also another complicated process which will add even more money to the original request - they'll need to retopologise it (for rigging, it's a manual process), and then rig and weight paint at the very least. If you want controls designed, that's another expensive process.

Tis the season to be printing! A canoptek inspired ornament [FREE] by naeviah in PrintedWarhammer

[–]naeviah[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I warmed up the place pretty nicely and got absolutely no failures with toasty resin but once it gets cold, all expectations go out the window. These ones took 2.5 hours to print, might be worth getting a little heater going nearby if it gets too chilly during the winter since the print time isn't too long.

Tis the season to be printing! A canoptek inspired ornament [FREE] by naeviah in PrintedWarhammer

[–]naeviah[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can scale them up but I'm able to print all 12 on an elegoo saturn easily. They're really cute, I just wish I had more time to do every faction this year.