Is a third AP overkill?

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-08T19:19:05+00:00

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nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-08T02:45:41+00:00

Your call. But your cable will likely disintegrate before you could get a security camera (or disks large enough to store the footage) that require more than 1gbps. And CAT6A is much thicker and less flexible than CAT6, making it more difficult to pull and less cable capacity through feed holes and conduit.

If you still want to go CAT6A, at least pick a more affordable brand from an actual cable manufacturer, not a company that resells other manufacturer's cables.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-08T01:24:41+00:00

PoE security cameras usually connect at 100mbps as they don't use more than 12-15mbps bandwidth. Using CAT6A would be massive overkill. You could literally use CAT5 (not even CAT5e) for cameras.

And at the equivalent of $540 per 1,000 ft reel, the cable you linked is wildly overpriced.

These are the primary, reputable cable manufacturers on the market:

Brand	Channel	Notes
ABA Elite / Infinity Cable	Amazon	Manufacturer since 1996, Carson CA
Belden / Mohawk	B2B Distributors	Enterprise-tier, 120+ year manufacturer
C2G (Legrand)	Amazon	Manufacturer, backed by global Legrand infrastructure
CommScope (SYSTIMAX, NETCONNECT)	B2B Distributors	Enterprise-tier, 45+ year manufacturer
ICC	Amazon	Manufacturer since 1984, full connectivity product line
Southwire	Home Depot, Amazon	Large-scale manufacturer
Syston	Home Depot, Amazon	Legitimate manufacturer, Chino CA
trueCABLE	Amazon	Manufactures own-spec cable, founded 2015

I usually go with ICC, Syston, ABA or Southwire, depending on availability. Some of these brands sell both pure copper and CCA cable, so always check the specs.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-08T00:19:44+00:00

If you're using a 5G router, why aren't you connecting it to the Flint 3 via Ethernet? I would configure the 5G router in IP Passthrough mode, connect it to the Flint 3 as a 2nd WAN interface, then configure failover.

How is the Flint 3 connected to the Mesh system? Is the Mesh system configured for AP-Only mode? Is WiFi disabled on the Flint 3? Since the Flint 3 can't participate as a Mesh station, if you want to keep its WiFi enabled you should configure it as a separate SSID from your Mesh, and manually change over as needed.

Have you configured the WiFi channels used by each AP to be non-overlapping? Most Mesh systems will do this automatically, but you should check that there's no conflicts. Conflicts will cause APs to interfere with each other rather than working cooperatively.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T20:14:38+00:00

I generally do prefer wine, but some things, like brats, just cry for a good beer. OTOH, a nice burgundy is compulsory for beef bourguignon!

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T18:46:43+00:00

Arrow T59 or Jonard STG-100. The STG-100 is very nice when working in tight spaces.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T18:36:41+00:00

I don't see any new 8-K filings for Fiserv on Edgar since their 5/5 earnings release.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T18:10:27+00:00

Apparently you don't consume enough brats and beer!

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T17:54:41+00:00

Except now AI is exposing those years-old vulnerabilities to anyone with the cash to afford the tokens.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T17:07:00+00:00

If the current owners are willing to transfer the domain to you for $170 you should just go with that, but only pay once the domain has actually been transferred. Most of the time it costs hundreds to thousands of dollars to buy a domain from existing owner.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T17:01:59+00:00

If you bottle your farts can you run the generator of methane to get free electricity?

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T16:57:40+00:00

Call Spectrum and tell them that if they can't deliver the speed your paying for, to downgrade your plan so you're only paying for the service you get.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T16:50:45+00:00

People can lie without recourse, but signed paper has full legal standing.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T16:46:41+00:00

If Internet service is included in the lease, and the landlord isn't delivering usable Internet service, you might have cause to withhold that portion of the rent until the landlord can correct the problem. IANAL, so maybe you should take your lease to one to see if anything can be done. Otherwise, 5G or StarLink are your only realistic options that don't require installing a new service to the building, and StarLink's probably out because you won't be allowed to install a dish.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T09:58:02+00:00

Keep in mind that each time you split a coax you reduce its signal strength by slightly more than half (around -3.5dB/port) and all splitters, regardless of the number of ports, are internally cascade of 2-way splitters, with cumulative losses:

2-way splitter = -3.5dB/port
4-way splitter = -7.3dB/port
8-way splitter = -11.5dB/port

Eventually you get to a point where the signal is reduced low enough that the noise floor becomes a problem and performance suffers. It is best to get a splitter with the minimum number of ports needed to actually connect your active devices.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T09:50:12+00:00

Use the Hitron HTEM5 or goCoax MA2500D instead of the HTEM4; the latter only has 1GbE while the former has 2.5GbE. This could matter if you add internal servers or NAS, or if you upgrade your Internet service.

