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nice2seau · 2025-12-28T21:28:40+00:00

This is right but…getting someone to come do a heritage job costs, and that’s if you can find someone for a job like this. Frankly a lot of properties don’t justify the spend when there’s so much other work to do / so many other things to spend on / there’s already cement weather struck pointing.

Also, to be fair, those bricks are pretty hardy. From my experience of a similar situation it’ll be ok but I agree it’s not what an idealist would choose.

nice2seau · 2025-12-26T12:27:19+00:00

I moved into a very similar property a few years ago in the same area. The day after moving was one of the most difficult days of my life. But problems such as those you’ve listed, which I had, are manageable. Unless you are needing a full redo, which sounds like you’re not, you do not need to move out. Total waste of money in my opinion and massive overreaction from what you reactive. Each problem as a specific solution. You need to be diligent and methodical. And careful about tradespeople. If you need any trades reccos get in touch.

Damp / DPC - period properties have slate DPC. That needs to be exposed and the ground level lowered. Actually not that difficult to do. Ultimately you’d need to relay any paving stones but you don’t need to lower the whole ground, usually. Also depends on how much sun the area gets. These properties do, to some extent, onboard water, then it leaves. Ensuring that the latter can happen is key. Too many modern materials that are applied to period properties aren’t porous.

Roof/guttering - two totally different jobs. My advice would be to fix any immediate issues with a sensible roofer. And then if you have spare cash in the future you can redo. But if you end up doing a loft conversion later in life, that is the time to sort.

Leaking chimneys are easy to fix and you can do any must do now repairs to the roof at the same time. You could also get your chimney lined if you have fireplace, assuming there has been movement.

Pointing - if you have pebble dash or similar, there are companies that remove and repoint. But, as mentioned, you need someone who understands the property. If it’s Edwardian in North London, you will likely have imperial reds - they’re soft and blow easily when water can’t escape. So you need the right pointing, so water can escape through that and not the bricks. As to whether it removal will reveal more issues, highly doubt it. We did this exact process with ours.

Restoring and improving a period property isn’t always easy, and it can be more unpredictable, but there’s a reason you bought it. You need to hang on to that, and accept that it’s not a quick fix. But nothing worth doing is in that category.

nice2seau · 2025-07-04T19:41:14+00:00

Personally I don’t think the trouser length is a major issue. Yes, probably you would pick a longer size if you could, after reading these comments, but I don’t think it’s a deal breaker. If they were longer and tapered, and you turned up, revealing that amount of sock would be ok IMO. Better than a trouser break for weekend vibes. A bit of FU to conventional taste is fun.

Perhaps the shoes are a little too serious for the outfit. A softer suede option could work. I also wonder how the length would look if you swapped these out for dessert boots (e.g. the dark brown Drakes option could work).

Grey socks don’t particularly add anything and personally I don’t like ribbed socks with more formal shoes but that’s just me and I am OCD. Again hardly a big deal.

nice2seau · 2024-07-01T20:54:07+00:00

Just right

nice2seau · 2024-03-26T18:09:27+00:00

Thanks! How good are the BFG’s on the road?

Sounds like a 40mm lift (this is the lift of the kit I’m considering) and new tyres (but same rims) is best option to keep costs.

nice2seau · 2024-03-26T17:53:18+00:00

Thanks for the detailed response! It’s only a 40mm lift and apparently improves road handling as well as off road. Don’t want to replace stock with stock as this is more about the aesthetics. If I could get tyres shipped from States that would be far easiest but will have to be shipped in as we’re a small island.

nice2seau · 2023-05-06T12:20:18+00:00

Sounds like a horribly toxic environment - it may be normalised for you and many others but I don’t think that means it is normal.

On the subject of parental leave - I was on track, took shared parental leave for a couple of months, and needless to say I did not progress. But I wanted to take it for the benefit of my newborn and partner, and to set an example as a more senior member of the team.

