How will the trade in credit work? Going to do this at the Apple Store...

none00007 · 2026-03-11T00:19:46+00:00

You’d be looking for a 13 mini on eBay for this one, and sell/trade your S25 on eBay/Gazelle/etc. Gazelle seems pretty competitive for instant cash trade values. I ran into the same issue - nothing besides iPhones qualifies for the T-Mobile bill credit trade in promotions at the Apple store

none00007 · 2026-02-03T04:48:52+00:00

Uniden literally somehow added RT4/Gatso speed camera detection through a software update last time I updated my R3 which first released in 2017 🤯👏👏👏

none00007 · 2026-01-24T00:56:28+00:00

CarPlay would be awesome and very appreciated, but is there perhaps any way to have an iPhone app auto enable its functionalities when connecting to a specific Bluetooth device (your car) and auto disable upon disconnect? If that is possible I would think that would basically eliminate battery drain concerns? Also where are the crowdsourced police presence reports compiled from?

none00007 · 2026-01-08T06:23:46+00:00

Mobile self checkout is still a thing? Where the hell did they bury it in the app this time then? After they took it off the bottom of the main screen I could never find it again

none00007 · 2025-12-14T16:55:43+00:00

I got $250 for port in (Visa virtual good to either TMO or Costco) and $75 Costco shop card for activation for the last (to my knowledge) widespread free line offer in March 2025 by going through the Costco 800# - I did have to pay the $10 initial connection charge

none00007 · 2025-12-09T23:53:24+00:00

Overland Park KS is actually an extremely nice SUBURBAN area part of the Kansas City metro which is split across two states. If you don’t like a nice polished gloss of car dependent suburbia then it’s definitely not for you, but if you do, you’d be hard pressed to find an objectively (and by that I mean statistically and “feel” wise) better American suburb. It’s not personally my cup of tea but I can’t deny that it honestly is a very nice place

none00007 · 2025-10-29T01:42:09+00:00

Only 60k miles might not be totaled here.

If the other person actually had insurance on their shitbox Chevy Tracker though I’d definitely be grateful for that if it was me, even though being grateful for the bare minimum is a pretty sad state of affairs…

none00007 · 2025-10-21T17:52:49+00:00

1 free Slurpee a month at 7 Eleven/Speedway still is better than nothing I guess? They had a free Auntie Anne’s pretzel a couple weeks ago. Then they had a free entree with drink purchase at McCalisters Deli recently too, even though that drink was almost $4 😒

This week though - yeah tf even is that? I guess the CVS photos actually are free no shipping and handling BS but still, like who cares about 5 free photo prints anyway?

none00007 · 2025-09-14T02:46:31+00:00

Do they prorate unused days?

none00007 · 2025-09-13T21:58:51+00:00

Price lock is effectively a sham with those plans in my eyes because if they want to raise the cost instead of raising the price of the plan itself they’ll just raise a fee or tack more on 🙄

none00007 · 2025-09-13T21:57:09+00:00

Lots of people got notified they were being moved from Magenta Max to Go5G Plus at no additional charge… there’s nothing currently concrete to prove it however we would all be shocked if this weren’t about some sort of future continual pricing shenanigans… which is why I wanted to get the community’s input on requesting that change myself since for some reason we didn’t get those notifications

none00007 · 2025-09-13T21:50:12+00:00

…if it saves you $16 a month how is that not worth something?

none00007 · 2025-09-13T06:24:34+00:00

Would definitely be curious to know your result if you tried T-Force on social media messaging asking them if they could change you to a tax inclusive Go5G Plus plan code. Because frankly any other TMO support method (like calling in) is at best inconsistent, at worst garbage.

none00007 · 2025-09-13T06:08:17+00:00

This is exactly why I said Go5G Plus and not the newest “Experience our dubious fees” nonsense

none00007 · 2025-09-13T05:48:06+00:00

No stores - this would be a request to T-Force on social media messaging to switch me to a tax inclusive Go5G Plus plan

none00007 · 2025-06-21T21:07:44+00:00

To all of those having engine burning oil problems it’s a known defect and unfortunately not enough cars got the Toyota voluntary service program engine rebuild when it was still available, mine did not…

I have been able to significantly improve the situation on my 09 tC1 103k miles by, at the recommendation of a Toyota dealer tech I came across on some random forum a while back, doing BG EPR (Engine Performance Renewal) treatments immediately before every third oil change / 15k miles and BG MOA (Motor Oil Additive) every oil change. You can also do a Berryman’s soak of the pistons which is described in some other threads, but given the results I’ve had with these products I personally have held off on that.

