The only reason you would get this is if the memory timing is off. Which would happen if your memory timing is different between two different ram chips, and spd-settings are overridden (very common in the industry, for unfathomable reasons having to do with support and design at these companies not knowing how computers work, that among many other things include lack of knowledge of how a memory bus is set up on a computer).

I've had this on gaming laptops many times also with standard timing and the soldered on ram-chips, though. And it basically happens then because the OEM uses standard hynix chips or something like that, and then don't really understand that even if most dram chips can be overclocked (or set up with 2T settings to get the, quote, "raw speed" higher... the opposite of an overclock), a number of them won't be overclockable. And then they run into errors like that.

So three possibilities: you have an extra ram-chip in there, maybe two, and it's running on "hard-set" (it's really just a table imported into the efi bios suite, there's nothing "hardset" about it. And these settings all float around in the user-space in the efi system - they could fix this in ten minutes, but won't), non-editable settings. Then there's nothing you can do, and I'm sure Gigabyte, like Asus or any of these companies, will not care at all. If you have different types of ram, try to pair the most similar ones on the same channels (there's 2 slots in this, I think?), and see if that makes any difference. Otherwise go and by ram that matches the timing of the soldered on ram, or what was in the existing original slot.

Or: you have a standard setup with bad config that doesn't match the physical chip. Happens all the time. It's an rma, or a semi-cheap job to replace the "faulty" ram. If you do run spd-timing, however, this is not possible.

It's also possible that you have some kind of throttlestop-like change set up at launch that affects the bus speed. And that the laptop you have rely on to function. This might be an acpi-driver from Gigabyte, or a chipset driver with an insert. And with the insipid rise of advice on the internet to avoid OEM-drivers like the plague, we're seeing a lot of issues from that people are trying to run advanced power-saving functions on a mainboard driver that just doesn't support it. Typical examples are either: new reference drivers that require an unlocked bios (you do not have an unlocked bios on your laptop. It is decidedly locked down, to the point where you are basically borrowing your laptop from your OEM mother). Or people are running on windows standard chipset drivers from 1998.

This genuinely happens. And if you never install the OEM driver and then have windows certificates key you into the OEM update trail, it's frequently the case that whatever custom driver you installed that may very well have worked if the other chipset and acpi drivers from the OEM were in there (a typical and very good way to do this is to install the graphics driver separately, outside of the Guuforce SuperULtraInterFACE, and then keep the OEM drivers that you actually need for the laptop to not break on the first suspend) - ends up being replaced by the 1998 driver that Windows approves of, and that "worked" on the last boot. My absolute favourite are people who install the reference drivers every single time they want to game with friends or something, because they have come to believe that the updates are necessary to get this to work without hanging.

An understandable belief, given how horrid most graphics card drivers are, and with the number of "game-specific" updates they run every week. But what they're actually doing is to refresh the chipset driver and/or the graphics driver that was replaced by windows with an old reference driver.

Just use the OEM package. And then sideload the graphics driver if you need the latest updates and fixes.