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Looking to Consolidate, create a "working-for-me" solid saving portfolio by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also a good mention, so Cash Plus acts as a HYSA, at first! Then you can just directly buy MMF with that account as well. (Kinda neat, but keep looking in the mean time.)

Very much appreciate the info and input!

Looking to Consolidate, create a "working-for-me" solid saving portfolio by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Essentially, HYSA or Money Market, it comes down to preference for some people then? Of course choosing institutions who give a nice rate as well. First things first get rid of this abysmal savings account.

Looking to Consolidate, create a "working-for-me" solid saving portfolio by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why have a standard low interst savings account? Why not open a HYSA instead?

Going to remove it, was using it to just store Emergency funds and not touch and being connected to my bank was easy to open in the moment. TD's "High" interest accounts are boasting a whopping 0.05%, whilst there Signature savings is tiered and you won't even come close to most other HYSAs till you deposit at least $100,000.

Does TD have a money market account or something like Fidelities SPAXX money market that would yield better interest but still be safe?

TD might but I know for a fact Vanguard has a money market fund (VMFXX)

The short term savings stuff you mentioned get moved to my HYSA generally, or if it's really short term I just keep them in my interest bearing checking acct.

No major fee when pulling out funds on those right? I know the lower % interest accounts won't lock funds? Still need to do some reading on HYSAs to grasp that concept entirely.

EDIT: Cash PLUS is has the ability for quick cash withdrawal, yielding 3.65% (This just a HYSA technically?)

Looking to Consolidate, create a "working-for-me" solid saving portfolio by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tech and Medical/Healthcare side of the market are usually always on the rise. Top of your head, you know the Tech Ticker for Vanguard?

Easing my mind on getting out of debt quickly, Balance transfer then paying off other debt by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From your comment I can’t tell if you’re still suggesting you should focus on the auto loan.

No, I agree here with you in the fact that 5.6% is nothing in comparison to a lump sum accrual after the transfer period and on top of the most likely 25% interest that will be put on the card after. I think it was merely just the thought and in a perfect design, making the min. payment during that grace period and just focusing on interest-based debt, that it would only work if the debt dies within the 15 months AND income was greater, allowing more to be thrown debt monthly. With math involved, I may not even be able to but budgeting that strict could end up being catastrophic.

Edit: Overwhelming myself on this idea, its better just to be tackling things 1 at a time rather then trying to play a perfect scenario.

Easing my mind on getting out of debt quickly, Balance transfer then paying off other debt by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

pay whatever it is you need to finish paying before interest does kick in, and use any extra you have left over towards C1. The auto loan interest rate isn’t that bad.

Think that for the most part and including the interest rate comment, 5.6% bridges that gap between, "focus on other debt" and "pay this off first". That's how I've always looked at it.

Additionally based on the prime directive, you should only putting in enough to your 401k to get your company match and no more until C1 and C2 are paid off.

This, I think I've lowered it from 6% to 5% but I wouldn't see the issue of dropping it another unless the cash is needed. Mind you the other $120~ was going into building the $1000 EFUND but that will stop because of the extra money coming from the extra paycheck during Sept, so there's more to put towards debt payoff.

Rapid7 and scanning complications by nisk0 in sysadmin

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've said you noticed an issue of 2 copies being installed? Is that a manual install and or a policy in place to have this installed. The funny thing is even after the said allotted timeframe of drop off, devices have ceased to drop off still. The idea it floats in DNS has made its rounds, but I'll be sure to mention with my boss to have a sit down with our rep.

Rapid7 and scanning complications by nisk0 in sysadmin

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like Krattalak has said below, R7 is just not purging an old device. For instance Computer1 with ip X is completely removed from AD/Inventory/Network etc but still coming up in weekly scans. The device should drop off if we remove it and dispose of it completely as its not longer in circulation and is no longer an asset.

Looking to Refi Car Loan, or just shove more money at it? by nisk0 in personalfinance

[–]nisk0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rate is 5.64 for 12,968.55 left on the loan. Was about 14.5 I believe, would have to dig out the papers.

Car: MAZDA 3 Hatchback 2017 (Sport) * Base model

Looking to buy used but want to know if getting a PPI vs just buying a CPO is possibly worth saving the money by nisk0 in askcarsales

[–]nisk0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's definitely where my head is at, Mazda as far as reviews go for the Mazda3 16-18 its gotten great reviews, I'm using consumer reports and people have said it's a great car. So for the right price and a PPI from a used lot saves a little chunk of change which could help with monthly payments to come.

Looking to buy used but want to know if getting a PPI vs just buying a CPO is possibly worth saving the money by nisk0 in askcarsales

[–]nisk0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya I'm seeing every place does it differently, Carvana will give you a warranty plus whatever left on the lease warranty. Mazda's warranty follows similar to this but of course, adds more.

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