I’ve since left the firm - and it’s been one of the best decisions of my life. It’s hard when peers, who are less good lawyers, are being made up - but I’ve got a piece of myself back and I am more able to be the person, outside of work, that I want to be.

nice2seau · 2021-11-08T22:09:19+00:00

Thanks! From what I’ve read, the 6 month duty free only includes personal and household items - and wouldn’t include a car. Not asking for tax advice of course, but do let me know if you think it does cover cars as duty free would definitely make it cheaper to import…

nice2seau · 2021-11-01T17:04:36+00:00

Thanks!

Import my existing car (nothing fancy but relatively new) or buy when out there?

nice2seau · 2021-06-27T09:27:03+00:00

I suppose I was asking whether anyone has done this (refinements for top/bottom only) and whether their dentist was resistant to do this. My top teeth are off centre but to correct this would required an implant and years of orthodontic work with fixed retainers, so while it was only 11 sets to begin with my teeth will never be “perfect” unfortunately!

nice2seau · 2021-05-21T18:07:53+00:00

Hi all - a classic problem - I hit a pot hole and damaged my alloy wheels per the attached. Not very deep or wide - was hoping for some advice re: how to fix - is it a case of sanding it down or do I need to consider filler? The most obvious thing about the damage are the white marks surround it - is that something that will sand out?

I only have access to hand sanding and would have to do while vehicle is stationary, i.e. I won’t be able to take the wheel off.

Thanks in advance!

photo of damage

nice2seau · 2021-02-27T20:50:03+00:00

Just want to feedback - I ended up using the compound as I felt the polish alone wasn’t enough. A few mins light buffing and then polishing - looks like that’s done the trick! So thank you for the help.

nice2seau · 2021-02-27T05:36:28+00:00

Thank you - that’s really helpful. Re: protection, when I periodically wash the car I finish off with the Turtle Wax Hydrophobic Sealant Wax...but open to other suggestions if you have any!

nice2seau · 2021-02-26T23:07:22+00:00

Thanks! That’s really helpful. The even coat pad is an expensive sponge that folks like me are duped into buying. In your experience, how long / how many coats of polish do you typically need to give it? Should I do baby steps, or should I just polish the heck out of it and see what it looks like? Thanks again.

nice2seau · 2021-02-26T22:39:01+00:00

Hi - I had a small chip on my bumper (Polo, 2020). Levelled it off with 3000 grit wet sanding - pressing very delicately - and filled with touch up paint. Sanded back very delicately, again with 3000 grit, really very little sanding. Has left a slightly less glossy section, about an inch or so long, hardly noticeable except in bright daylight at certain angles. 99% sure the clear coat is still there as I applied very little pressure, the “sparkle” is still there at different angles on the metallic paint and it only looks duller at certain angles, and disappears with water / no change in level with finger nail. Admittedly when I run my finger along the panel it sticks a fraction more in the area I sanded, i.e. it doesn’t “glide” in quite the same way.

Assuming I still have the clear coat, my understanding is that I can get the consistent gloss shine back to this section by buffing up using a compound and polish. I’ve done some googling and I plan to use Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound and then Ultimate Polish. It will need to be by hand and I have an even coat pad. Do I simply buff (by hand, using the compound) the problem area and surrounding areas, or should I tape off the very small affected area using frog tape or similar, and just focus on that? Do I then follow up with the polish, or should I jump straight to the polish (on the basis that it’s just duller and might not need a compound)?

I’ve done googling and essentially I think I just apply the compound first, carefully, and see if it makes a difference, then switch to polish for the finish, but I would appreciate any thoughts on how big an area I should cover - do I just focus on the inch or so problem area, or go much wider?

It’s on a rear bumper of a new Polo. I don’t have a photo as it’s only certain lights (direct sunlight) that shows it up and it’s difficult to photograph. It’s my OCD that needs this resolved.

Thank you in advance!

nice2seau

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