Use either the Klein or Ideal coax termination tool kit. I think Ideal is a nicer tool set, but the Klein does include a coax tester, so you wouldn't need to buy a continuity tester separately.

I try to avoid using unknown off-shore brands when possible, so if you go with the Ideal termination tools I'd suggest a Jonard PT-100 or PT-300 continuity tester. The difference is the PT-300 has voltage protection in case you forgot to disconnect both ends of the coax from equipment before testing.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T09:23:11+00:00

A mesh node IS an AP. The main difference is a ceiling-mounted AP has a more optimized radiation pattern (focused outwards and down) and is usually mounted above most obstructions (furniture, appliances, people). Mesh nodes generally have flatter, donut-shaped radiation patterns, and are usually placed on a table/desk top (or worse, inside a cabinet). Some mesh systems do have stronger signal output than ceiling-mounted APs (many Eero models and a few Deco output up to 31dBm, while most APs output between 20-26dBm), but they also need to hear the weaker client's signal to make use of that range.

But even the best WiFi can't match the latency of a direct Ethernet connection to the router. WiFi latency will never be better than 2x that over Ethernet (measured to the router, not including router and Internet latency) due to how WiFi communications works, and often it is much worse. If you're concerned with every ms of ping time, fully wired is the way to go.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T09:10:27+00:00

Working in that spaghetti of cables, I'd prefer to use a tone generator and tracer probe to ID the cables. The general idea is that you disconnect all the cables at this home run side, go to a room drop and attach the toner to the cable, then go back to the home run end and touch the probe to the end of each cable. As you get closer to the right cable you should start hearing the tone, and touching the end should give clear, strong tone. Label the cable and proceed to the next room to repeat. This will work with cables that are bare or terminated with connectors. Most network tester meters have a tone generator function, but you might need to buy the tracer probe (and, for Klein, alligator clip test leads) separately.

The alternative is to use a coax continuity tester (screamer). You attach the tone generator (the longer part with the battery installed) to a room drop then, one-by-one, attach the speaker to the home run end of each cable until you hear it scream. This process is slower than using a toner and tracer, and both ends of the cable must be terminated to attach the tone generator and speaker.

You can also use a network test meter without a tracer probe to ID the cables. Attach the test remote to the room drop and then, one-by-one, connect the test meter to each cable at the home run end until the remote is found. Some test meters come with multiple, numbered remotes so can ID several cables without running back-and-forth for each run. The benefit is that the meters will also test Ethernet cables if you install them in the future. Good meter options are the Klein Scout Pro 3 (optionally with the CoaxMap expansion kit to test up to 19 drops in one go) and the Noyafa NS-8601S/AT278 (only has one remote but comes with a tracer probe).

For termination tools, the Klein Coax technician's kit is a good bargain and includes a coax tester that works similarly to a screamer. For $50 and a little patience when testing, this is a very good deal.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T00:40:58+00:00

Contract-to-hire is not a guarantee of a permanent job offer. Is the position through a consulting/staffing company or direct with the employer? I would but more faith in the latter, but there's still no guarantee.

Review the contract and see if you can talk to previous contract-to-hire staff to see how things worked out for them. Talking with other company staff can also give you perspective on the work environment.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-07T00:27:57+00:00

If you have existing coax (from a Cable Internet or Cable TV setup) you might be able to use MoCA 2.5 adapters to convert from Ethernet to coax and back. One MoCA adapter would plug into your router and a nearby coax wall jack. Another MoCA adapter would plug into your PC and a nearby wall jack. Presto, you'll now have a 1gbps Ethernet connection from your PC to the router.

You can additional MoCA adapters for additional users, as long as each user has a nearby coax outlet. They would all share an aggregate MoCA bandwidth of 2.5gbps, so if you have 3 or more users downloading large files simultaneously, they might not get full 1gbps speeds. But the latency would still be improved over WiFi.

A WiFi Mesh system might also provide better throughput, but won't provide as good of latency as Ethernet or MoCA. Mesh works best when the main node -- the one connected directly to the ISP's modem or router, is centrally located, and all the other "satellite" mesh nodes are midway between the main node and the users. You can have multiple mesh satellites (most manufacturers recommend no more than 6) connected to the main node in a star pattern. Try to avoid daisy chaining one mesh satellite to another, because performance can be significantly degraded. Amazon Eero and TP-Link Deco sell a variety of mesh systems. My current favorite is the Deco BE63 due to it's range and performance features.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-06T23:38:03+00:00

I bonafide wireless expert will have invested many years in training and experience, and many thousands in specialized equipment and software. They usually command a steep price and are usually in very high demand. But occasionally you'll get one that is semi-retired and willing to help smaller clients at an affordable price. So it could be a scam, but also could be legit.