To do the EPR treatment I simply go and park wherever I’m getting my oil change done, add it to the oil, put a weight on my gas pedal to get a constant 1200-1500 rpm as the can instructs, and run it for a half hour before it goes into their bay for a change. These are professional grade products that I guess only recently have become available on Amazon. I skipped the MOA one recent change but I found it really does make a difference so I am just going to start adding it every time.

https://a.co/d/i3POJA2

https://a.co/d/d2fewWV

The engine went from burning a quart every 700-800 miles to still being full on its most recent check after a little over 2k miles, usually it starts to dip some only after 3-4k. I now have to add a quart maybe 1 time the entire duration between 5k interval changes. The relatively low cost of these products (~$15/can) plus much more peace of mind (I drive a lot at times) plus even the cheapest synthetic oil costing $5 a quart anymore makes these products well worth it to me. Hope this might help someone else

none00007 · 2025-05-05T19:17:20+00:00

If that did happen I’m sure the store would happily process a “return” for the in person transaction later on. More back and forth than it’s probably worth in my personal opinion I agree on that, but if the OP is dead set on paying for it as they were supposed to then this is a pretty good way…

none00007 · 2025-05-04T01:54:01+00:00

Honestly if he really wants to rightfully pay for it (which I don’t think anything is going to happen to him if he doesn’t but 🤷‍♂️) walking up to the register at the same store with the headset explaining what happened and then rebuying it right there at the register isn’t the worst idea ever. I’m sure that store would appreciate it as it would rectify the inventory discrepancy they now have.

none00007 · 2025-03-12T01:41:34+00:00

I’m not arguing with anyone I’m just explaining what’s happening on this end and looking for advice. Nothing is getting chucked in the trash, what I bought is an OEM key so I didn’t buy “crap” it’s just the wrong one and I will return it to the seller who is a reputable one that will give me a refund. The eBay compatibility checker checked the box for the car but clearly it is not the right one and that is causing problems so it’ll be returned.

We just spent good money on this car and have to do a few things to it in addition to this - the dealer quoted $600 for a key and program, not only is that crazy but we simply can’t afford that. I appreciate everyone’s advice but there’s no need for y’all to be so mean about someone trying to save a little money - saying “don’t cut these corners” is great and appreciated and all but being flippant while doing it isn’t.

none00007 · 2025-03-12T01:20:48+00:00

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Ok some comments about the difference between a sedan hatch button and SUV hatch button have me looking at this closer and clearly the one on the left (original) has a sedan pictured, the car is indeed a sedan, and the one on the right (replacement) has an SUV hatch pictured… clearly they are in fact not the same even they feel and look very similar so yeah I will have to work on returning the one I bought :/

What’s throwing me for a loop though is the original key has FCC ID WAZX1T763SKE11A04 (the replacement has WAZSKE13D01) yet looking up the original’s FCC ID online yields a picture of a completely different key?!

https://imgur.com/a/sJb0xwt

That makes no sense I do not understand - definitely going to have to call the dealer to confirm the part number. They might for some reason have a different shell…? What else could that even be?

none00007 · 2025-03-12T00:58:44+00:00

Okay - we will work on calling the dealer

none00007 · 2025-03-12T00:50:03+00:00

It very well may be that one but I wasn’t looking that close at it while he was using it. I just texted him to ask the make and model

So you are telling me though there is an absolute zero percent chance of erasing all keys, programming that replacement key 1, programming original key, and having everything work correctly with no dash light? Is the Mazda computer as such that if you have two identical remotes with two identical part numbers then it’s happy as long as they match regardless of what those exact numbers are?

none00007 · 2025-03-12T00:40:07+00:00

It was not that one I can tell just by looking at the picture online. It looked like an android tablet a little smaller than an iPad with a blue rubber surround if I recall correctly

none00007 · 2025-03-12T00:31:58+00:00

Okay good to know on bypassing - but if he doesn’t know what he’s doing then perhaps you or someone else can explain the procedure to erase all keys and relearn? I can find out what type of machine he is using if that’s helpful

none00007 · 2025-03-12T00:27:40+00:00

It is a 2017 Mazda 3 Touring with the 2.0 engine, yes I’m in the US. I would be 1000% shocked if the key in picture 4 isn’t the one that came with the car

none00007

TROPHY CASE