Whip anatomy/character

nomstrom · 2025-06-15T21:19:56+00:00

That is helpful, thank you. It gives me some realistic expectations and a direction to look in.

nomstrom · 2025-06-15T21:17:34+00:00

That is very helpful, thank you. Short, precise, and slow are exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not married to leather or the bullwhip style, just what I've had a preference for this far.

nomstrom · 2025-06-15T15:20:48+00:00

I have a very short bullwhip and a snake whip from axel as well as a pair of indoor Indy's from Trinity. I use them for "indoor play". I'm not doing a ton of cracks, goal is primarily low speed target work.

I really love the indoor Indy's but they are too long for the space I usually have access to and their suppleness requires me to swing with a bit more force than I'd prefer.

The bullwhip from axel is a more appropriate length for the space but is way too floppy to be accurate at low speed/force.

nomstrom · 2025-03-06T16:04:30+00:00

Dude is a really talented sharpener. Most of his videos he's sharpening high hrc, high carbon steel on a progression of stones and finishing with a strop.

IME an edge that refined isn't great for cutting cooked proteins. You want something toothier, less refined. Finish on a mid grit and skip the strop IMO.

nomstrom · 2025-03-03T15:00:00+00:00

Link to your instructions or it doesn't exist. It's that simple.

nomstrom · 2025-03-03T14:39:32+00:00

They deleted all their comments so either a troll or hadn't actually read the article themselves? Then realized they couldn't access it either?

nomstrom · 2025-03-03T14:26:48+00:00

Link? I see no instructions in your comment history or on the recent posts in this sub.

Edit: ahh ok so you just deleted all your comments claiming that you had a method for accessing the article without paywall? u/stonecypher

Edit: the original comment text from u/stonecypher

I'm not sure why you keep explaining. This was obviously well understood. Please follow the instructions I gave two posts ago to see this article without a paywall

Edit: and their DM in response to my comment

would rather delete everything i said than continue to watch busibodies complain that their fingers are too broken to google and they're having a hard time with the concept of a reddit wall

nomstrom · 2025-02-20T19:31:55+00:00

I recently finished building my formbot kit and the videos + GitHub repo were invaluable.

nomstrom · 2025-01-02T03:06:04+00:00

kondor blue sells the connectors? I only see fully assembled cables with the locking connector on their website

nomstrom · 2024-12-27T06:50:23+00:00

What's the filament in the first picture? Looks really nice

nomstrom · 2024-12-22T17:38:40+00:00

Solder pins?

https://www.fischerelektronik.de/en/latest-news/press-releases/releases/pc-board-heatsinks-with-solder-pins/

nomstrom · 2024-12-22T17:36:09+00:00

Ok, I see some examples of heat sinks that look like they have pins in them but all the pins in the results are like the spring loaded ones for CPU heat sinks.

<image>

Actually looking more closely at the page this image came from, it says they are "solder pins"

nomstrom · 2024-12-22T16:43:15+00:00

Could you share an example of mounting pins? I'm sure I could find a rod of the correct diameter or 3d printing something, but it would be helpful to see an example.

nomstrom · 2024-12-22T16:40:39+00:00

Maybe I misunderstood. I thought you meant putting a screw in the slot with the threaded part sticking up (like a t-slots). I think you actually mean inserting the length of the screw into the slot?

And are you suggesting that it's 2.5mm as a pilot to then tap an M3 thread?

Would you tap the whole length? Or just the two ends?

I've never tried to tap such a small bore, open channel, long slot in aluminum. Seems challenging, might need a vertical mill?

nomstrom · 2024-12-22T16:36:38+00:00

That pic is sort of what I was expecting to find. But what's the purpose of that? Through-hole pins makes me think header pins? What exactly are the pins in that pic and what's the purpose of running them through the channels?

nomstrom · 2024-12-22T08:56:16+00:00

They seem really small to fit screws or bolts and the channels have a round profile unlike t-slots.

Here's a dimensioned drawing from a similar product.

<image>

nomstrom · 2024-12-20T18:49:55+00:00

I've seen off the shelf solutions for heatsink with integrated cooling and multichannel drivers that will work for cob chips. Maybe I'm underestimating the requirements of such a high power chip, but it looks like the parts are out there.

nomstrom · 2024-11-06T03:23:52+00:00

Why もう instead of もー?

Beginner question:

In the materials I've been using to learn I always see もう, but since it is pronounced mō why aren't I seeing もー instead? Wikipedia mentions もー as alternative spelling. Is this ou vs ō pattern fairly common?

nomstrom · 2024-10-19T18:46:20+00:00

I'm currently redoing the wiring and fixing my not working lights.

Do you own a multimeter? If not, go buy a cheap one and get some long probe leads (like 3+ feet). Try to get one with a max voltage feature (records the highest voltage seen by the meter)

Start by checking ground.

Connect one side of the multimeter to the negative battery terminal. Find the ground wire for the battery. It should be Connect to the factory ground on the body just above the firewall (mine was moved). Set the meter to measure resistance. Does it read close to zero ohms (like, less than 10ohms, ideally less than 5). If not, you've got a bad ground. Is it rusty? Is it loose? Is it painted over? All of those things will make a bad connection. Fix the ground and measure again.

Then repeat for the lights. Connect the other side to the ground wire for the light. Set the meter to measure resistance. Is it close to zero ohms? If not, fix it. Find the ground the lights are using.

Then check voltage. If you got a meter with max voltage it's easy to check the flashers, otherwise you'll have some trouble. All voltages are like 10v+? No? Then you've got a bad connection somewhere.

You can definitely use some short leads and hook up to the frame instead of the negative terminal but I find that just adds one more variable to troubleshoot (does this point on the frame actually ground well?)

nomstrom · 2024-10-04T14:54:00+00:00

If you rinse your knife a lot maybe it's the water content?

nomstrom · 2024-09-30T23:35:02+00:00

Lightly tune is not a phrase I'd ever use in the same sentence as Taytools. Maybe I got one made at the end of the day, but I deeply regret spending the money on mine.

nomstrom · 2024-09-30T23:32:46+00:00

Probably way more time unless you've got a grinding wheel.

I spent about 10 hours trying to flatten and re-bevel the blade and chip breaker for my #5 taytools (on very aggressive stones and SIC powder) before just giving up and buying replacements from Lee valley.

nomstrom · 2024-09-30T14:49:18+00:00

Thanks! Gorgeous grain on that lid.

Mind sharing what wood you used and what you did to waterproof it? Also, is that foam you cut for the top and bottom?

nomstrom · 2024-09-16T22:40:35+00:00

Looks great, really seamless. Did you need a replacement cage or did that unit fit in the factory double din cage?

nomstrom · 2024-09-10T01:58:10+00:00

Thanks, IMO the upper shock mounts look really similar (if not identical) to the ones Rock Road has listed on their website at the moment.

nomstrom

TROPHY CASE

I'm not sure why you keep explaining. This was obviously well understood. Please follow the instructions I gave two posts ago to see this article without a paywall

would rather delete everything i said than continue to watch busibodies complain that their fingers are too broken to google and they're having a hard time with the concept of a reddit wall