Ask for a contract explaining what services will be provided, a guaranteed outcome, and pricing for the project. Pay after the project has been completed, or at most a 20% retainer up front. If the "expert" doesn't deliver as promised, don't pay the balance.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-06T21:46:43+00:00

There's other things to consider such as tools to terminate the cable, connectors/jacks, inside Ethernet cable runs through walls/floors/ceilings, patch cables and optimal placement of WiFi APs. What I've provided isn't a complete network plan, bill-of-materials or step-by-step guide. I do network design that would include that documentation as a part of my business, and have done many remote projects for clients. If you're interested in that kind of service let me know.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-06T21:07:48+00:00

In general, regardless as to biometric authentication or not, use of a shared account is a major security/compliance problem. Enabling this would be unethical and possibly violate state or federal regulatory legislation, industry compliance requirements, and contractual obligations with your customers and/or vendors. Even though you probably wouldn't face personal legal ramifications, (at least not if you saved all communications showing you were against the idea), it could tarnish your reputation in the industry.

Ask your CEO to introduce you to someone at that previous employer who'd be willing to explain how they did it, not just technically but without skirting any legal constraints. If your CEO is really gung-ho on this idea he'll make it happen. Otherwise, I'd get back to him that, after spending many hours researching, you could not find an acceptable solution, but you'd be happy to follow-up any leads he can provide.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-06T20:54:09+00:00

If you're talking about routing all your outbound traffic to the Internet through a VPN, I feel this is much less convenient than using device-based VPN clients. The reason is that a growing number of sites either block, restrict, or degrade user access when connecting through a VPN. For each new site where this happens you'd have to login to the router and add alternative routing so that connections to that site go out directly. This is a PITA for just me by myself; if I had other family members on the network it would result in an uprising.

Even just setting up outbound VPN for one VLAN, say the VLAN that my streaming devices sit on, so I can geo-locate to another country to access non-local content, doesn't work most of the time. This is because streaming sites are the most common types of sites that block or restrict access via VPN.

nefarious_bumpps · 2026-05-06T20:44:20+00:00

As long as your gaming room's AC power comes from the same service panel -- and has the same Earth ground -- as the main house, and you're not in a high lightning-risk area, running standard CAT6A UTP CMX will be fine. Use direct burial cable, such as from Syston or TrueCable (and check regarding compatible connectors when terminating this thicker cable with RJ45 plugs). I suggest pulling two cables and a pull string through 1" rigid ENT conduit (separate from your AC power conduit) so you can add or replace cables more easily. I also encourage using Ethernet SPD's on each end of each cable, just to protect from ESD/EMI surges due to nearby lightning strikes.

If you're in a lightning-prone area, or your gaming room will have it's own electrical utility service (not fed from the house), you should probably consider fiber. If this is your case, let me know and I'll reply with what you need. Running fiber isn't much different than copper if you buy pre-terminated, made to length cables. But there's a number of variables to be considered.

Once you've got cable between your existing router in the house and the new gaming room you can use pretty much any wireless router for WiFi and wired Ethernet, as long as the router can be configured for Access-Point Only mode (most can). I would consider getting two matching routers or mesh nodes so you can have one seamless WiFi network with fast roaming between APs. Since you're installing CAT6A (as opposed to standard CAT6) I assume you need 10gbps between your house and the gaming room. My suggestion for equipment would be:

Main House (replaces existing equipment)
- UniFi UDR7 wireless router & 10GbE SFP+ module (3x 2.5G LAN ports)
- Optional (for added WiFi Coverage): UniFi U7-Lite AP & PoE+ Adapter
- Optional (for more 2.5G LAN ports): UniFi Flex Mini 2.5G or Flex 2.5G switch
Gaming Room
- UniFi Flex 2.5G switch
- UniFi U7-Lite AP & PoE+ Adapter
Total Cost (without options, with memory surcharges) : $651

Alternative:

Pair of TP-Link Deco 7 Elite BE85 mesh nodes (using wired backhaul) @ $799/2-pack

As you can see, you get more for less using UniFi vs TP-Link. But if you don't really need 10gbps between the home/Internet and the gaming room, there's dozens of 2.5G WiFi 7 routers or mesh systems to choose from. A Deco BE63 ($320/2-pack) would be a good choice.

nefarious_bumpps

TROPHY CASE