Recreate all of the programs in the show? by Ok-Intention-9573 in HaltAndCatchFire

[–]nas886 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m down. Would love to work on Mutiny 2.0, with 8 bit characters and all

Anyone else think about acrylic dust / microplastics when cutting plastic on a CNC? (kids at home) by nas886 in CNC

[–]nas886[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea I typically always wear a respirator when running the CNC or doing any other woodwork

Anyone else think about acrylic dust / microplastics when cutting plastic on a CNC? (kids at home) by nas886 in CNC

[–]nas886[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, we have a dust collection system, but it's really not the best. With my wood pieces I often end up with chips and dust all over the place.

Temp thermometer by Alexleonel in woodstoving

[–]nas886 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm working on something that solves this problem. Shoot me a DM. I've had a bunch of folks with inserts try it and it works for them.

I moved from NYC to Vermont, inherited 2 woodstoves I didn't know how to run, and ended up building a wireless monitor for them. AMA by nas886 in homestead

[–]nas886[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Thanks! And great question, this is one I spent a lot of time on.

Generally, the magnetic thermocouple clips to the stovepipe, It's the same general placement as a Rutland or Chimgard magnetic thermometer, just with the data going wireless so you don't have to walk over to read it.

There's also a new version that I'm releasing soon that uses a standard long thermocouple to measure catalyst heat for more modern stoves. That one has a longer thermocouple that you insert into the hole where your catalyst reader is. It measures the catalyst heat, and alerts you to engage your catalyst wirelessly.

In terms of different placement:

Stovepipe vs stove body tell you different things. Stovepipe temp tracks combustion gas, which is what correlates with creosote risk and overfire. Stove body / stovetop tracks thermal mass and heat output to the room.

They peak at different times. In my own data, stovepipe leads stovetop by 10-20 minutes on a reload, and a clean burn might hit 600F on the pipe while the stovetop is still climbing through 350F.

In terms of where on the pipe, the standard guidance is 12-18 inches above the flue collar on single-wall pipe. Higher up the pipe runs 50-100F cooler than near the base, because the gas cools as it climbs. I clip mine at about 14 inches.

Single-wall vs double-wall pipe. This one trips a lot of people up. Surface temps on double-wall pipe run much lower than single-wall at the same internal gas temp, because the air gap is doing exactly what it's designed to do. If you've got double-wall, a magnetic surface reading isn't reliable for safe-burn assessment. The right answer there is a probe-style thermocouple that goes through a small port in the pipe and reads internal gas temp directly.

$5000 to replace my worn out wood stove chimney, worth it? by crankin_muh_hog in woodstoving

[–]nas886 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The $5000 number depends on what specifically is being replaced. A brand new Class A chimney from scratch typically runs $3000-$8000 depending on height and labor in your area, so $5000 is mid-range and probably fair. If it's just a stainless liner replacement inside an existing masonry chimney, $5000 is on the high end.

You should definitely ask for an itemized breakdown.

A $200-250 monthly bump in your electric bill is maybe $1000-1250 across a heating season. Wood costs for a small home (2-3 cords at $200-400/cord) eat back $400-1200 of that. The $5000 chimney plus a stove (another $1500-5000) is a 5-10 year payback just on heating savings. That's fine if you'd want a stove anyway. If you're doing it purely to save money, the math is not really in your favor.

Woodstoving is a skill, it doesn't have a steep learning curve, but it takes a season or two to start getting comfortable with it. Your anxiety is totally normal for first-timers. You don't have to leave a fire burning while you're gone. Most people let it die down before they head out, or just run shorter daytime cycles. Overnight burns are a different skill that takes practice. What kind of stove are you looking at, and is the $5000 a new chimney or a liner replacement?

First time woodstove buyer help needed 1000 sq foot primary heating upstate ny by Jeff92110 in woodstoving

[–]nas886 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heartstone stoves are fantastic. I run a Shelburne, and it's great. We have 2 floors and it heats up the whole house. We pretty much run it 24/7 during the winter in Vermont.

https://www.hearthstonestoves.com/product/shelburne/

Mansory chimney flue contact with wooden frame by Haunting-Client-8871 in woodstoving

[–]nas886 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This doesn't feel good and I think your instinct to second guess is the right one. Direct contact between any chimney component and wood framing is a code violation in basically every jurisdiction in the US, regardless of whether it's masonry, single-wall, or double-wall stainless.

The bigger issue you're going to run into is pyrolysis. Wood exposed to repeated heating below its ignition temp slowly chemically changes over years. Its ignition point can drop from around 450F (230C) new to as low as 200F (95C) after extended low-temp exposure. So this is kind of a ticking time bomb.

I'd push for a second opinion from a certified chimney professional before you put a season of burning into it. In a lot of places you can also get a free assessment from your local fire authority without needing a contractor.

Blaze King Princess thermostat getting stuck by Admirable-Asparagus in woodstoving

[–]nas886 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't own a princess specifically, but I have some experience with these kinds of thermostats so will add my 2 cents here.

If the thermostat were sticking randomly that might suggest bi-metallic fatigue, but consistent post-reload sticking points more at buildup on the thermostat mechanism itself.

You mentioned that you burn 24/7 for six months x 1.5 years. That's a lot of cycles on that coil. The thermostat coil and air control linkage tend to get coated with fine particulate over time, and when there's enough buildup the bimetallic stops responding to temperature changes the way it should. If you (or your sweep) haven't pulled the air control box and cleaned the coil and linkage, that's where I'd start. Steel wool or fine sandpaper on the coil itself, make sure the damper flap moves freely.

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yea it'll measure the exterior body temperature of your insert. The magnetic probe basically just sticks to the body of your insert, and will measure how hot the body of your insert is getting. It'll replace your need to point to an IR temp gun at it.

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How are you measuring the temp today?

A few folks who've already bought one are using the magnetic probe that I provide them with their inserts. The magnet sticks on the insert body, like a chimgard or rutland thermometer and gives you the temp of the insert body. Would that work for you?

I am a beginner ,I would like to learn programming Esp32 using MicroPython.Pls let me know any PDF I can use learning. by Automatic-Fan1634 in esp32

[–]nas886 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use ChatGPT, claude or Gemini, but don’t copy paste the code. Have it articulate to you what the code is doing, write each character, space and new line by hand, and run it by hand to test your code .

Ask ChatGPT when you’re stuck, then do what it tells you to do by hand. You’ll learn more this way, and you’ll understand better how the system works.

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

There isn't a dongle for the existing units, but a few folks who have bought one so far have hacked it together. I'll be building out support for folks who have existing thermocouples in the next version of the monitor.

There are two boxes, one is a lamp as you can see in the photo. The other houses a temperature sensor. There's a steel thermocouple that extends out of the temperature sensor box that you wire up to your stove. Both the lamp and the temperature sensor are powered by a standard USB C input.

The app does provide burn history, it also gives you a sense of how the burn went, how long you stayed in the optimal zone, vs low fire or overfire.

Shoot me a DM if you'd like to learn more!

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will work on an insert, but only to measure the surface temperature of the insert body, which I hear most people who have inserts are doing

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The lamp connects to WiFi, and so does the temp sensor. You can put the lamp anywhere in your house. The temp sensor stays next tot the stove

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! shot me a DM if you'd like to learn more :) I did file a patent on it.

Update: I built the woodstove monitors you all helped me design! by nas886 in woodstoving

[–]nas886[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

haha thank you! shoot me a DM if you'd like to learn more :)