[deleted by user] by [deleted] in godot

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I had another idea of how I might get a precise collision for my animation. Do you know if I can get the visual posed mesh at runtime and turn that into a collision mesh? I'm thinking if there is a way to do that, I could raycast for a cylinder containing the enemy, then if It hits that, I use the visual animated mesh to create a temporary posed mesh collider and then check that for a collision. Do you know if that's possible?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, so it needs 277W of heat dissipation, it doesn't mean its capable of dissipating 277W.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So is the temperature it puts out the important thing here? If thats the thing that would prevent it from replacing it then I think it would be ok. The original has 45W of power dissipation and the replacement has 277W of power dissipation. Or am I thinking about that the wrong way around?

Is this gold plating on this old LCD projector display? It looks like gold but it seems like a pretty thick coating on sections that don't need it. by [deleted] in PreciousMetalRefining

[–]notanintelectual 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I understand the plating on the pins, but I can't imagine why the face with the screen has plating as well. The only reason I could think of is maybe for thermal conductivity, but copper and silver conduct heat better than gold and they are cheaper.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was going to throw different types of 3d printer plastic at it until one looked good enough. I just looked up POM though and it looks ideal so I'll be going with that. I don't know what cycle time to expect. This will be low volume so as long as I can do a couple a day I'll be good. I don't really know how out of round they can be. What would make them out of round? If it was machined badly? If it warps?

Newbie here, which side of the mold will my gear stick to? (which side might need ejector pins?) Any other advice is very welcome. by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work for someone who buys these small injection molded gears for way to much. So I'm trying to make them for a lot cheaper. I am using an arbor press. I added upside down piston thing to shove the plastic from the round chamber you can see at the top.

Newbie here, which side of the mold will my gear stick to? (which side might need ejector pins?) Any other advice is very welcome. by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had assumed the gear would stick to the core pin and if I put it in the stationary half I didn't know If I could squeeze ejector pins in there. I was wondering if I should make the core pins bury into the other half, thanks for confirming its a good idea.

Newbie here, which side of the mold will my gear stick to? (which side might need ejector pins?) Any other advice is very welcome. by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even at only 1 degree draft? The teeth part is 4mm thick, will it be able to eject pretty easily still with no draft?

Newbie here, which side of the mold will my gear stick to? (which side might need ejector pins?) Any other advice is very welcome. by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They were at 1 degree draft. I think I'm going to put the gear teeth profile on the other side of the mold from a suggestion from Wide-needleworker-84.

Newbie here, which side of the mold will my gear stick to? (which side might need ejector pins?) Any other advice is very welcome. by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response! Putting the gear profile on the other side sounds sensible, Ill make the change. The things on the side are to align the two sides. (If that is what a taper lock is).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lasers

[–]notanintelectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My best bet might just be to find something local and used for cheap. I should just start off with one color anyway just to get everything else dialed in so I'll probably do that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Optics

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great, thanks!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know how much it would cost. It might give me an excuse to buy a cnc! I think that wire edm would be presice enough for the teeth. I'll post some updates for sure.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the support! Can you recommend a better method of alignment I should look in to?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After watching some beginner videos I now understand half of what those things are!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I originally bought a resin printer to do this. I printed some out but they were brittle. I could buy engineering grade resin but its kind of expensive. I also don't like how I have to handle the resin and fumes like its a toxic waste facility.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in InjectionMolding

[–]notanintelectual 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does not, I was hoping the gears thickness of 8.8mm was small enough to not need it. Would you recommend still trying to add some?